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Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 02-24-2012
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Icon4 Stay Tuned for build

As much as I tried to ignore it, I finally admitted to myself that the stock audio system in my 03 XLT needed to go. I've done installs before on my other vehicles and I was able to get some very good sound with some short money. I sat down and made up some main objectives of the new setup before I started to plunk down the cash:

1.Cost - Under $500
2.Quality - Decent gear, nothing to cheap but I don't need competition stereo stuff.
a. Head unit must have 24 Bit DAC
3.Stock Appearance - No cutting door panels or any other permanent alterations.
a. Speakers will be full range with 90+Db sensitivity and Freq response 50-20,000 Hz.
4.Function - Jump seats remain and will function and if in use amp won't be in danger of being damaged.
a. Amp will be mounted in a way that won't require drilling into floor/body.
5. Improve interior acoustics - Sound dampening for doors.

All I have left to get now is the amp and maybe a little more mat for the doors. Here's whats on the way to date. Prices include shipping.

Head Unit JVC KD-HDR44 Cost: $82.95
Head Install Kit Metra $14.00
Speakers Kicker 11DS68 $89.95
Mat Fatmat $32.99
Amp Kit KnuKonceptz $36.99*

__________
$252.88


* Bought an additional 20' of speaker cable and additional RCA cable.

I'm currently looking at getting a 4 channel amp. The two I have looked at are;

- ROCKFORD FOSGATE R300-4
- Orion Cobalt CO6004

I would appreciate anyones thoughts on my amp choices or if they know another quality amp for a full range set up.
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2012
Ford04Ranger4.0's Avatar
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Location: Plattsburgh, New York
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You buying from www.soniceletronix.com?
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  #3  
Old 02-24-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford04Ranger4.0 View Post
You buying from www.soniceletronix.com?

No, why?
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2012
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I like the concept. Most people think you have to pay big money to have a good sounding system, That's defiantly not the case. I would like to help out, if you don't mind me offering suggestions.
I'm into audio big time and the less i have to spend on it the better.

Here is my opinion, take it or leave it.

1) focus on the front stage. if your going to go subless your going to need large speakers, forget the rears. The doors will need deadend and sealed. shoehorn the largest mids you can find. put reaching 50hz at the back of your mind unless you like to listen at low volume. make 80hz or higher your goal. Your going to have to rely on your hearing's ability to fill in the low notes, its an odd thing but its real. cabin gain helps this too. you're going to need plenty of power for the fronts. I would run around 100w per channel.

2) Allocate most of your money towards the front speakers, power for them, and acoustic treatments for them. You absolutely need to plug up the gaps in the door to coax the bass from the mids.

3) Do not use fatmat, it does not stick well and provides very little if any benefit. Use a few square ft of dynamat extreme or second skin. They should be the same price, you may get less sqft but it works much better. you only need about 4 sqft to stop the doors from resonating.

4) if your going to run low cost speakers you need to have sound shaping abilities, this means finding a eq with at many bands as you can get, either featured in the headunit or a cheap external one. A equalizer will make up for any short comings that low cost speakers may or may not have.

If you would like more suggestions, there's more. If not then don't mind me. you've hit on something that i'm very interested in and would really like to help.
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
I like the concept. Most people think you have to pay big money to have a good sounding system, That's defiantly not the case. I would like to help out, if you don't mind me offering suggestions.
I'm into audio big time and the less i have to spend on it the better.

Here is my opinion, take it or leave it.

1) focus on the front stage. if your going to go subless your going to need large speakers, forget the rears. The doors will need deadend and sealed. shoehorn the largest mids you can find. put reaching 50hz at the back of your mind unless you like to listen at low volume. make 80hz or higher your goal. Your going to have to rely on your hearing's ability to fill in the low notes, its an odd thing but its real. cabin gain helps this too. you're going to need plenty of power for the fronts. I would run around 100w per channel.

2) Allocate most of your money towards the front speakers, power for them, and acoustic treatments for them. You absolutely need to plug up the gaps in the door to coax the bass from the mids.

3) Do not use fatmat, it does not stick well and provides very little if any benefit. Use a few square ft of dynamat extreme or second skin. They should be the same price, you may get less sqft but it works much better. you only need about 4 sqft to stop the doors from resonating.

4) if your going to run low cost speakers you need to have sound shaping abilities, this means finding a eq with at many bands as you can get, either featured in the headunit or a cheap external one. A equalizer will make up for any short comings that low cost speakers may or may not have.

If you would like more suggestions, there's more. If not then don't mind me. you've hit on something that i'm very interested in and would really like to help.
Thanks for the reply... All the stuff I listed is already on the way so I might be stuck. I don't listen at high levels so I don't think my cheap set up should be too bad but we will see. Bummer on the Fatmat. I used Dynamat on a previous truck and all I could remember that it cost me a ton to do the whole cab. Hopefully this will work ok and if not... lesson learned. I like the EQ idea but I don't think I have room unless I can find a shelf like I use to have in my Dakota.
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2012
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Started on the false floor today and got most of it roughed in. You can move the seat back to it's farthest position without hitting the floor which is just the way I wanted it. Don't know about other year Ranger's but the back of the cab is very uneven. Used MDF for the top and 2X4's to brace it but not box it in for better airflow from under the seat. I've decided to use 2"X2" braces for the amp shelf to allow for the uneven floor so it sits level.

Still waiting on a few odds and ends to come in which is cool as I'm leaving to go out of town for a few days. I'll get back on it this time next week and finish it up.
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