2003 Reg Cab Full System Install - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 05-04-2011
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Yes, I decided on what I would like to use. I was trying to keep this as a somewhat budget build but somethings you have to do or are just better. Just like building a house you want to make sure your foundation is strong, in this case your power and source, so I spend a little more on my power wires and signal wires and eventually my h/u, but I look for quality used a lot of times. Just about everything in this install was left overs from other installs or second hand equipment. Also, make sure to try and route signals away from power wires. Some times it can't be avoided but generally solid grounds help eliminate issues.

A lot of what you are going to choose depends on what your goals are, in this build I was leaning a little more toward SQ than SPL. All speakers will get loud, question is how much distortion is present. An easy way to tell if something is playing clean is if you think you can speak to someone in a normal speaking voice and realize they can't hear you. Distortion is what causes us to perceive things as loud.

This system should still get to high 130's in that little truck easy. My buddy's quad cab ram with the same sub stage did around a 138 if I remember correctly on a bit more power than I will be running. So it will be loud, but the difference is that the 138 will be at 30-40hz, not 45-60. Though it seems like a small difference, the feeling is unreal. I'm ecstatic for it.

If you need help choosing equipment, I'd be glad to help, but I stay away from many mainstream companies with the exception of a few products from each. Just depends on what you are looking to achieve from your system. Choosing product comes down to understanding what each thing is capable of and comes back to the building a house analogy every time. A lot of power isn't necessary to get loud if you know how to design it.

I honestly would tell you to never converse with sales people on audio. Those people generally don't have half the knowledge people on forums do. Some of the fellas here on this board seem to know their stuff.

I love build logs so no worries on the pics and info. Just ask!
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  #27  
Old 05-04-2011
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Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
Can you not see them due to a filter or are they blocked?

I have used Tsunami and Knu RCA's and never had an issue. Check those out if you like.

I'm eager for my buddy to get his SA-8's in to check those out, I've only messed with the E8.v2s.
I couldn't see them because of my schools filter. Your buddy will love that sa-8.
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  #28  
Old 05-07-2011
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Doors sealed, just need to throw on the deadener. 16O enclosure just about done. Only bad part was that I am out of cash and had to use 1/2" MDF. I'm praying it stays together till July. If not, I'll just build another when I get paid.....
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2011
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haha you get on this forum at school to tyler? this site is what im on for like 2 classes a day ha
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  #30  
Old 05-08-2011
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haha you get on this forum at school to tyler? this site is what im on for like 2 classes a day ha
Yea I was supposed to be writing an English paper. Decided R-F was more important.
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  #31  
Old 05-08-2011
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Yea I was supposed to be writing an English paper. Decided R-F was more important.
i cant get on it at school sometimes either. they have a program called SMARTsync. they can block every website but blackboard. i cant figure out a way to get around it
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  #32  
Old 05-09-2011
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ha i go to a technical school for automotive. so im "just learnig a few things" if anyone ask lol
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  #33  
Old 05-09-2011
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Both doors are now sealed, passenger is completely deadened and done. I hate that Ford does the little hanger clips so you have to either deal with the hanger holes being left open or doing way too much work for the benefit. Only two noises come from the doors when the stereo is playing/closing the door; the grill in front of the speaker buzzes because i cut out the grooves, and closing the door the lock pin rattles eveeeeeer so slightly. Otherwise, not a peep from the doors.
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16O enclosure done! I made the mistake of thinking it would be ok to add some height to the front, which totally screwed up how far back I can put the seat. Thankfully this is a temporary enclosure, I can't be riding like a grandma on top of the steering wheel. So I need to rebuild the enclosure at the end of this month maybe.
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The 16O is RIDICULOUS. I can't say it enough. Unreal. If I had a D2 16O instead of a D4, I can't imagine. The only noise I really get when wanging on it is the sliding window buzzing. If I open it there is no noise and I don't lose much in terms of perceived SPL. Low end kills. Can't believe it. Can't believe how it destroys down low. Knights of Cydonia Dubstep is UNREAL.

Decisions, decisions.
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  #34  
Old 05-09-2011
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Progress is still looking good. Interested to see the final product!
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  #35  
Old 05-09-2011
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Looks great. a note about the door hangers, You can get a thin piece of plastic sheeting or something and slip that in over the hangers. Thats how most came from the factory, with a plastic piece between the door and door panel.
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  #36  
Old 05-10-2011
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Thanks fellas. Both doors are now completely sealed and deadened. I didn't take pics as it was the same thing as the passenger side.

Alex, thanks for the tip. I think I am going to use some foam gasket tape and make rings around the hangers to see if that helps, but that will be when I have nothing else to do. :p

I'll take some pics of the temporary enclosure and the disaster of wiring and amps right now as it sits. Hopefully I can do the amp rack this weekend. I've had a horrible set back as far as woodworking goes so things might take some time to get completed.
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  #37  
Old 05-12-2011
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I was hoping to have the final enclosure done tonight but got a CRAZY late start; had to stay late at work. So port is done and in and the baffle is almost done. Definitely done on Saturday.

