in my 2007 ranger, pertaining to the standard radio fuses, and the wire diagram; there are three. numbers 22, 6 and 24. i am wondering what each of these fuse's purposes are. there is nothing wrong with the system, tho i am replacing the factory radio for more features. thank you.

 

Fuse 6 powers the radio, it should have 12volts when key is in RUN or in ACC
Fuse 22 only has 12v when key is in START, it should MUTE the Ford radio
Fuse 25 should have 12v all the time, it powers clock and holds radio Pre-sets, does not power radio at all or battery would drain

 

okay, so is 22 just for mute??

Then if i dont care about clock or presets, am i fine going without 25??

It seems that 6 may be all thats required for operation through fuses.

 

You just need fuse 6, 10amp, for radio to operate, as far as I know

But fuse 25 is 20amp so I assume its used for other things
Fuse 22 is 5amp so may just be for radio Mute

In a higher end audio systems I see a separate amplifier that would have full time power, so maybe the basic unit needs fuse 25 for it's internal amplifier, AND clock/presets, just have to test and see

 

okay then. i will test these things and see.

also, according to connector 290A, the radio has three ground connections. why does it need three?? they are pins 2 11 and 16. the diagram looks like its showing pin 2 may be main ground. if it is, what and why are the other two for/needed?? --at least in regards to an after market radio. grounds may be different in the factory am fm radio. those other two are also called "Generic logical type 3 audio/entertainment".

 

Well there is almost always a separate ground for the back lights, i.e. dimmable dash lights

Then a 12volt/ground

Not sure on why they need a 3rd, but never seen one compliant about having one too many grounds, lol, one to few YES but never one too many

 

Okay, but what do the back and dash lights hafta do with radio fuses??🤔

 

You were talking about Grounds not fuses in last post

 

Grounds for the radio. Not lights.😁

 

OK, but the radio head unit has 1 ground for back lights

and then 2 grounds for radio unit, I would imagine one is for the power supply ground and the other for the chassis, metal case and circuits inside

 

Alright thank you. I think ill just go with the one my new radio requires and pull the two other pins.

 

alright, my new radio has two channel subwoofer output, for left and right. i only have one subwoofer, being one speaker. would i need to do a bridge connection? negative wire from one output and positive wire from the other? this radio has its own internal amplifier and subwoofer connection is possible without an amplifier. it has four channel output at the wire harness, 55 watts each at four ohms. there is a separate subwoofer out too, but in 'stereo' mode by R C A ports. i only have one speaker, and it is four ohms with 50 watts continuous power. resonance frequency is 40 hertz and frequency range is 20-80 hertz. --there is nothing in the installation and user manual about bridge specifications or rules.

with these specifications, would the internal amplifier of this radio be overloaded connecting in a bridge fashion??

 

Since there is no "stereo" subwoofer signal both left and right subwoofer outputs are the same, from amp or RCA
Just use the Left channel

 

alright ron, when i connect it to the left port, the left channels low frequencies would go through that. but what about the right lows? would they then, without connection, be diverted to the right regular channels, unequally?

then, what if i connected a jack to the right port, that went to no speaker at all? would the system in theory be sending low frequencies to both left and right in equal fashion, but only be heard through the single left and connected port??

 

Unless your receiver costs $4,000+ both subwoofer channels will use a single cross-over to filter out low frequencies to send to BOTH subwoofers
The regular speakers get the frequencies above what ever they or YOU set as the cross-over frequency cut point
So your regular speakers and your one sub will work just fine

You need a common point/frequency to divide the mids and lows so you don't get duplicate frequencies from two different speakers, if there are two sound waves of the same frequency they will cancel each other out, if that happens then it would sound "muddy" not crisp, not uncommon in vehicles when speakers face each other in opposite doors unless some legs can get in the way, lol

You are over thinking it, one sub in a car or truck is more than enough, and 50watts is twice as much as needed

 

Are you 100% sure the RCA jacks are subwoofer jacks,

They may be line level out jacks to power an amplifier, and the 4 channel output on the wire harness would not be used.

 

yes! absolutely sure! the instructions and the unit itself identifies the jacks as subwoofer connections. totally done! four channel on the harness is separate. i even got further direction and confirmation from sony chat support. its all good 2011. :)

for reference, it is the CDX-G1200U model

 

this isnt really a fuse question, but still hasta do with the radio.

without directly connecting to the speakers where theyre installed; is it possible to test the speakers through the factory harness unplugged from the radio?? like putting wires into the harness with the other end connected to something like an MP3 player to test signal? --all without simply connecting a 9 volt battery to the speaker terminals.

 

No, the headphone out on MP3/phones is under 1.5volts and the magnet/coil on the vehicle speakers wouldn't move with so little power
Headphones work because magnet/coil don't need much voltage

Google: simple amplifier

You can make one or buy one, they are not expensive
Amplifiers increase the music signals voltage, hopefully without distorting the sound, lol

 

awwe man! i already have a clarion amplifier, but not using it with this new installation. and im not gonna invest in building/buying a cheap one when i already have one...... but im going instead with the one built into the radio... the amplifier is since removed along with its power and other wires.

i may be wholly overthinking things here, but my previous installation was not sending an audio signal to the rear speakers. but i knew for an indisputable fact that the rear speaker wires were connected correctly to the wire harness. but profuced no sound. only the front. id done no changes what so ever to the rear speaker connections at the back wall of the cabin. and prior even to this failure, the rear speakers were working just fine. when they did work, the radio just altogether stopped playing audio. and, those rear speakers were hardly driven anyway when they were working.

those speakers produce sound in a different way, connected as shown in this image. tho actually connected to the rear speaker output not the front as shown.



there in giving a simulated surround sound effect. it does work, you should try it

 

Well it would certainly be out of phase so you could get an echo effect, described as surround

Front speakers would be louder because they would each be 8 ohm load, rear would be 16 ohm, so about a 12 ohm load on the amp, which shouldn't hurt anything

If you grounded the rear to the amps speaker ground that would be all equal ohms(4) and in phase

 

well ron, prior to all these radio failures, the rear speakers connected as such, have sounded fine. with echo, surround or fase issues. they have been connected like that for a few years now, with no issue. and when using the fader, i can adjust loudness accordingly.

what do you mean setting a ground for the rear section of the amplifier?? the speaker wires at the radio/amplifier (harness) are connected per usual. positive and negatives accordingly. for front and rear. its just the rear speakers whose negatives are connected together as shown. and without an extension to any ground point. --been that way the whole time

 

Each speaker should be connected to either left or right +
And either left or right ground, -, ground is common for left and right

The diagram doesn't show that, it shows the rear speakers in series, signal passes thru one speaker then another speak, to make the circuit, which also works but increase the ohms so power is about 1/2

If you reverse +/- on the speaker it still works fine, its just out of phase with the other speakers
So one of the rear speakers in diagram would be out of phase with the other 3, if it was amp+----- +speaker- ----------+speaker- ------- -amp, then it would be in phase

 

okay, i think i understand Ron. I am wondering tho, with the rear speakers connected as such; is it possible to leave them like that and have same ohm load as the front, instead of 16?

 

No, a speaker is an 8 ohm load, when you connect two 8 ohm loads in series its 16 ohms, no way around that