rear door speaker install (pic request)
#1
rear door speaker install (pic request)
Greetings Ranger folk!
I've read that it is a PITA to take the rear door apart to do a speaker swap. I was debating opening it up just to look around and see what the other openings looks like. I'm toying with the idea of adding an 8" sub to the bottom of each door in a custom FG enclosure that takes the place of that storage area. Does anyone have a pic of their rear doors with the panels off before I go and rip mine apart for the sake of curiosity and measuring? Thanks in advance,
Chance
ps- it'll most likely be two fosgate 8"s or an equivalent pushed by an amp that matches it in power.
I've read that it is a PITA to take the rear door apart to do a speaker swap. I was debating opening it up just to look around and see what the other openings looks like. I'm toying with the idea of adding an 8" sub to the bottom of each door in a custom FG enclosure that takes the place of that storage area. Does anyone have a pic of their rear doors with the panels off before I go and rip mine apart for the sake of curiosity and measuring? Thanks in advance,
Chance
ps- it'll most likely be two fosgate 8"s or an equivalent pushed by an amp that matches it in power.
#4
Here you go. Took these when I was soundproofing my doors in preparation for a new sound system. The 2 on top are the rear doors and of course the one on the bottom is the driver side front door.
Don't know who told you it was a PITA to remove the covers. It's no big deal. The back doors have about a dozen christmas tree fasteners that just pop out. You need a special tool for that.
I think you can get one at any auto parts store for a few bucks. The front doors have 2 screws holding the handle and a 3rd in the bottom outside edge.
You'll have to remove the window rollers if you have manual windows or there's 2 electrical clips it you have power locks and windows. Again no big deal.
I've had the panels off my doors so many times I can now remove the back panes in less than a minute. The fronts take a bit longer.
Also I'm not sure if you have enough room in the doors to fit a sub. Measure carefully. If not there are several sub-boxes available that will fit in the back of the ranger.
Some require you remove one or both of the jump seats. Others will fit under the jump seats. Try this web site if you decide to go that route. http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/422.htm
Good luck.
Don't know who told you it was a PITA to remove the covers. It's no big deal. The back doors have about a dozen christmas tree fasteners that just pop out. You need a special tool for that.
I think you can get one at any auto parts store for a few bucks. The front doors have 2 screws holding the handle and a 3rd in the bottom outside edge.
You'll have to remove the window rollers if you have manual windows or there's 2 electrical clips it you have power locks and windows. Again no big deal.
I've had the panels off my doors so many times I can now remove the back panes in less than a minute. The fronts take a bit longer.
Also I'm not sure if you have enough room in the doors to fit a sub. Measure carefully. If not there are several sub-boxes available that will fit in the back of the ranger.
Some require you remove one or both of the jump seats. Others will fit under the jump seats. Try this web site if you decide to go that route. http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/422.htm
Good luck.
#5
You ROCK, Nick!
Nick-
You're the MAN! :) Thanks so much dude! The subs I'm looking at (8" rockfords) need .25 cu. ft. per sub (P1) or .15-.35 per sub (P2) Mounting depth is about 4.062". It'll be a tight fit, I'm sure, but I'll see if I can't build the box out just a hair or so since the panels are kinda deep as well. I just might be able to pull something off here.
Of course, some sound deadening will most likely have to come into play to quell any unwanted vibrations, but I'm not going for SPL or any of that, I just want a good all around sound.
I'm really stoked about this project now. Too bad I'm leaving the state in a week to go teach summer camp for two months.... :( Bummer. I know they have woodshop, but I'm pretty sure 'fiberglassing' is right out on their list of activities. Oh well...
Thanks for the photos. Now I know what I'm aiming for (eventually....). :) Thanks again,
-Chance
You're the MAN! :) Thanks so much dude! The subs I'm looking at (8" rockfords) need .25 cu. ft. per sub (P1) or .15-.35 per sub (P2) Mounting depth is about 4.062". It'll be a tight fit, I'm sure, but I'll see if I can't build the box out just a hair or so since the panels are kinda deep as well. I just might be able to pull something off here.
