Any rotary polisher users here? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 06-25-2006
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Any rotary polisher users here?

Just curious? I have a Makita 9227c polisher and love it! one of my better investements i ever made! I've had mine for about about 2 years and have yet to burn paint or cause a mishap with it. Chime in! -Mike-
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Old 06-25-2006
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I've got a makita. Different model number from yours.
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Old 06-25-2006
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i would be afraid to use it.

i do all mine by hand. sucks but i know i wont screw it up.
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Old 06-25-2006
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Mine has an adjustable dial on it so I can spin it SLOOOOOWWW. Haven't used it on the truck yet, but I have some scratches waiting on it.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2006
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I have a makita. i don't know my model number, but it's makita green, has an adjustable speed range of 1300 to 3500RPM i think. I've burned paint a few times with it, and it's always a mirror or back bumper. I try to get that little scratch out, and burn it. I use wool pads, with either Blue coral Velvet cut[cutting compound] or Steven's car care one-step [cleaner wax/polish/swirl removing... stuff]
I have never been afraid to buff something since my first day at work[4yrs ago], the 2 years i had a little experience with, hated using it.
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Old 06-27-2006
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understandable about new comers and there feelings towards rotaries.

One of your problems in using a wool pad. The generate more heat than that of foam and have the most cutting action of all pads. There easy to use because they glide nicely over the paint which allows for more control but you sacrifice show quality buffed paint for ease of use. Wool pads make little tiny swirls of there own due to there aggressive cutting action.

I use Meguiars foam pads personally and love them! They make the rotary jump around alittle but if you clay before you polish, that makes life alittle easier.

Sorry to sound like a detailing tuturial teacher, lol! Just sharing my knowledge.

I usually run my rotary between 1000 and 1500RPM at max! I never go over 1500 unless i use it for grinding, sanding etc... One other tip i recently learned is to hold the pad at a slight angle just barely enough so both sides of the spinning surface where it comes into contact with the paint, it doesn't make the rotary jump around as much. I have yet to try this so i can't say much. Not saying it's good or bad, i just don't know yet. Ok I'm done, lol! -Mike-
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Old 06-27-2006
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I have one lol...
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Old 06-28-2006
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Does buffing with a rotary really make alot of difference? I can't seem to find a wax that stays on for more than a week or so...at least that is what it seems like. One day of pretty paint and then back to the dull shine. :(
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Old 06-28-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hefavitzen
Does buffing with a rotary really make alot of difference? I can't seem to find a wax that stays on for more than a week or so...at least that is what it seems like. One day of pretty paint and then back to the dull shine. :(
When a rotary is properly used, the shine is awesome! A smooth slick surface, wet look shine that's ready for waxing. Keep in mind, a rotary is better off left in the hands of a serious enthusiast or professional.

While the rotary is a great tool for both perfectionists and production detailers, it can be dangerous. Your no smarter than the rotary, so respect it and it will respect you and reward you. It may sound nerve racking at first when using a rotary for the first time, but using common sense, keep the rotary moving in a smooth steady back and forth motion and you'll be just fine!

As far as waxing goes, there are some waxes for production work that can be used with a rotary but i don't reccommend it. I'd rather just wax by hand or an orbital machine. Hope this helps! -Mike-
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Old 06-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike9825
One of your problems in using a wool pad. The generate more heat than that of foam and have the most cutting action of all pads. There easy to use because they glide nicely over the paint which allows for more control but you sacrifice show quality buffed paint for ease of use. Wool pads make little tiny swirls of there own due to there aggressive cutting action.
I use Meguiars foam pads personally and love them! They make the rotary jump around alittle but if you clay before you polish, that makes life alittle easier.
Have you ever tried to buff painted plastic, even with perfect brand new "polishing" pads, paint burns 3 times quicker on plastic then metal with a foam pad. I've never burned paint on a metal surface, ever. Plastic, a few times. Both with foam pads and wool pads. And with wool pads, it took a lot longer to do so at the same speed during a test on a junkyard bound car.
And if you know your products and how to use a wool pad, it can look better, and last longer then a car buffed with a foam pad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike9825
One other tip i recently learned is to hold the pad at a slight angle just barely enough so both sides of the spinning surface where it comes into contact with the paint, it doesn't make the rotary jump around as much. I have yet to try this so i can't say much. Not saying it's good or bad, i just don't know yet. Ok I'm done, lol! -Mike-

