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  #1  
Old 10-14-2017
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Porcelain protection for paint?

I recently had my truck painted and they did a really nice job. I'm looking for paint protection products. I was told of a 5 step process called the porcelain protection. It could be called something else for all I know. It's supposed to be guaranteed for life etc..I'd appreciate any feedback if you are familiar with paint protection. I was also told to look into a polyglycol? It's a nice paint job and i want to protect it and keep it shiny.

thank you for reading.
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Old 10-14-2017
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There are video about this, here's just one....
My advise to you is wait for at least 6 months for the paint to harden and cure before applying anything, even just simple wax.
The thinners in your new paint are still escaping and the paint itself needs to harden up.

There's always some new thing coming out that promises the world, but in the end the best thing IMO is to keep it out of the sun and weather if you want the paint to last, even parking it a simple car port is good enough as long as the sun isn't on it.

All this BS about the "once a year car polish" and the adverts where the guy takes a blow torch and a laser after applying the product....
I don't see this ceramic coating stuff as anything different.

Think about it, ceramics or porcelain is to do with pottery and that's baked in a kiln at around 2000 degrees and more.
The industry would have you believe that there is a product that has a porcelain coating that is applied out of a bottle.
I think it's just a bunch of marketing hype.

Just do what I suggested and wax it every 6 months.
Keep it clean and don't use a pressure washer, even a low volume one.
The harsh stream of water wears the paint out.

Using a bucket of soapy water isn't good either.
As you wash the dirt off, the dirt collects in you bucket of soapy water.
You the scratch the paint by re-introducing the dirt back onto you rag when you go into your bucket again.

In the winter, don't leave the snow on it, the snow traps water when it melts and freezes and keeps a constant film of water next to the paint.
This film also refreezes right next to surface, this expansion of freezing water causes premature wear _ makes it dull.

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Old 10-15-2017
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My painter said 3 months before a surface protectant. I still need to watch the video. The porcelain is out of my price range I'm sure. The polyglycol is supposed to be around $250. I could swing that. I'm always a protection overkill guy. I always try to keep things like brand new. My cell phone has skin protection and a rugged case too as just an example. I usually go beyond manufactures recommendations. My previous vehicles always have my friends asking how I get them so shiny and how I keep them looking that way. I'll watch the video and report back. Thank you for a thoural response
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Old 10-15-2017
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After watching the video, it does do what I was told. Here is an image of my truck. I'd like keep it looking this way. I spent a lot of money getting it painted so I think I'll look into this more. Thank you for the video.
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  #5  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Eddie Money View Post
After watching the video, it does do what I was told. Here is an image of my truck. I'd like keep it looking this way. I spent a lot of money getting it painted so I think I'll look into this more. Thank you for the video.
Definitely wait for your paint to cure before putting anything on your paint. Follow the recommendation of your painter for how long that is.

Most semi-permanent coatings are just a resin of some kind suspended in a solvent. That solvent evaporates after application and leaves the resin in a thin layer on your paint. The different names (ceramic, quartz, porcelain, etc..) are mostly marketing buzz words. There is nothing magical about coatings but some coatings actually do work. By work I mean they last a year or two before needing to be re-applied versus a wax (even a good one like Collinite 845) which needs to be re-applied every couple to a few months. If you want a recommendation I've personally used the McKee's 37 paint coating because I read good things about it and it was cheap (like $35 for enough to do multiple vehicles) and easy. I used their old formula and it has lasted well over a year on my truck. Apparently they have a new formula out that's even better: https://www.theartofcleanliness.com/...g-new-formula/

You'd probably have better luck asking about stuff like this on sites like autogeek online or autopia where they live and breath obsessive paint care.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Doesn't matter what you see or what they say, any of these super long lasting paint protection 'schemes' are all BS.

It's not how things work, even thick clear paint protecting plastic only lasts a few years depending on type of driving and how much etc.

Anyway, wait the time given by the paint shop for off gassing, as how they finished the job is what dictates that time.
After that, look into a sealant and top with a wax if you want a glossier look - wash lightly and frequently, re apply sealant or a strong wax every few months depending on expected duration of product.

Most of these expensive 'last for ever' type coatings reference (but don't tell of) how long their product can be detected on the paint, not how long it's effective for.
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  #7  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Thanks for all the info guys. I get my truck back from the paint shop today. I wasn't happy with it last week so fingers crossed. I priced the porcelain protection at a local car salon. Lol that just sounds funny. $1700. Wow, just wow!!! This must be the 5 year and includes paint correction as they call it. I'm guessing that includes the annual touch ups required to maintain the 5 year warranty. If not I'm in the wrong business. Lol. I think I'll try it on my wheels first. I heard it's about $300 for a set. I have the honey comb style factory alloys wheels which are one of the cooler factory wheels but the hardest to keep clean.
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  #8  
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If your alloy wheels are good, then it may be worth it.
Unprotected alloy wheels in your neck of the woods don't fair very well.