Of course, some sound deadening will most likely have to come into play to quell any unwanted vibrations, but I'm not going for SPL or any of that, I just want a good all around sound.
I'm really stoked about this project now. Too bad I'm leaving the state in a week to go teach summer camp for two months.... :( Bummer. I know they have woodshop, but I'm pretty sure 'fiberglassing' is right out on their list of activities. Oh well...
Thanks for the photos. Now I know what I'm aiming for (eventually....). :) Thanks again,
-Chance
#6
I know the feeling well Chance. I'm right in the middle of my interior rebuild myself. The cab of my truck is gutted. However it's time to leave for the summer.
The temps around here get into the 115 range almost every day during the summer. So my room mate and I get out of town.
Like you I'm not after SPL or a lot of "thump." I just want a good sounding system. Since my grandkids no longer fit in the jump seats,
I've decided to remove them and build a box to house two 10" subs. I've decided to go with an all Infinity set up.
I'm using Infinity reference components in the doors, backed up by two 10" Infinity kappa subs in the box.
I wanted to make sure the cab up to the job and I hated to tinny echo and noise level in the stock cab.
So for the last 4 months I've been working on sound deadening. I had Dynamat installed but it still wasn't quiet enough for me.
So I stripped it all out, talk about a PITA, and now I'm putting in some stuff from an outfit called "Second Skin Audio."
If this stuff is anywhere near as good as some guys say it is I'll be happy. So far I've done the doors and roof.
It has helped, but not as much as I had hoped for. I'm hoping when the floor/firewall/back wall are finished I'll get the results I'm looking for.
Enyoy your summer. Don't work to hard.
The temps around here get into the 115 range almost every day during the summer. So my room mate and I get out of town.
Like you I'm not after SPL or a lot of "thump." I just want a good sounding system. Since my grandkids no longer fit in the jump seats,
I've decided to remove them and build a box to house two 10" subs. I've decided to go with an all Infinity set up.
I'm using Infinity reference components in the doors, backed up by two 10" Infinity kappa subs in the box.
I wanted to make sure the cab up to the job and I hated to tinny echo and noise level in the stock cab.
So for the last 4 months I've been working on sound deadening. I had Dynamat installed but it still wasn't quiet enough for me.
So I stripped it all out, talk about a PITA, and now I'm putting in some stuff from an outfit called "Second Skin Audio."
If this stuff is anywhere near as good as some guys say it is I'll be happy. So far I've done the doors and roof.
It has helped, but not as much as I had hoped for. I'm hoping when the floor/firewall/back wall are finished I'll get the results I'm looking for.
Enyoy your summer. Don't work to hard.
#7
Nick- Yup, that's why we want to leave Florida. (That and we're almost on fire again here...) Infinity components will rock! I've used them previously, but had such a good deal on the stuff I have, that I went with the RFs. I don't think many reputable companies put together an 8" that will fit in REALLY tight spaces. (I'll choose a nice stealth install anyday.)
I've heard of second skin as well. Some friends on another forum I'm on use it for their cars. If I was to spend $$ on it, the sound deadening would be for my other ride (lord knows a '67 microbus needs all the sound deadening it can get...). They also like something called brown bread as well. My main concern is getting a nice tight sounding bass that doesn't rattle ANYTHING in the door/car. I hate that.
You have a good summer too. Talk to you later,
Chance
I've heard of second skin as well. Some friends on another forum I'm on use it for their cars. If I was to spend $$ on it, the sound deadening would be for my other ride (lord knows a '67 microbus needs all the sound deadening it can get...). They also like something called brown bread as well. My main concern is getting a nice tight sounding bass that doesn't rattle ANYTHING in the door/car. I hate that.
You have a good summer too. Talk to you later,
Chance
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