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Old 02-16-2012
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how much sound deadener?

did some searching and can't seem to find a straight answer. I'm looking at getting some FatMat to do my truck. I don't have my stereo anymore thanks to some *****, and I don't plan to put another sub in just because it took up to much needed space for me. so its just upgraded door speakers and a head unit; so this isn't a build to improve stereo sound, although I'm sure it will help. I was thinking about getting 50 sq ft and starting with that.

I saw one thread where 50 would be about right, but Korey's thread suggested using 100-110 sq feet. the trucks a two door extended cab, so my plan was the doors, the back wall and what is supposed to be the back doors and the floor. then do the roof if i have any material left over.

so do you think 50 is enough? trying to stay as close to or under 100 bucks if at all possible, because 50 sq feet of FatMat is 80 bucks with free shipping. 100 sq ft is 140 shipped. but if i can get away with 50 id rather not spend more for the 100 if I'm not going to use it.
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Old 02-16-2012
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You might cover all that if you dont butt up all the material. Ive got a standard cab and used 60 sq ft. The only thing not covered yet is the firewall itself. That should give you some idea? Any questions let me know.
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Old 02-17-2012
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thanks man! do you have any pictures by any chance? im thinking i might be leaning towards just getting 100..
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Old 02-17-2012
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Here ya go





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Old 02-17-2012
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Originally Posted by FordTough2007 View Post
thanks man! do you have any pictures by any chance? im thinking i might be leaning towards just getting 100..
Good idea. I used 100 on my truck... I had a running thread on another site but didn't post it here... I put the info together and posted below.

Last edited by zx6rrdan; 02-17-2012 at 02:43 AM.
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Old 02-17-2012
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I've done sound deadening for the entire cab of my truck. I used B-Quite ultimate http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html. B-Quite product is very high quality and easy to install... It takes time but pretty fun taking everything apart for the interior. Just make sure you've got trim tools as taking out the clips without them sucks.

Final results are great. The truck is much quieter and rattle free and most impressive is the truck just feels much more solid and better quality. I noticed the doors done including the back the second you open and close the doors. So much more solid. Next was less road noise and silence on the road and no more noise from the body panels when I go over bumps

How much material? I ball parked what I was going to need on some rough measurements. The measures are generous... it would add up to 86sq/ft and I used 100sq/ft but included a lot of doubling in many parts.

Floor 54x71 = 27 sq/ft
Back Wall 56x19 = 7 sq/ft
Roof 46x50 = 16 sq/ft
Front doors inner 36x24x2 = 12 sq/ft
Front doors outer 36x24x2 = 12 sq/ft
Rear Door outer 17x26x2 = 6 sq/ft
Rear Door inner 17x26x2 = 6 sq/ft

Biggest install surprise was how long it took... many many hours. Thankfully I had a friend helping and it's fun work.

First I started and did the floor and the back wall of the truck. This took about 8hrs with a friend helping


Next I continued and did the roof which only took about 2-3 hours. I did double layer on the main roof panel and plan to do the same on the exterior door panel.


Another day I finished the major work with the Drivers door, Passengers door and the back doors and I installed jimmijammer at the same time. (I should post about that too in another thread)

This time I was working inside so crappy light plus iphone so only a few pics. Here's the inside of a front door with the only the outer panel done and then the back door with the outer panel and the interior done.

All the little pieces are for working around the mounting pins instead of covering them and pushing through plus was last door/material. Inside panel is more rattle proofing vs sound proofing and wow does it work.






I did a few things and thought I was done but... once you get to where I was you'll start to hear other rattles and can pin point them.

First was the cup holders... a cup/can in the cup holders rattles as mine are hard plastic on the base. I went searching and found the material I wanted in an Ipad2 protector. Cut some circles to fit doing the sizing with a cup I kept cutting to get the right size size and now now more rattle :)

and lastly the glove box... noisey little piece. I took it out, took it apart and sound proofed it


So I thought I was done but as I chased the last of the rattles away I found one more that kept coming back from the glove box door and I figured out I made a mistake on the sound proofing. Took it apart again and sound proofed where the inner piece meets the outside (redline in pic) and then I was really done.
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Old 02-17-2012
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I have about 75sq sitting in my garage to do this in the spring.
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Old 02-17-2012
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IMO, You don't need to do every panel if you don't have subs and your just looking for a bit quieter ride.
I would just do the floor and doors since that is where the majority of the sound will be coming from.

The measurements that Dan posted are pretty close also, so i'd go by those if you were to order some.
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Old 02-17-2012
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Got a roll of Be-Quiet… (I posted before I used Fat Mat but looked at the box (god forbid)
Got the floor, the back and up the fire wall as far as I could.
The rest of the roll and there is a lot left over, will be used for the roof and the doors.

