how much sound deadener? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 02-22-2012
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Wait till people see the price on the Second Skin luxury liner or even the LL Pro! LOL

http://secondskinaudio.com/noise-bar...xury-liner.php

http://secondskinaudio.com/noise-bar...-Liner-Pro.php
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  #27  
Old 02-22-2012
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So are u coming to my house to do this?
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  #28  
Old 02-22-2012
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Originally Posted by FordTough2007 View Post
awesome man, where can i get those trim tools? i already have enough hockey pucks lol.


thanks man! what I'm really after is exactly what you said is the doors and cab solid feeling and panel vibration and stuff. road noise doesn't really bother me. if it did id just sell it and get something else. my windows are open most of the time during the summer. I just dont want the truck to feel as flimsy and rattly as it does.. if that makes any sense?
I got the tools at princess auto but I've seen them online and at most auto parts stores.

I totally understand what your saying about the quality feel. I understand how the mlv will kill road noise great but don't know if it would give that same solid weighted feel to the doors that the have with the sound proof right on the panel.

Looking around I see people that did mlv did it over the sound deadener. Prob a good idea
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  #29  
Old 02-22-2012
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Quote:
Would you just apply it inside the doors over the sound proofing that's already there?
Yes you would use this just like the vapor barrier that is between the door and interior panel.

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Wait till people see the price on the Second Skin luxury liner or even the LL Pro! LOL
over priced I agree, that's why it would be better to buy the non branded MLV from another source. It would however be cheaper than trying to accomplish the same thing with only peel and stick.

Quote:
I'm really after is exactly what you said is the doors and cab solid feeling and panel vibration and stuff. road noise doesn't really bother me.
Well then you would do well with just the peel and stick type. Just stay away from the cheap discount brands like fatmat, they are made of mostly tar and are not effective in the summertime when the weather warms up. The two brands I know of that are most effective are Dynamat Xtreme and Second Skin, there are only a few others but those two I know for sure are good. you don't need to line everything just buy 10 to 20sqft of quality stuff and use the 1/4 of the panel rule and your truck should feel and sound solid.
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  #30  
Old 02-22-2012
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Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
Yes you would use this just like the vapor barrier that is between the door and interior panel.

over priced I agree, that's why it would be better to buy the non branded MLV from another source. It would however be cheaper than trying to accomplish the same thing with only peel and stick.

Well then you would do well with just the peel and stick type. Just stay away from the cheap discount brands like fatmat, they are made of mostly tar and are not effective in the summertime when the weather warms up. The two brands I know of that are most effective are Dynamat Xtreme and Second Skin, there are only a few others but those two I know for sure are good. you don't need to line everything just buy 10 to 20sqft of quality stuff and use the 1/4 of the panel rule and your truck should feel and sound solid.
If I'm understanding correctly you don't achieve the same effect with an absorber vs damper.

Damper – reduce panel resonance, reduce/absorb vibrations on the panel it is attached too
Absorber – absorb sound from road, engine / anywhere

If that's the case than I think I'm done as my main objective was like FordTough2007 in that I wanted a rock solid rattle free truck. Lower noise level was a bonus and it's definitely more than quite enough for me to be happy. Sound work done... on to my next project of building my own Line-X Tonneau cover.
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  #31  
Old 02-22-2012
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I talked to Rick @ RAAMaudio.com...I asked how much I needed for do:

Inner Door Skin
Outer door skin
Roof
Floor
Rear wall

This was his response

Quote:
1.5 rolls BXT any left use to finish
the floor if 1/2 floor only is not quite enough
1/2 roll floor only
6 yards (each yard is 14sq ft)
3 cans
floor only roll was a batch they had that wasnt sticky enough for roof/door applications...so u need 2 rolls of material
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  #32  
Old 02-22-2012
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Quote:
Damper – reduce panel resonance, reduce/absorb vibrations on the panel it is attached too
Absorber – absorb sound from road, engine / anywhere
I would consider MLV to be more of a blocker or barrier. something like closed cell foam or acoustic foam would be more of a absorber or diffuser.

Here is a deadner and mlv install on a yaris http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-system-2.html

Last edited by RangOH; 02-22-2012 at 06:27 PM.
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2012
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Originally Posted by Downey View Post
So are u coming to my house to do this?
haha not sure yet. depends on when i get the material and what truck i have with me after spring break. i go home next friday

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Originally Posted by zx6rrdan View Post
I got the tools at princess auto but I've seen them online and at most auto parts stores.

I totally understand what your saying about the quality feel. I understand how the mlv will kill road noise great but don't know if it would give that same solid weighted feel to the doors that the have with the sound proof right on the panel.

Looking around I see people that did mlv did it over the sound deadener. Prob a good idea
awesome ill have to look at them. yeah im back to looking at what i want to get now, this thread was definitely a good idea. thanks again for all your help man

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangOH View Post

Well then you would do well with just the peel and stick type. Just stay away from the cheap discount brands like fatmat, they are made of mostly tar and are not effective in the summertime when the weather warms up. The two brands I know of that are most effective are Dynamat Xtreme and Second Skin, there are only a few others but those two I know for sure are good. you don't need to line everything just buy 10 to 20sqft of quality stuff and use the 1/4 of the panel rule and your truck should feel and sound solid.
thanks for the advice man, and all the help in this thread. i guess its going back to the drawing board on what to get for materials, ill have to look around a little bit. ive been really busy so this has been put on the back burner the last week. but with spring break coming up ill be able to do some more looking.
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  #34  
Old 02-23-2012
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You better have the diesel need to tint those windows
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  #35  
Old 02-26-2012
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its looking like thats what i'm going to have haha
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  #36  
Old 03-07-2012
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Fine pictures! Great work have been done...It' seems to me that there will be a good noise isolation but wouldn't that be harmful for the driver.
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  #37  
Old 03-07-2012
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IMO This is the best resource anyone could ask for when looking for info on sound deadning....