Here are some pics of current state! Port is attached at both the back wall and also the exterior side wall. I also flanged in the port to insure no leakage.
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:)
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  #38  
Old 05-13-2011
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Did you do anything else to make the Cross-Over network Module fit.

You have it mounted under the door handle in one of your pics, was just wondering if you did anything to the panel or did you cover the module with anything, etc ?

thks
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  #39  
Old 05-13-2011
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Nope! It fit perfect in that spot. I'd say it is...4x6? Also, I bought the component set used from a buddy and he had lost the covers, but I did not cover them with anything. I contemplated covering them. They are in a location that seems will never see moisture unless something epic happens. and if they do go I paid next to nothing for them.
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  #40  
Old 05-14-2011
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New box is done and now that it is done, think I want to revise it one more time just for fitment reasons, not for auditory reasons. As far as output goes, OMG. between the front stage and the substage it is David and Goliath and Goliath slaughtered David. Also, I need a D2 16O to get more power out of the M.80. There is still more left in the tank for the 16O which is a real scary thought.

It also sounds very nice when it isn't slapping against the back of the cabinet. I'm going to eventually L-bracket the enclosure to the back wall and hopefully that takes care of it. It's nice to have low end even when the volume is extremely low.

Old box in the truck.
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Amp/wiring disaster
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New box in the truck.
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Amps cleaned up too.
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Thought a piece of V4 would help calm the box/back of cab rattling. Wrong. WRONG.
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Box done.
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Foamed the 8 gauge power wires so no rattling.
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Batting in, but thinking I may add some moooooooooorrrrrrre.
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Loaded.
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Last edited by Joeybutts; 05-15-2011 at 07:21 AM.
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  #41  
Old 05-15-2011
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how far forward is your seat?
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  #42  
Old 05-16-2011
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Pretty far. if you are 5'10', you're cramped, if you are 6', you have to of been in the circus to drive my truck. :p I'm 5'8', comfortable, but could use an extra inch or two.

I do plan on doing one more rendition later this year. I've rushed these two and made some small mistakes that have compromised space. The next one will give full use of the passenger seat and the driver seat will fit the farthest away position for me to drive comfortably.
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  #43  
Old 05-17-2011
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i see your "snap-on" seat. ive got a ratchet and a set of sockets for $153. a deal the guy said lol. i cant imagine what the seat cost you
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  #44  
Old 05-18-2011
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Bass over comfort is the way to be. Let the bass drop. Looks good.
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  #45  
Old 05-18-2011
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i see your "snap-on" seat. ive got a ratchet and a set of sockets for $153. a deal the guy said lol. i cant imagine what the seat cost you
hahahahahahah. It took me about 3 minutes to figure out what you were referencing! Because that isn't mine. I was over at my future-brother-in-laws working. He has some Snap-on tools and paraphernalia and whenever the topic comes up he doesn't think it's worth it.

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Bass over comfort is the way to be. Let the bass drop. Looks good.
It isn't too bad. I'm finding the only bad part is comfortably turning the wheel. One more redesign though and I should be back to normal.
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  #46  
Old 05-18-2011
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Being a non-audiophile, home hacker type… why so big on the box ?

Just me but I would think a little smaller wouldn’t hurt so where does the size vs space come in, again novice here !

I take it every speaker has a certain enclosure size that makes it work correctly ?

thks
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  #47  
Old 05-18-2011
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Wow I can't imagine driving that thing. lol Looks like its still coming along well though!
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  #48  
Old 05-18-2011
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Being a non-audiophile, home hacker type… why so big on the box ?

Just me but I would think a little smaller wouldn’t hurt so where does the size vs space come in, again novice here !

I take it every speaker has a certain enclosure size that makes it work correctly ?

thks
it's a ported box, not sealed, which means it's going to be a larger box than the same sub in a sealed box
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  #49  
Old 05-19-2011
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Being a non-audiophile, home hacker type… why so big on the box ?

Just me but I would think a little smaller wouldn’t hurt so where does the size vs space come in, again novice here !

I take it every speaker has a certain enclosure size that makes it work correctly ?

thks
Every sub has certain airspace requirements dependent on it's T/S parameters and what you want it do/sound like. For 99% of subs, the smaller the driver the smaller the space needed, so trying to shoehorn a 15", obviously more space was required.

I went with 2.5 cubes as it is the largest recommended space and will allow for a bit more efficiency while keeping the response flat, and tuned it a bit lower to protect the driver and because I listen to a lot of dubstep/electronic/chopped and screwed and hip/hop.

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Wow I can't imagine driving that thing. lol Looks like its still coming along well though!
The only upside to being 5'7"! (5'8" on a good day )
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  #50  
Old 06-07-2011
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Joeybutts… where’s the pics ?
All of your pictures are missing…

Also, I was looking in the shop and found the deadening material is used, it wasn’t FatMat it was BeQuiet.
Less expensive than the others and man does it reduce the road noise and make my OEM system sound better.
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