This stuff works great for just quieting down road noise, almost didn’t expect it and when I took a ride aftr getting all back together WOW, can’t wait to get the ret of the truck done.





Why a full roll, this stuff can be used on everything to stop sound vibrations, so I thought a little extra will work out.
I will use a small strip on the inside of the Gauge Pods I am using for my tweeters, I was thinking maybe some strips on the center console to give it a more solid sound and the tool box, I lined the sides and floor with ⅛” rubber but the lid would be too heavy so a little adhesive and a couple stripes of Be-Quiet should get it done.
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Last edited by Scrambler82; 02-17-2012 at 09:03 AM.
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  #10  
Old 02-17-2012
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awesome info guys! i apreciate it! i guess i just need to go by what i actually want to cover and then order some.

Dan, i really apreciate your post, thats going to help me out a ton!
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  #11  
Old 02-17-2012
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Glad the info is helpful and enjoy the job it's pretty fun and the results will amaze you. I measured mine with a sound meter after each of the sections and measurable results are nice but the feel going down the road outdoes the numbers :)

That said I should go find the numbers and add them into the info above.
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Old 02-18-2012
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Dan, How was doing the front doors ?

Looks like small pieces and a lot of them would make install easier.

thks

Last edited by Scrambler82; 02-18-2012 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 02-18-2012
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Keep it on topic. This is a thread about sound deadener.
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Old 02-18-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Dan, How was doing the front doors ?

Looks like small pieces and a lot of them would make install easier.

thks
There's lots of room to reach into the door for the install doing the outer door skin with with full length/width sheets.

The inner side of the door I did with cut pieces more as rattle proofing between the interior plastic and the metal it mounts on. I've seen people just cover the entire inside as well but I didn't as I was worried about access for maintenance and possible problems removing the panels in the future.

+1 on Scrambers comment that this stuff is great to stop vibration on anything.
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Old 02-18-2012
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I found my noise measurements for the floor and back wall reduced road noise by 1.6db and the roof reduced noise by another 1.2 db. Which is massive considering the DB scale

I did the doors last and there was further improvement but I can't find the record so I must have blown the save I'll do the road test again to have all the info

I didn't do anything in the dash / engine bay area because I want to hear the motor more not less. Worked too as motor sounds sweet under acceleration.

Biggest gain might be beyond the ability of a sound meter to measure as it's not about the noise level and more about the noise it self and getting rid of vibration, creaks and rattles is amazing. My truck feels so solid and smooth

Last edited by zx6rrdan; 02-18-2012 at 10:59 AM.
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  #16  
Old 02-19-2012
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Originally Posted by zx6rrdan View Post
My truck feels so solid and smooth
this is exactly what I'm after haha. and youve pretty much convinced me to go through with this, as I was a little hesitant at first
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Old 02-19-2012
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this is exactly what I'm after haha. and youve pretty much convinced me to go through with this, as I was a little hesitant at first
Sweet you won't regret it... make sure to get some automotive trim tools to make the install more fun than frustrating and a hockey puck is better than the roller. Be sure to post up if you find tips and trips along the way

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Old 02-19-2012
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Since you have no sub you don't need to worry about panel vibrations as much. Peel and stick dampener only stops the metal from resonating and rattling.
Covering 1/4 of a panel will provide about 90% of the effect as covering the entire panel. Completely lining your truck with peel and stick will not give you a quiet cab. road noise will still pass through the peel and stick. putting anything between you and the noise will help, but there are better ways of doing that.

You need A solid mass barrier and a decoupling material in order to block the sound that peel and stick does not stop.
MLV (mass loaded vinyl) and open celled foam are most commonly used for this in automobiles, homes and recording studios

I've only put about 10 sqft of second skin in my truck, on select panels. It was enough to make my doors and cab solid feeling and stop panel vibration. I have a moderately powered system and I have zero rattles. Before the deadener I did have quite a few. If you're just looking for a quiet cab then I would only buy a small amount of peel and stick liner and then buy some mlv and ccf and line your cab with that.

Last edited by RangOH; 02-19-2012 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012
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I am no noise expert BUT I do know two things, the interior noise in my truck went down and the truck became more comfortable to drive ( I need to do a little more).
AND two… The transmission noise went down when I use this is double layering over the hump and close to the transmission and added some around the foam I was already using under the shifter boot.

