2003 Reg Cab Full System Install - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 04-28-2011
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2003 Reg Cab Full System Install

Started the build tonight. Interior is jussssst about completely out. I wasn't planning on starting tonight buttttttttt it just happened. :)

Here is the plan.

1) H/U Kenwood KDC-X994 (hoping to receive in May for birthday, if not this may change WAITING TEMPORARY SETUP IS CRAPPY INSIGNIA H/U left over from another project
2) Deaden and seal doors and back wall with e45 and v4 IN PROCESS
3) 1/0 power/ground to a distro for two amps WIRING RUN EXCEPT DISTRO WIRES
4) Front Stage eD 6500's HAVE
5) Front Stage Amp Avionixx 640 WAITING TEMPORARY SETUP IS ORION 265xp
6) Sub Stage 13Av.2 downfiring at an angle ported in 2.2 at 28Hz TBD TEMPORARY SETUP IS 16Ov.2 PORTED
7) Sub Stage Amp Digital Designs M.80 HAVE
8) Door lock actuators with keyless DONE

Tonight I got the front stage wiring run from the amp spot and through the door grommets. Tomorrow I should have the power wires run.

Any questions let me know.

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Is 10awg overkill for my front stage??
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Last edited by Joeybutts; 05-01-2011 at 11:13 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2011
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Doesn't look too bad. That 10g is a little ridiculous though for your front stage.
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerboy101 View Post
Doesn't look too bad. That 10g is a little ridiculous though for your front stage.
Trust me, if I didn't get it at the price I got it, it wouldn't be in use for my front stage, but this truck allows me a much better SQ build than my convertible so don't mind a little overkill.

Wait till you see the enclosure part of the build. I love bracing.
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  #4  
Old 04-29-2011
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KnuKonceptz FTW
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2011
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Was moving right along before I was interrupted by a dishwasher emergency and had to stop. Would have had a fair amount of deadening done.

Power wire ready. Just needs a fuse.

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Remote wire ready for an add-a-fuse.
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All wires to amps location.
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Stock H/U out and RCA's run
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Under glovebox.
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Passenger kick.
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Let's see what happens tomorrow! :D
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2011
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Lookin good! i'm subscribed, this looks like a fun install.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2011
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I run a std cab too, interested to see where this goes.
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2011
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Looks like its gonna be a real clean install. I also am looking forward to where your headed wih this. I've got a reg cab too.
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Old 04-30-2011
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Looks to be clean. Are you going to clean up the passenger side wires? Or hide them somehow?
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2011
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wow... ij ust put mine in a week ago. and i ran all my wires the exact same as u did bro.
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  #11  
Old 05-01-2011
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I like how everything is coming along!
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2011
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Thanks a lot fellas! Everything is going well. Got power keyless door locks in this weekend and also started the deadening. Pics to come, just don't have the tie right now.

Yes Adam! wires will be clean and hidden. Shouldn't even know there is a system in the truck unless you spot the tweeters and look behind the seats.
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Old 05-01-2011
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this looks like its going to be very clean. subscribed.
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Old 05-01-2011
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You mentioned sound deadening, did you do the floor ?
I found when I did the floor a lot of road and gear noise went away.

Keep posting the progress.
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  #15  
Old 05-01-2011
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No, I was not planning on doing the floor, but will consider it in the future as I won't have enough deadener to do that as well. The doors and back wall will be thoroughly deadened and the doors sealed as well. Hopefully I have the full interior back in the truck by Wed.

I'm going to have to listen when I am driving it soon to see if I hear anything through the floor. I haven't noticed any gear or excessive road noise, but I may have just overlooked it.

I miss driving my Ranger. :)
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
No, I was not planning on doing the floor, but will consider it in the future as I won't have enough deadener to do that as well. The doors and back wall will be thoroughly deadened and the doors sealed as well. Hopefully I have the full interior back in the truck by Wed.

I'm going to have to listen when I am driving it soon to see if I hear anything through the floor. I haven't noticed any gear or excessive road noise, but I may have just overlooked it.

