are the kicker CVR10's any good. i was lookin at two.

 

I've got one in my truck, sounds great to me!

 

they are good subs
how much per?

and you probably will be able to find better subs for the same price if you go to a car audio forum and ask around/ look in the classifieds

 

around $50. a sub

 

realy.. nvm then haha
yeah for that amount of money they are awesome
what amp?

 

idk yet if i end up gettin the kicker subs ill prolly go with one of their amps too. but im still not sure yet on even what im gonna get. any suggestions.

 

oh and whats the difference in a totally enclosed box with a few ports and where the tops of the subs is open and is still ported.

 

i dont get that last question sorry..
diff between sealed and ported?
or
diff between ported with aero's(the round ports) and the slot port?

 

ha sorry i dont know much about audio but im tryin to learn. some of the ones ive been lookin at like the whole entire sub is enclosed in the box with plexiglass so that you can see the sub in the box and then box is ported. and then some of the other ones the face of the sub is not enclosed but the box is still ported

 

If you mean something like this (keep in mind, I can't really draw 3d with just the paint program) overhead shot, I think this may be somewhat like the box you're describing.


I used a bandpass way back in the day. Hit pretty deep too. Drawback is the space needed for a box like that. Back then, it tended to be too mushy and boomy for my tastes. I like sealed boxes. Smaller to work with and cleaner sound though not as deep.

Hope that helps,

-Chance

 

yes thats exactly what i was tryin to describe. so your sayin for a deeper mushier bass use the bandpass.

 

Well, it'll hit deeper. It may be clearer these days since the speakers are better. (This was about 10 years ago.) But it will definitely go deeper if tuned to do so. It also depends on what the sub was built for. Some are better at smaller sealed enclosures and some tend to be better for ported, but most can work in both environments.

One ten in a properly tuned bandpass would provide a SOLID amount of bottom end in our small cabs. I'm running two 8's sealed and they work great!

Keep us posted,

-Chance

 

yeah i understand now haha
ill get a good link for you,

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxes4.asp#2

its a list and the more simple design you were talking about is the first one("bass reflex" or normaly called "ported")
and the more complex is the 5th selection ("single reflex band pass" normaly called "bandpass")

if your making your box or even if your buying a prefab box id recomend the ported
1: easyer to build.. by far
2: cheaper
3: not a peaky response
4: you dont have to take the plexiglass off to take out the sub and for most prefabs the plexi is glued on there and you cant even pry it off

i would recomend making your own box becasue its a whole lot cheaper ( $25 for a 4 x 9 peice of 3/4 MDF) most prefab boxes use 1/2 mdf which is actualy alot more flimsy than 3/4 and leaks more air. also if you make it your self you can make it fit to the truck and not just be a box sitting backthere sliding around

oh another good thing haha im bored.. can you tell?
try to bolt your box down to your truck
most people use the holes made for the jump seats which work very well
remeber if you get in an acident and that ~100 lb box goes flying... its gonna hurt haha

 

haha thanks a lot both of ya. i would deff build my own box and deff could if i had the tools. but i dont have the tools right now. seein as i just bought a house im tryin to conserve money as much as possible but i do love my music so i gotta have a system.

im gonna go with the ported. seeems like a good choice. now i just gotta decide on everyting else. i would like jl but there kinda outta my price range for now so ill prolly go with some kickers

 

yeah you cant beat $50 per sub
.. unless you go with pyle haha and DON'T

 

haha dont worry i wont.

whats the diff between 2 ohm and 4 ohm.

 

the diff on subs:
some subs have a single voice, some have dual
i think yours are single 4 ohm right?
anyways, ohms are resistance so the smaller the # the less resistance

the diff on amps:
the less resistance the amp sees the more power it puts out
for instance say the amp was a kicker zx450.2
specs-
150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
225 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
450 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode

see how at two ohms it puts out 225 x 2 which is more than the 150 x 2 at four ohms

your subs (if single 4 ohm voice coil) will have a final ohm load of either 1 or 4 ohms
most 2 channel amps are bridgable at 4 ohms(combine the two channels by using the + from channel 1 and the - from channel 2)
that means if you were using this amp you could use the bridged mode and get 450 watts

 

i appreciate all your help man. its sure helped out. im understandin a little more now. but as i said i dont have the tools right now to build my own box is there any like package deal with the subs already in a box that you would suggest.

 

well i went ahead and got some subs and the box. two kicker solo-baric l5's, 10's. what amp might yall suggest

 

something that does 800-1000 mono
or 400-500 x 2

are they 2 or 4 ohm coils?

 

they are 2 ohm.

 

I have 2 kicker 10's that good while being under powered, They are in a kicker made box tho so i'm sure that helps out a lot but they sound way better then my old sony 10's.

 

thats casue kicker is alot better than sony :D

and 00rangerxlt... you want an amp that does 450 x 2 at 2 ohm
or one that does 900 x 1 at either 4 or 1 ohm

 

haha.

thanks man. should i stay with kicker for the amp since the subs are or does it really matter that much.

 

Depends on what kids of bells and whistles you want on it. I wish mine had come with remote bass ****. But hey, it was free. Who am I to complain?
Just match it in RMS wattage to your subs RMS, and things should do fine.

-C