My boss has a 4-Runner and it gets driven all year round, so they get a snoot full of salt and snow.
She doesn't look after the wheels though, in the winter one almost has to wash them down daily and spray some sort of oil on them to keep the corrosion at bay.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Serious, my opinion is don't bother with this stuff. It doesn't do what they say it does especially for the price.

More specifically, you can just use a good lasting 'sealant' or even a specific wheel sealant on your wheels if you want. It's all the same stuff.

Don't waste you money.
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  #10  
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If I spent that much on a product and the rain stopped beading after 6 or 9 months, I would want my money back.
I wonder if they would guaranty it on older paint where it was worn a bit ???
The paint on the roof of my B3000 is 18 years old and it does not "bead" anymore.
If I wax it, it beads for about a couple of months and the weather washes it all off.

I would expect these fancy new coatings to at least last a year.

Like that sales crap in the orange bottle _ "the once a year car polish" _ that was a crock of ****.
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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Yup, it's all a crock of ****

New paint doesn't bead, it's all the product on top of it, which is very thin (needs to be) and that obviously wears out as it's abraded through natural use.
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I'll disagree with you on that one, new paint does bead.
I've had first hand experience with new paint.

But left to the weather, the initial shine wears off in about 2 to 5 years, depending on what part of the planet you live in and how well you keep your truck out of the weather.

This idiot across the street bought a bran new "BLACK" Mustang, doesn't look after it at all.
Leaves it outside all year round in the snow too.
The black paint lost its beading capability in about 2 years.
It was still shiny, but it was "etched" and the water stops beading.

Now after many years, it's starting to look dull.
I saw his girl friend wash it once the whole time that he's had the car.
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  #13  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Hmm, i'd question the new paint part, only because part of finishing new paint is using a compound on it, which will add 'protection' to it, causing beading.
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  #14  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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My interest in this is to care for, maintain, and keep clean the exterior. if I spend $300 a year to have the exterior and wheels professionally cleaned once a year for 5 years = $1500 + several car washes over that period. If I spend $1700 and only need to rinse my truck with a hose and dry with shammy for 5 years im going with the later. I dont have the free time for waxing and frequent washes but I still want a clean truck. These protectants are more hydrophobic and last longer than a wax and are essentially a sealant.


C9, porcelain, and ceramic has several levels of price and protection. The five year requires an annual check up to maintain the warranty. If it needs or gets another application I'm sure it's taken care of at that time.

On weekends I'm working on home improvements and trying to keep up on the yard work. If I ever get the house finished and the yard down to minimal maintenance, I'd love to spend my weekends polishing my truck. Those are my goals by the way. Lol. Trying to avoid major home repairs in my twilight and getting the yard easy enough that an old man can do it.
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Your call, but as you stated your main goal, i can only say, take it to a car wash, and you'll suffer, it'll destroy it, worst invention ever if you care about your finish.
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Originally Posted by MaDMaXX View Post
Your call, but as you stated your main goal, i can only say, take it to a car wash, and you'll suffer, it'll destroy it, worst invention ever if you care about your finish.
well max, I started this thread to get more information. Since then I've done some more looking myself as well. I wouldn't say I am fully educated on this yet. I really appreciate your contribution and am greatful you have engaged in this discussion. So if you dont mind id like to get more details from you.

I am still fighting with the body shop to deliver my truck free of defects in workmanship. Getting my truck painted was supposed to be a long over due reward for using it as a work vehicle for my employer for 7 years. It has been more of a 4 month nightmare that doesnt seem like it will end as i wanted. But I cover this in another thread on another forum if anyones interested ill post the link.

http://www.rangerforum.com/threads/inspecting-a-paint-job.10448/

So max, given my busy schedule and my desire to care for my investment and my wish to drive a clean vehicle with minimal maintenance. What products do you use or recommend, as specifically as you can without violating the forums guide lines.

The porcelain protection was recommended by the paint shop but they also recommended a polyglycol sealant as a less expensive alternative. The paint shop recommended the porcelain from a personal experience. A customer left their car at his shop and it sat for 3 weeks collecting dirt and dust from the body shop. It is a white Buick. He was washing down the parking in front of his shop and out of curiosity he started rinsing the Buick. In 5-10 min the car looked like he just washed it. That impressed him enough to recommend it.

I have waxed plenty of cars and trucks. I know when, and how to apply wax and have had great results. The con for waxing, for me is getting it out of all the nooks n crannys and not getting it on places you don't want it. I don't want to have to break out the toothbrush or tape everything off. The longest I've had a wax last has been about 6 months. Which ever product i choose I'd prefer to have a professional do the job and enjoy the end result.