I miss driving my Ranger. :)
I couldn’t believe the before and after cab noise when I did the floor; who would’ve thunk there was that much coming through the floor, really quiet.
I now have the cab deadened (floor, back under window and sides, but not the doors or roof, I am waiting to get to the speakers for the doors but not sure when and if the roof will do anything.
I have never done doors before they look like a PITA.
Time will tell.
Do you have pics of the door deadening, I can put up a pic on the floor if you are interested ?
also, are you using speaker pockets or what ever they are called, the foam cups that go over the speakers, yes or no and way if possible ?

Thanks,ltr
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2011
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Deadening the doors isn't too bad, but just takes time to prep, cut, stick, etc etc. But man does that with sealing the doors make a HUGE difference. Truck sounds/feels solid closing the doors now.

I did bang on the floor a little bit and think I am going to deaden the highest flat floor areas and up under the seats, but not the floor boards.

I do not use foam baffles for speakers, I seal the doors. 95% of component coaxial speakers are intended to be used IB or in an EXTREMELY large sealed enclosure. By sealing the doors you accomplish two things; one you separate the front wave from the back wave more effectively, and two increase the ever coveted and important mid-bass. I'll be doing that some time this week so stay tuned for that, lots of different ways to accomplish that. Will the foam pods help, maybe, but I have never liked the response from using them and I don't have the resources for proper equalization.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2011
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Well! A lot done since last build post.

First is Saturday's activities.

Pat slaving on the keyless door locks.
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Wires run (blue and green) for actuators and you can just make out the actuator in the door hole all the way to the right.
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Doors deadened. One full layer for the entire door, two layers on the front half of the door, three layers behind the driver and two layers of v4 behind the driver.
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Pizza boxes make for great cutting boards of deadener. :p
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Back wall deadened. This greatly helped. Two layers on the high points.
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Using factory speaker as a template for mid baffles.
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Using 1/2" MDF for the baffles pushed out the driver JUST too far, so I trimmed the inside of the door panel grill and now there is perfect clearance. Took some time with my dremel to not screw this up.
Inside the door
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Inside the cabin
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Back on the door.
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Mid mounted in the baffle.
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Tweeters mounted up today as well. Should have the components up and running tomorrow!
Tweeters pushed in and hotglued in the sail panels.
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View from the dash of the tweeter.
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View from the seats.
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Back on the door!
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That's where we currently stand! Tomorrow the crossovers go in the doors, comps get wired, and head unit is installed! Amp will be hooked up and running but not officially installed....
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Old 05-02-2011
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Whoo, looks like some fun. that wiring is a mess, i've only been in there a couple of times for my truck. it just gives me a headache.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
Deadening the doors isn't too bad, but just takes time to prep, cut, stick, etc etc. But man does that with sealing the doors make a HUGE difference. Truck sounds/feels solid closing the doors now.

I did bang on the floor a little bit and think I am going to deaden the highest flat floor areas and up under the seats, but not the floor boards.

I do not use foam baffles for speakers, I seal the doors. 95% of component coaxial speakers are intended to be used IB or in an EXTREMELY large sealed enclosure. By sealing the doors you accomplish two things; one you separate the front wave from the back wave more effectively, and two increase the ever coveted and important mid-bass. I'll be doing that some time this week so stay tuned for that, lots of different ways to accomplish that. Will the foam pods help, maybe, but I have never liked the response from using them and I don't have the resources for proper equalization.

Thanks on the info.

While the seats are out it is easier to just pick up the carpet and do it.
Dyna Mat is $$$ so doing the whole floor is a lot of money.
I used FatMat, worked great and cost less.
Ok on the Pods, thks.
Wow, all of the disassembly, a lot of work for good sounds.

The Tweeter Location is approximately where I wanted to put mine so thanks for the pic on that one.

Look’n good.

ltr
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  #21  
Old 05-03-2011
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Alex, it definitely can be, but a little planning and some time for searching usually does the trick. Thank the Lord for color-coding!

DEFINITELY easier to do it with the seats out. I'm probably going to order the materials today so they are hear before the weekend. I only used the dynamat because it was left over from another install I did for someone. It is CRAZY expensive compared, but I will say it is quite quality.

