Rinconmanof90's 2010 build
I got a lot of progress made on the box today. :)
Buss bars and batteries in the box in the truck

Port rounded over on the edges

Expanding foam in back corner of my floor to seal it up

Bolt terminals on the back of the box


The box sitting in the truck. :) :)
Buss bars and batteries in the box in the truck

Port rounded over on the edges

Expanding foam in back corner of my floor to seal it up

Bolt terminals on the back of the box


The box sitting in the truck. :) :)
Last edited by rinconmanof90; Mar 3, 2010 at 06:58 PM.
Redrebel, im ready to see some hairtricks also. :)
love the idea and love the pics i do have a question though how do your remove the rear door panel I've been trying to replace my seat belt but I'm afraid I'll break a clip or something when i go to remove the panel.
You have to pull on it hard. I broke a few of my clips off. It is on tight. LOL
I got some resin on my battery box lid and got my batts hooked up.

Front buss bars


The batteries in the back. The other 8 wires that are not connected or for the amps. Im not gona hook them up until i get the amps and subs.

Front buss bars


The batteries in the back. The other 8 wires that are not connected or for the amps. Im not gona hook them up until i get the amps and subs.
Using an aluminum buss bar and aluminum angle iron to link the batteries? Aluminum is a terrible conductor compared to steel or something with more nickel in it. I'm just saying I don't want to see something bad happen.
Anyways, the build looks amazing. Can't wait to see some window/door flex!
Anyways, the build looks amazing. Can't wait to see some window/door flex!
Yes, Its better than steel, and copper.... ( I work with equipment in the 3000 - 5000 volt range, all the bus bars are aluminum )


