Well worth all you put in it, effort and money.
Also you can clean up the cab under the mat/carpet once you’ve taken everything out.

luck with it, get'er done !
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Old 02-21-2012
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Like I said it does help, but there are more effective ways of killing the noise than lining everything with multiple layers of peel and stick. what I mentioned would be about the same cost, easier, and much more effective. Its not a new concept. I just think that many are unaware of it. mlv will make your truck dead silent in one layer. it would probably take ten layers of peel and stick to do what one layer of mlv does.
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Old 02-21-2012
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Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
Like I said it does help, but there are more effective ways of killing the noise than lining everything with multiple layers of peel and stick. what I mentioned would be about the same cost, easier, and much more effective. Its not a new concept. I just think that many are unaware of it. mlv will make your truck dead silent in one layer. it would probably take ten layers of peel and stick to do what one layer of mlv does.
Found it, $90/gal plus shipping for liquid that is.
Spray on or brush it.
Sounds (LoL) good price isn’t too bad.
Not sure how far a gal will go ?
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Old 02-21-2012
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Found it, $90/gal plus shipping for liquid that is.
Spray on or brush it.
Sounds (LoL) good price isn’t too bad.
Not sure how far a gal will go ?
The liquid is different, it also has its place in the system, but I was talking about the sheet mlv. google "mass loaded vinyl" you can find it various places. But remember it needs to be decoupled from the surface that the noise is coming though.. most people use open cell foam, but you can use other things like carpet pad or whatever you can come up with that will create a air space. This is needed to keep the vinyl for contacting the resonating surface. The mlv has to be continuous as possible the less seams and gaps the better.
the auto sound deadener company Second skin calls it luxury liner. but its the same stuff that gives you "tomb like silence"

Its about $1 a sqft you would probably need about 50ft of it to cover an extended cabs floors, rear panel and doors.

The liquid your talking about is usually suited for undercoating the body or inaccessible areas to add mass which also helps.

Last edited by RangOH; 02-21-2012 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 02-21-2012
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Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
The liquid is different, it also has its place in the system, but I was talking about the sheet mlv. google "mass loaded vinyl" you can find it various places. But remember it needs to be decoupled from the surface that the noise is coming though.. most people use open cell foam, but you can use other things like carpet pad or whatever you can come up with that will create a air space. This is needed to keep the vinyl for contacting the resonating surface. The mlv has to be continuous as possible the less seams and gaps the better.
the auto sound deadener company Second skin calls it luxury liner. but its the same stuff that gives you "tomb like silence"

Its about $1 a sqft you would probably need about 50ft of it to cover an extended cabs floors, rear panel and doors.

The liquid your talking about is usually suited for undercoating the body or inaccessible areas to add mass which also helps.
That makes sense.
I have the site and will look at the stuff more once I get ready for the door and roof work.

Thks for the response and the info.
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Old 02-21-2012
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Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
The liquid is different, it also has its place in the system, but I was talking about the sheet mlv. google "mass loaded vinyl" you can find it various places. But remember it needs to be decoupled from the surface that the noise is coming though.. most people use open cell foam, but you can use other things like carpet pad or whatever you can come up with that will create a air space. This is needed to keep the vinyl for contacting the resonating surface. The mlv has to be continuous as possible the less seams and gaps the better.
the auto sound deadener company Second skin calls it luxury liner. but its the same stuff that gives you "tomb like silence"

Its about $1 a sqft you would probably need about 50ft of it to cover an extended cabs floors, rear panel and doors.

The liquid your talking about is usually suited for undercoating the body or inaccessible areas to add mass which also helps.
Sounds like I need to add this to the sound proofing in my truck

Would you just apply it inside the doors over the sound proofing that's already there?

Last edited by zx6rrdan; 02-21-2012 at 07:18 PM.
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2012
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Originally Posted by zx6rrdan View Post
Sweet you won't regret it... make sure to get some automotive trim tools to make the install more fun than frustrating and a hockey puck is better than the roller. Be sure to post up if you find tips and trips along the way


awesome man, where can i get those trim tools? i already have enough hockey pucks lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
Since you have no sub you don't need to worry about panel vibrations as much. Peel and stick dampener only stops the metal from resonating and rattling.
Covering 1/4 of a panel will provide about 90% of the effect as covering the entire panel. Completely lining your truck with peel and stick will not give you a quiet cab. road noise will still pass through the peel and stick. putting anything between you and the noise will help, but there are better ways of doing that.

You need A solid mass barrier and a decoupling material in order to block the sound that peel and stick does not stop.
MLV (mass loaded vinyl) and open celled foam are most commonly used for this in automobiles, homes and recording studios

I've only put about 10 sqft of second skin in my truck, on select panels. It was enough to make my doors and cab solid feeling and stop panel vibration. I have a moderately powered system and I have zero rattles. Before the deadener I did have quite a few. If you're just looking for a quiet cab then I would only buy a small amount of peel and stick liner and then buy some mlv and ccf and line your cab with that.
thanks man! what I'm really after is exactly what you said is the doors and cab solid feeling and panel vibration and stuff. road noise doesn't really bother me. if it did id just sell it and get something else. my windows are open most of the time during the summer. I just dont want the truck to feel as flimsy and rattly as it does.. if that makes any sense?
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