A heads up on the tweeter location. There is a slide post behind the sail panel, and I contemplated cutting it off to fit the tweeter better. It would have looked better lowered about 1/2" but decided to go with the slightly less aesthetically pleasing location. The reason I say less aesthetically pleasing is that I don't have the trim rings for fluch mounting so you can see from the seats the slight gap between the seat of the tweeter and the sail and also you can see the edges of the tweeter grill, but that doesn't bother me too much. I think I am going to fabricate covers from the angle mounts I have, but that is going to take some time and precision and can be done with no disassembly, so I'll make that a last priority.
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  #22  
Old 05-03-2011
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Well, the plug for my temporary Front Stage amp didn't arrive yet, so no sound yet, but everything else is done to produce sound. I didn't get to seal the doors either but that is 20 min before deadening so no issues.

Dash kit and wiring harness made it at the perfect time...today!
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Temporary H/U in great aesthetic and mechanical shape. Not bad for $35.
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Dash back together! Looks good! Not as good as the Kenwood I plan on getting but nice for temporary. Has an aux in and plays MP3's and WMA's so a basic set of goodies....
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Time to install the crossovers! Adding spades to the 10awg instead of trying to stuff 10lbs in a 5lb bag. Crimped and soldered.
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This is the driver's side door crossover. I put some v4 behind the crossover so there is no rattling. Just in case. :)
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All parts wired up.
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With door panel on. Don't mind the toes. :p
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Fused distro in on the small 1/0 with 100A for sub stage and 80A for front stage. Tsunami cut back on the quality of their products cause I have an older version of this model and it is much nicer, much more stout and the cover was more to my liking, but this will work just fine.
Without cover
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With cover
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Eager to get things done!!!
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Also, anybody know what the hell this washer is? It could be completely random, it could be for something, I have no idea. I can't see anywhere it could go. It doesn't fit on the window crank anywhere...sooooo.....could just be garbage. I did buy the truck used. It's about the size of a quarter.
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So what's next?! Amp plug needs to come in, tomorrow hopefully, build a quick dirty amp rack since this front stage amp is temporary, and build the temporary enclosure for the 16Ov.2. Hopefully that is only a one night activity.
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  #23  
Old 05-04-2011
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I wish I could see the pics. I think I'm going to redo pretty much everything in mine this summer. I know for a fact I'll be running the two sa-15's and I'll either be getting an Audiopipe 3k or I'll run my MB Quart for a little while. I am def going to get new RCA's though. I got these Stinger pro series and they straight up SUCK. I like my crappy Schosche ones better. Anyways... good luck on the box build haha
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2011
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Can you not see them due to a filter or are they blocked?

I have used Tsunami and Knu RCA's and never had an issue. Check those out if you like.

I'm eager for my buddy to get his SA-8's in to check those out, I've only messed with the E8.v2s.
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Old 05-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
Started the build tonight. Interior is jussssst about completely out. I wasn't planning on starting tonight buttttttttt it just happened. :)

Here is the plan.

1) H/U Kenwood KDC-X994
2) Deaden and seal doors and back wall
3) 1/0 power/ground to a distro for two amps
4) Front Stage eD 6500's HAVE
5) Front Stage Amp Avionixx 640
6) Sub Stage 13Av.2 downfiring at an angle ported in 2.2 at 28Hz
7) Sub Stage Amp Digital Designs M.80 HAVE
8) Door lock actuators with keyless DONE

Tonight I got the front stage wiring run from the amp spot and through the door grommets. Tomorrow I should have the power wires run.
Any questions let me know.
You seem to have you $hit together but I was wonder if you made the decision on what to use with what ?
Is there a Site to go to that will actually tell you about what will work together or give an honest opinion on what you want to run without looking at their inventories and trying to sell what they have ?

I talked to Crutchfield and they want to sell you what they have.
SonicElectronics is lower prices but they too do the same thing.
6th Ave only tried to sell me what they had but from my list so that isn’t as bad.

Keep the picture coming and the data, it all looks good and the info is a great help.

ltr
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