I also work with sealants in my profession and am aware environment plays a big roll in how long they last. From the articles I read and the videos I watch the porcelain does what I want.

I do appreciate you trying to save me money and prevent me from making a mistakes but I'm missing your point. Are you saying the product rinses off? Or wears out prematurely? And are you saying it doesn't stay on as long as advertised?

If it's hydrophobic, repels dirt, protects against uv, and maintains its luster, what's not to like besides the high upfront cost. Especially when washing and waxing will cost the same over time and require a lot more up keep?

I know you are opposed to the porcelain but I'm not completely clear why. Is the car wash going to destroy the paint or the sealant or both?

thank you in advance

Last edited by Eddie Money; 1 Week Ago at 10:11 PM.
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No problem, first off, i will preface this with the fact i do not like the business of "multi year, no maintenance" coatings - as a general rule, they're BS, so i am biased.

I'm sorry to see you're suffering at the hands of a bodyshop, it's not uncommon and i hate that too - quality paint is a really skilled and laborious job, not everyone has all the skills, and even when they do, and mess up (because human) the amount of work (a *LOT*) to completely re-do it all, is something they try very hard to avoid.

Active forums right now are here, and a new one https://ford-rangers.com/ - i'll take a read of that thread later when i have a little more time.

I use mostly (but not entirely) stuff from my home country, i really like Bilt Hamber stuff and still order it to here - my go-to LSP is Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax, which, like a lot of LSP's these days, is a blend of sealant and Carnauba - it has crazy hydrophobic beading and will last up to 6 months. https://www.bilthamber.com/

If you have any product (that isn't a niché speciality product) that causes issues when on black trim or anywhere else, stop using it, no product has needed to do that in a *long* time, everything will just wipe off with zero effort or product.

You have some experience in the longevity factors, so i i won't go into that, but i will say that things like car washes or using too harsh of a shampoo will also wear down LSP's.
Oh, re the carwash, it'll screw the LSP and the paint finish, i will never use them, and that includes all types, as well as "touchless".


Unfortunately, paint, as a "thing" is a pain in the **** - as yo'ure finding out, it's most likely your current issue was caused by less than ideal prepartaion - if you ever see an amazing paint job, the prep work was hardest and most laborious stage.

Like painting, your LSP quality and longevity is massively influenced by the prep work - believe it or not, you can easily halve the life of an LSP by poor or no prep before application. Additionally you can end up with something that looks pretty poor too, leading you to really dislike the LSP you chose.
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Originally Posted by MaDMaXX View Post
No problem, first off, i will preface this with the fact i do not like the business of "multi year, no maintenance" coatings - as a general rule, they're BS, so i am biased.

I'm sorry to see you're suffering at the hands of a bodyshop, it's not uncommon and i hate that too - quality paint is a really skilled and laborious job, not everyone has all the skills, and even when they do, and mess up (because human) the amount of work (a *LOT*) to completely re-do it all, is something they try very hard to avoid.

Active forums right now are here, and a new one https://ford-rangers.com/ - i'll take a read of that thread later when i have a little more time.

I use mostly (but not entirely) stuff from my home country, i really like Bilt Hamber stuff and still order it to here - my go-to LSP is Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax, which, like a lot of LSP's these days, is a blend of sealant and Carnauba - it has crazy hydrophobic beading and will last up to 6 months. https://www.bilthamber.com/

If you have any product (that isn't a niché speciality product) that causes issues when on black trim or anywhere else, stop using it, no product has needed to do that in a *long* time, everything will just wipe off with zero effort or product.

You have some experience in the longevity factors, so i i won't go into that, but i will say that things like car washes or using too harsh of a shampoo will also wear down LSP's.
Oh, re the carwash, it'll screw the LSP and the paint finish, i will never use them, and that includes all types, as well as "touchless".


Unfortunately, paint, as a "thing" is a pain in the **** - as yo'ure finding out, it's most likely your current issue was caused by less than ideal prepartaion - if you ever see an amazing paint job, the prep work was hardest and most laborious stage.

Like painting, your LSP quality and longevity is massively influenced by the prep work - believe it or not, you can easily halve the life of an LSP by poor or no prep before application. Additionally you can end up with something that looks pretty poor too, leading you to really dislike the LSP you chose.

thanks for the info. I'm guessing by your user name you home country is Australia? Lots of interesting variations of American vehicles there. Thanks for the link to the forum. I've been using 5 different ranger forums trying to find the active ones.
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Haha, no just a combo'd user name from when i was a kid (went by MaXX, in games i went on crazy killing sprees and the mad got added - I'm from England.
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