has anyone ever used this stuff for sound proofing their interior?
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...d_id=100028603
I dont know anything about dynamat, or fatmat, or any of that stuff...but I'm looking for somethin that works well, but is cheap for helping cut down on road noise, etc. in the cab
I also see that 50 sq/ft of fatmat goes for about $80 shipped on eBay, is that a good deal?

Joe

 

Don't use tar mats. Get a butyl-based material like SecondSkin or Dynamat. They will adhere better, do a better job of dampening, and won't melt like tar or asphalt-based mats do.

 

is there any tar in that product? seems to me like its just a layer of foam surrounded by foil

 

Oh sorry i saw home depot and figured you were looking at peel n seel or w/e that stuff is. I've not heard of that one way or another... seems like an interesting idea?

The only thing I wonder about is how well it will actually dampen the metal panels. If it is only foil and foam, it won't add much weight to the panel which won't keep it from resonating. It may absorb some of the sound, but I'd doubt it would do as well as some of the materials that are actually made to stop resonation.

 

If Lowes has it they will price match and take 10% off if they carry that brand, and if they don't act like an ******* and chances are you'll get the discount anyway...

Unless you know anyone that works at Lowes and they can get you a discount.

 

how big of a difference is there anyways? I mean, I realise its a ton of work. I plan to rip my entire interiror apart this summer and let it fully dry and clean it up a bit, while i have it apart, i was thinking bout this, but does it really make that big of a difference?

 

i'm going to do this with some dynamat one of these days .

if your also getting rattles along with that road noise get a screwdriver and gently tighten all the screws in the back of the cab and push in on all the plastic pins .DO NOT STRIP THE HOLES....the screws keep backing out under the window in my truck .

then at home depot in the plumbing department they sell foam tape. I cut little pits and put it anywhwere two plastic pieces come together like where the side panel and the back of the cab come together.

the G/F's focus really needs that dynamat.

 

On the floor I would use something that sprays or rolls/brushes on. The last thing you want is water getting under that fiberglass and rusting your floor out.
You got me thinking. What about some left over roofing membrane? Lay that sucker in there adhesive side down. Research this before trying. (insert disclaimer here)

 

I think that has been discussed as on hot days that sticking solution will heat up and loose its adhesiveness.

 

someone mentioned expanding foam in an aerisol can, how dod that work? I like that rubber between pieces of plastic idea. I gotta do that to my dash cause i got a squeak from hell right where i sit and it drives me up a wall. That and them cheap crappy plastic cargo doors in the 2 door extended cabs in the back, they squeak and rattle and its uber annoying. maybe thats what ill do this weekend.

 

Bass passes right through that stuff.

 

great stuff is what you are talking about. and i used to with good results on the trunk lid of my mazda 626. what it dose is when it expands between 2 pieces of metal it connects them and makes it like 1 piece of metal. therefore it has nothing to vibrate against.

and peel and seal is a love it or hate it material. some have used it with no issues, others have used it and it didnt work for a dam for them. it has alot to do in the prep and application process. make sure the surface is clean and you heat it up to get it sticky. also make sure you roll it out, and press it down good a for maximum adhesions area