ok, so between my roommate coming back from jersey with my new deck from crutchfield, and my mom coming to town to give me my christmas presents early, i have aquired this nice looking stack of stuff...



so i've got my stock deck out, problem is, my wiring harness from crutchfield has 1 plug, the stock deck has 2... one looks like the one i was expecting, the other is square(ish) but only uses 5 wires, all 5 of these go back to my aux in, where the earlier model had the key for pass airbag? down at the bottom of the dash... why is there 5 wires? how do i wire this to my new 3.5mm aux in on my jvc deck?

 

As far as I know you won't be able to use the stock input on an aftermarket head unit. Yes the earlier models had a key to deactivate the passenger airbag in the same spot..

 

isnt one the those plugs power and one speaker wires?

 

i followed the second one (unknown) back into the dash, and it feels like they all go to the aux plug... there can only be 3 wires in use though, because the 3.5mm plugs (which is what is in my dash) are a tip-ring-collar plug... so i'm wondering what the other 2 wires are for, and which colors they are, if i can find out which wire does which, i can re-wire it myself...

i might be able to, using an old pair of headphones and a test light...

 

i should have looked how mine is hooked up last night when i had my deck out, but i know i cant use my stock aux jack (i turned it into a fog light switch anyways) but i know there is only one plug going into my new radio

 

hmmm, i'm going to make this work... i'll get the supplies i need for when i install my sub, i'll have to pull the deck again, to get the rca's up the the back of the deck...

 

did your truck have the sirius radio in it? mine came with it and that wouldnt work either, that could maybe be it? i think its just the aux plug though. cos all the speaker/power wires and everything are all in the main harness that goes into the deck

 

no, it didn't have the satelite radio, new deck is in, works, 1 plug only... i am going to try to install sub and amp tomorrow... how do you guys have them bolted in? just screwed right through the floor or...

i want to put my amp under the pass seat, and the sub under the rear pass seat, making custom box, i think the sub i have is too deep though... so i'm going back to future shop to return it tomorrow and buy a new one...

anyone know what the distance below the rear seats when they are down? the sub i have is a 10 inch alpine type s 4ohm (sws-1043d) and requires a 1.0 cubic foot box (sealed)

 

i dont know the stats on that sub but i know that amp is powerful and rated for the type R alpine sub (500W RMS at 4 Ohms) But i may be wrong, just something to look into so you don't blow your brand new sub...

 

the only thing that would fit under a jump seat is one of those shallow-mount subs. I used to have a 10" sub in my truck, just pulled a jump seat and made my box to fit in that area and bolted into where the jump seat was. worked out pretty well.

 

I replaced all the plastic from the back wall of the cab with 3/4 inch MDF, then carpeted it. Everything is bolted to that amps included.



No more driver's side jump seat or jack mount though.

 

i took the one i had back, and got a mtx thunder 65 shallow mount 10", the dimentions on one side of the seat, are... 7 inches between the seat and the floor (at the seat's lowest point) 16 inches between the rear wall, and the passenger seat, when it's all the way back, and 21 inches, from drive shaft hump to door jam, the optimum outside dimentions of a box, for this sub is 6 1/2X15X19 1/2... how much of a coincidence is that?

here are the pics of the box so far... i kinda over engineered it though, way more screws than i needed. it's got screws, brad nails, and a silicone sealant in all the joints









this is the sub



except mine is 4ohm

 

hey i modded my aux for my new head unit...its really easy pop out the factory plug . go to radio shack get a headphone jack extension cord with a fat round female end put superglue on it and cram it through from the back mines been in for over a month and i can push on it really hard and it doesnt come out.

 

hmmm i might do that, it's easier than what i had planned to do, how did you remove your old plug? just pull or...

 

box is in the paintshop right now (read my f*cking cold *** garage!) it's -28 outside, i have a small space heater in an insulated garage... but the paint seems to be adhering not to bad...

after the wood filler has all been sanded down, just before painting



after first coat of paint, waiting for second

 

the old plug was just clipped in the back of the round part

 

Just speculating here because I haven't taken mine apart yet, but it could be that two of those wires are for the switch that detects the presence of a phono plug in the aux jack. When you plug something in, the factory head unit "knows" and cycles through that option when you hit the AUX button.

 

hmmm, ,maybe, that is a good thought... i did the mod that dan, right above you there, listed

i don't have any pics of my new head unit yet, but here is what i do have!

first, the new sub in the new box (the hand print is because the box was in the truck, in -30 weather, then into a warm house, and i put my hand on it to see if the paint was dry, which it was, and the hand print is not there, just condensation or w/e...


amp in place (not bolted or wired) where it will be located, pass seat all the way fwd


first placement, wires not yet run or hidden...


same, different angle




since those pics were taken, the amp has been completely wired up, the only things left to do are
1) bolt amp down
2) install inline fuse to power cord
3) hook positive cable to battery
4) drill 1 1/4 hole in side of speaker box for connector plate (http://www.jpelectron.com/surplus/3%...s,%20round.jpg)
5) install above mentioned connector plate
6) wire sub to above mentioned plate
7) bolt sub box to floor of truck (using 2x 1/4 inch bolts through floor)
8) bolt sub to box