http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_...r_Showdown.pdf
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  #38  
Old 03-07-2012
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Originally Posted by Fink132 View Post
IMO This is the best resource anyone could ask for when looking for info on sound deadning....

http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_...r_Showdown.pdf
Interesting info, wil have to review that more when I get a chance.

thks
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  #39  
Old 03-09-2012
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that ^ is exactly what I initially learned from... I started getting interested in doing the same to my house too. its some of the basic physics of sound/noise. Once you understand the basics can apply it to everything, Its a great read. You absolutely should read it a few times.
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  #40  
Old 03-09-2012
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can somebody tell me how much 100sq feet weighs?
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  #41  
Old 03-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06RangerXLT View Post
can somebody tell me how much 100sq feet weighs?
What product? That PDF file above has tons on this information in it.

B-Quiet Extreme = Published Lbs ft2 0.30
B-Quiet Ultimate = Published Lbs ft2 0.35
Brown Bread = Published Lbs ft2 0.34
Damplifier = Published Lbs ft2 0.42
Damplifier Pro = Published Lbs ft2 0.48
Dynamat Original = Published Lbs ft2 0.68
Dynamat Xtreme = Published Lbs ft2 0.45
eDead v1 = Published Lbs ft2 0.35
eDead v1SE = Published Lbs ft2 0.50
FatMat = Published Lbs ft2 0.26
RAAMmat BXT60 = Published Lbs ft2 0.35
VB2 = Published Lbs ft2 0.29

A little multiplication and your all set....

Last edited by logan03CO; 03-09-2012 at 08:29 PM.
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  #42  
Old 03-09-2012
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who would you recommend? for a peel and stick type mat
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  #43  
Old 03-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
I would consider MLV to be more of a blocker or barrier. something like closed cell foam or acoustic foam would be more of a absorber or diffuser.

Here is a deadner and mlv install on a yaris http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-system-2.html
Are there Companies that do these installs ? I did dynamat on my VW Beetle right after I purchased it and installed some nice speakers. I do find the car a little noisy from the road. I did not do the roof or floor area, just the door and side panels to stop resonation. I'm wondering if installing the stuff you mention would help.

I guess I'll have to look to see who does car soundproofing in my area.

Thanks for sharing the great information.
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  #44  
Old 03-10-2012
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probably gonna run fatmat. 100 sq ft, do the roof, floor, doors and back wall. if i have some left, ill do the fire wall a bit as well. not gonna go as crazy with it as some guys with every inch covered, after all if something blows up its nice to hear it lmao.

also figured since im not covering every inch, i can double it up in some areas, and it will still cost less then other companies and be the same thickness.
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  #45  
Old 03-10-2012
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Originally Posted by Fink132 View Post
IMO This is the best resource anyone could ask for when looking for info on sound deadning....

http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_...r_Showdown.pdf
Wow great link. I was looking for something like that and didn't find it when I was choosing my product.

I thought hard on Second Skin but price was much higher so I went B-Quite ultimate. That's one thing to remember is prices and offers change so I wouldn't take the links prices as being current.

Last edited by zx6rrdan; 03-10-2012 at 12:50 PM.
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  #46  
Old 03-10-2012
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Originally Posted by 06RangerXLT View Post
probably gonna run fatmat. 100 sq ft, do the roof, floor, doors and back wall. if i have some left, ill do the fire wall a bit as well. not gonna go as crazy with it as some guys with every inch covered, after all if something blows up its nice to hear it lmao.

also figured since im not covering every inch, i can double it up in some areas, and it will still cost less then other companies and be the same thickness.
100 sq ft is going crazy :) That will let you do everything with lots of doubling in spots.
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  #47  
Old 04-11-2012
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This past week-end i installed about 25 sq/ft of hliner (1/2 inch accoustic foam) & 75-80 sq/ft of ultimate b-quiet in the cab of my truck.

I laid down two peices of the Hliner in the footwells and another two peices in the floor area behind the seats.

I put two peices on the skin (exterior panel) of the front doors parallel to the tube that runs the length of the door and another good sized peice in the back doors.

I also put some peices of the foam inbetween the inward protrusions on the back wall. This left a nice even surface to apply the dampener to.

After that I covered the floor and front doors with two layers of b-quiet, the back wall and doors only got one layer.

I just have the roof left to go and i am leaning towards giving it a double treatment of the b-quiet.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! i didn't get the scosche spl meter i have inbound in time, so i could post some before and after numbers.

Once i do get the SPL meter i will post some numbers

1. Alpine Type S 5X7's run with factory deck.
2. Same speakers with Alpine CDE-121 deck & KTP-445 power pack.
3. Above set-up with Alpine SWS-1223D and MRP-M500 running at 4 ohms.
4. Noise levels in cab driving at 60, 90 & 110 km/h with the radio off.

This thread is the reason i joined R-F so i am looking forward to the discussion.
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  #48  
Old 06-21-2012
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I ordered some Raamat BXT II (37.5 sq ft) and ensolite (28 sq ft) a couple days ago, expect to receive it on Monday. Can't wait to do the install, hopefully it makes a big difference. Going to do the doors and the area behind the rear speakers/jumpseats first. Depending on how much is left, I may do the front floorboards or the back of the cab.
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