i have a Power Acoustik Fubar 12" sub it can take 1800 watts and it hits pretty hard.. but the Power acoustik amp i have doesnt have enuf power, so i have fried a few..

anyways.. if u do your research.. unlike me :( u should do pretty good, alpine is where im goin.

 

OOOOOOORRRRR ask around on caraudio.com/forums and they can suggest enclosure volumes for free and do the calculations and such for you. the best part is is that its FREE. u need to do some searching for amps and such. we can suggest many many amps that would work. us amps, hifonics, and on and on.

 

thanxs guys

 

I agree with Kyle - and actually i just bought a 10w3v3, lol. From my experience they may not be the LOUDEST, but they have great sound 'quality', and thats what means the most to me - i could care less who can hear me from 2 miles away.

 

could, that is a possibility, but then again they are just relying on factory specs, anyone can make a 1cubic foot box (example), but its the design of that box that makes the difference.

there was some discussion on the TeamToxicBase forums about online calculators and how they really offer no more help to building a great enclosure than what the manufacture already suggest. They just help to exemplify them.

And, Petes set of dimensions, designed specifically for your subwoofer, around your vehicles frequency peaks and your given available dimensions, only cost $30. Which I think would be one of the first and most important expenses in building an system. The box makes the system. So why skimp on spending money on a proper enclosure if you're going to spend relatively big money on a sub, amp, head unit, and wiring.

If you or anyone were local, Id make a friendly wager of $30 that my box, based on Petes specs, will trump anyone elses box built to manufacture spec, in SQ, and SPL for any given 10" subwoofer, or set of 10"s and/or 12's

 

yes the manufacture does estimate and average alot but you can still make a good box and if you ask the right people then they mite help once he figures out the sub then he can just get on there or here nad ask around. the 30 dollars would be worth it but he can save that and buy his MDF board. i am not saying dont do it, just look and ask around first.

 

thats what I'm trying to do, be his help. Pete is an accoustical engineer, you wont find a better source of information or knowledge, there really is no reason to ask anywhere else.

Saving $30 is ok I guess, but the enclosure is not where I'd be skimping.
I'd rather spend the extra $30, and make a thousand dollar system sound incredible. Rather than skimp on the box, and make that thousand dollar system sound like a $399 special from Best Buy.


I guess I don't understand why anyone would compromise and settle for a "good box", when for a very relativly cheap expense, one could have the best box possible for their sub/dimensions.

If it were me, I'd rather save that $30 on the head unit, buy a different name brand or model thats $30 cheaper. I'd be more impressed to hear a sub run on 500watts wanging louder with more clarity than a sub that someone has to run 1,000watts through to acheive meager results.

I used to think manufacture spec boxes were a requirement to get the sub to sound the best. And I used to come on forums asking these types of questions as well.
But I have learned, and thats why I'm trying deter him from using factory specs to build or have someone design a box to be built for that sub.

Just trying to save him from futile and needless research.

And save the $30 to buy the materials for the box? In the total price of the system, does that really sound like the best idea? Whats another $30 after the amount of money you/he has already spent.

Again, one could spend alot of money and have a "good" system. Or one could spend that little bit extra, and have the best possible system for their truck.

 

yes he is probably good in box design and acoustics. im not saying he is not. What im sayin is that 30 dollars can be justified many many ways. I understand exactly what you are saying. 30 dollars can be the difference b/w equilizer bands and such or another amp. many people kno how to build boxes the right way. every part of an audio system is just about equaly important to research. The box can make or break a system but so can the sub, wiring, h/u amp, etc. I wouldnt skimp on n e of it. you could make a sony xplod **** but stick a tc or re in there and it would **** even harder. you cant put everything and blame everything on one part. everything has to function and work together. thats is what i was trying to get at.

 

Im not blaming anyone part on a systems output, yes it all has to work together.

Though, if you want the best output from your sub you should not build your box to a manufactures sealed or ported dimensions.

Buy the best H/U, amp, wireing, and sub, only to go with a generic box?

Ever hear "your only as strong as your weakest link".

And, Id hate to disagree, but switching subs between the same enclosure and saying one ***** harder than the other is entirely against what I've been trying to educate on. A box, built for one sub, will not perform the same with another. Yes it could be better for the other sub, but its not built for it, and will have difference frequency peaks. And, that fact we are using this as an example tells me this hypothetical box is either a homemade box or a prefab box. And I wont even get into how crap a prefab box is.

And honestly, its $30, why would anyone try to save that little amount when looking over the whole skeem of things if they are trying to get the most for their money?


Im repeatedly repeating myself in this thread, I'm bowing out, because ultimately its his truck.

 

think of it this way, dose this guy that you metioned know what is the best for each car/truck/van/suv? what if he has different accoustial differences? not saying that he is not good. but i doubt he is omnipotent in the realm of box building, noone is. i could name a few people that could whip up a box for a ranger that is as good as this guy probally, (and me not being one of them) and would do them for free. last time i checked ca.com forums alot of people were charging for box plans.

anywho, you never really told us some important factors. such as price, what kind of sound you are going for (spl, loudness, or SQ, sound quailty). and what music you listen to. what gear do you already have, is soundeading an option?

a few good brands that i have owned, Stereo Integerity, RE audio,
a few good brands that i have heared, Adire, JL, Dayton loudspeaker (partsexpress.com) heard 8 of there 15" dvc tuned to 21 hz in a van it and was super clean. they are also very nicely priced as well.
and i have heard lots of good things about FI, and aduioques

And kicker gets honarable mention in my book, i had a pair of comp vr 10's in a prefab box and it was alrgiht.

RE's prices have gone thru the roof. so they are out the window in the price listing. as well as JL is very pricey.

 

Yes he does. His own developed software and the commercially available software he uses in combination with that accounts for specific vehicle accoustics.

on edit: go HERE for a flash video introduction of all the various types of enclosures that can be built to a subs specs. Way more than your basic generic sealed, ported and prefabs out there.

 

If anyone is interested I'm trying to sell my RE SX 12" dual 2 ohm...??? I think I'm upgrading to an FI BTL12. I have an enclosed box and I'm really not giving my SX the potential it could have...

 

do you know how big ABC boxes and horns have to be just for a single 12?

sure you can run transmission line boxes and all kinds of other ones, you have to be exactly right on all the measurements and building parts or you mess up the whole design

ive seen 4th order bandpasses before, but they are nothing special to me, ill keep my regular ported box

team toxic can make stuff loud though no doubt, i still remember watching their video of the SS XXX's in a wall, it was a TL box too i think

 

i went with the Kicker CVR. it hits great, and sounds awesome.
its the best sub i could get for under 120.
800 watts / 400 RMS.

 

Yes I know how big they have to be, but then again the back area of our extended cabs are large enough for either.

I plan on one 10" for my daily, will be plenty of SQL for me. I'm not saying these boxes are for everyone, but building a sealed box is anything but great these days. And, if going ported, why not get the best design possible?