What do you mean there? in the last line. Both sides of the spinning surface?
I know to keep it slightly angled to pick up the side you won't be using to actaully buff. But if i'm using our buff on cleaner/polish, it's usually high speed like 2300rpm, and the pad it somewhat flat, because all i'm doing is coating the paint with this product, and just slightly working it off.I leave about half of it on. It makes it alot easier then having to compound all the small scratches out. Then i use the same product with the random orbital, this will elimante any swirls, and give everything a nice even coverage.


not to sound like i'm a smartass, but i've been detailing for sometime at the same place, i've outlasted 40+ other detailers/porters. Been trained by 7 different people. I had 1 person intially train me to be a porter when i started, then i had gained skill within 6 months to be at the same level as him when he was a detailer for 3 years, then i was promoted and sent to our detail shop, where another guy with 11 years trained me. Few body guys showed me how to get them deep scratches out, and been sent to "seminars" and such. And i was "trained" 2 weeks ago by our new chemical supplier, on how to use his waxes, compounds[in which are junk] and his methods to getting cars out.
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2006
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I used the adjustable Makita when I detailed for a Honda dealer....I love it. The fact that you can adjust it makes it really nice.
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2006
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I used a big fat Dewalt when I detailed for a Jeep dealer and I have a nice heavy duty Milwalkie at home. I typically just use 3m pads and have never burnt the paint. The pads just have a tendancy to get thing at the edge of the backing disk.
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meemooer
Have you ever tried to buff painted plastic, even with perfect brand new "polishing" pads, paint burns 3 times quicker on plastic then metal with a foam pad. I've never burned paint on a metal surface, ever. Plastic, a few times. Both with foam pads and wool pads. And with wool pads, it took a lot longer to do so at the same speed during a test on a junkyard bound car.
And if you know your products and how to use a wool pad, it can look better, and last longer then a car buffed with a foam pad.




What do you mean there? in the last line. Both sides of the spinning surface?
I know to keep it slightly angled to pick up the side you won't be using to actaully buff. But if i'm using our buff on cleaner/polish, it's usually high speed like 2300rpm, and the pad it somewhat flat, because all i'm doing is coating the paint with this product, and just slightly working it off.I leave about half of it on. It makes it alot easier then having to compound all the small scratches out. Then i use the same product with the random orbital, this will elimante any swirls, and give everything a nice even coverage.


not to sound like i'm a smartass, but i've been detailing for sometime at the same place, i've outlasted 40+ other detailers/porters. Been trained by 7 different people. I had 1 person intially train me to be a porter when i started, then i had gained skill within 6 months to be at the same level as him when he was a detailer for 3 years, then i was promoted and sent to our detail shop, where another guy with 11 years trained me. Few body guys showed me how to get them deep scratches out, and been sent to "seminars" and such. And i was "trained" 2 weeks ago by our new chemical supplier, on how to use his waxes, compounds[in which are junk] and his methods to getting cars out.
That's what i meant about the pad, don't keep the pad flat to the surface. Lift 1 side of the pad like you mentioned. I just didn't know how to word it, brainfart.

Sounds like you really know your stuff man. I've never used a wool pad on a rotary because of fear for there aggressive cutting action. I fail to see how foam can create more heat if they have less cutting action than wool. I suppose the foam pads can hold heat more because there not as open and spreaded out like wool if you will therefore radiating heat better(wool) am I right?

wow 2300RPM? i wouldn't even dream of taking mine to even 1700 or closer to 2000. I feel i have more control with lower RPM and i don't have as much experience as you, that's just me though. -Mike-
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  #14  
Old 07-06-2006
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i have a big DeWalt Buffer thats adjustable from 1000-3000 rpm. it works killer although its a touch heavy. good ol DW849.

i love the Meguirs foam pads as well, although i have some wool pads as well. both from Meguirs and (bah!) Schlegal. they all have their own place.

as far as compounds i prefer 3Ms Perfect It II compound (#05973 for a quart)and their Perfect It II glazes (#5996 for dark colors... it works well for most though). I like Meguirs more for wax especially their Gold Class or even the basic Hi Tech Yellow Wax (#26 i believe?)
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