When I can, and I will, at the junkyard I'll find a 2019 ranger and pull the tranny engine and axle and fit them into my other ranger what do you guys think?

 

Welcome to the forum

Why not

The 2.3l Ecoboost has been used since 2015, so already out there if you want

It uses the same bolt pattern as 2.3l Duratec engine in 2002 to 2011 Rangers/B2300, 2002/2003 would be best years because of HEC dash added in 2004, but it can be swapped out as well

2019 only shares Ranger name, nothing else will be direct swap

Axles are 6" wider on the 2019 Ranger

 

good luck getting the 10R80 to fit in the old ranger..they are MASSIVE

 

Thank you for the replies, I said I will so even if I have to rebuild the cab and frame

 

Do you think I could make an adapter or swap the fly wheel to fit my standard (4.56 axle)

 

2.3l Ecoboost will bolt to 2.3l Duratec manual trans, they have the same bell housing bolt pattern

Not sure on the flywheel clutch setup that would be the hold up, and the M5OD-R1 wasn't mean for 2.3l ecoboost torque, 310ft/lb, 2.3l Duratec was literally half that, 154ft/lb

M5OD-R2 would handle the extra power but was never made in a model that matches 2.3l bolt patterns

 

Would there be the possibility to put in the speed 3/6 tranny to handle because the turbo 2.3 I'm thinking might handle I'll take a look at the the fly wheels

 

Any automatic is a stronger transmission than its manual counter part, that's why vehicles with automatics have higher tow weight rating than manual of the same engine size and model, no its not because of the driver not being good with a clutch, lol, never was

If you can find a transmission that has capacity for the torque then have at it.

But the more I think about this swap the less I would be for it
You can go out and buy a Ranger with this drive train now, 2019, so not sure it would be a practical swap

You can build a 302/5.0l engine to match HP and Torque, that will fit in Ranger and has a few transmission types that will work for 2WD or 4WD, and no stock version of that out there

 

I agree about the 5.0 but I want the milage too that's just something. I'll miss out on

 

You can't beat a 4cyl turbo for MPG, but then again, "there ain't no replacement for displacement", lol

The 2019 Ranger should tip the scales at 4,200lbs, so about 1,000lbs more than "our" Rangers, so its 23mpg with the 4cyl engine is not that bad, in a 3,200lbs Ranger you could be looking at 27mpg

 

Eco boost in a Ranger
https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...thread-155296/

 

Nice, I missed that build thread

 

My current duratec 2.3 (93 octane, yea i know run 87/89, im running 93 because everything else here is lighter fluid basically,) i avg about 32-34 MPG and i never go over about 3200 RPM when driving but when im idling at 35 i go straight 5th gear and 25 4th gear
assuming i can hook up the m5ODr1 how well do you think mileage will be

 

I think you mean 22-24MPG, if not NEVER sell the Ranger, lol

Laws of physics still apply on earth, 3,000lbs vehicle with last generation engines just can't put up those kinds of number on level ground
Gasoline engines are only about 25% efficient, some of the newer ones are getting close to 30%
Diesel were 30% and are now getting close to 38%, because diesel has more energy per gallon, so better MPG

But in any case a gallon of gasoline has XX amount of energy, and thats it, can't change it, but you can make engines more efficient and vehicles lighter

The new gasoline engines are pushing 40MPG in smaller cars
Hybrids are getting above 55MPG

Manuals get better MPG because they are in Neutral when stopped, automatics are always under load, in gear, unless you shift to Neutral each time you stop
i.e. if you are on level ground and shift auto to drive then let your foot off the brake, see what MPH you get to without touching gas pedal, say its 6MPH, so when stopped you are using 6MPH worth of gasoline but going 0 MPH
Manuals are also direct drive, autos have fluid coupler/torque converter that only becomes direct drive above a certain MPH

M5R1 doesn't have detachable bell housing so may be hard to find for the 2.3l Duratec, but they are out there

 

I stand by my 33-34mpg because I've been pricing out the cost Everytime, 16.5 gallon tank, bed cover (soft cloth) and very light on the throttle

 

Thank you for the m5r1 bell housing info, I know a few people who do fabrication around town, probably be about 600$ but can be done, I'm below sea level and always keep the engine running nice and smooth even at 216k miles (hence 93 octane)

 

Octane only matters if you have higher compression and/or a Knock sensor
Octane is a heat rating for self ignition, 87 octane has fewer "whole" 8(oct) chain fuel(tane) molecules, than 93 octane
The 8 chain molecules are more stable, less likely to self ignite when heated, the 6 and 7 chains are more volatile.

Think of 8 chain as a small diameter stick with flat smooth ends, and the 6 or 7 chain as same size stick but with ends that are splintered, not smooth and flat
Then try to light each end with a match(heat), the splintered ends will light easily, the flat smooth ends will not

87 to 93 octane have the same energy per gallon, assuming no ethanol is added to the 87, which is common because it makes it more stable, it smooths off the splintered ends :).

87 octane can be used with compression ratios under 9.4:1 or so, over that you need a knock sensor to advance spark timing to head off ping/knock, this advance lowers power and MPG, but so does pinging/knocking, lol.

In a 9.0:1 compression ratio engine the MPG would be the same with 87 or 93 octane, if there was a difference then that would mean an engine problem, again assuming no ethanol added
Ethanol has less energy per gallon than gasoline, but not all that much less, so the 10% added to 87 octane is well worth the stabilization it adds vs the slight lower MPG, it also gets rid of the water that is found in all gasoline at gas stations, the water comes from the refineries storage tanks, transport truck tanks and the stations storage tanks.
"Bad gas" is when there is too much water, lol.
Gasoline can't bond with water, and water is heavier than gasoline so will settle to the bottom of storage tanks, and there are sumps that pump out the settled water, but thinks do get stirred up now and then so water in the gasoline
Ethanol can bond with water, which makes it a good fuel line anti-freeze, and when it bonds with water it can still be burned in an engine, little less power but no mis-fires like you would get with straight water

 

My current compression is 9.7:1 Wich is why I goto 93 and second going to the transmission for the new Ecoboost, the m5odr1 is rated at 331 pound feet

Secondly, money is not an issue, I run premium gas because it's both better and I get knock with 89

Gonna turbo after taking the stock head and replace with a 28k miles mzr 2.3T head

 

 

Yes, Mazda did run the higher compression ratio on the L engines to get better power, 9.7:1 so it needed a knock sensor

The 2.3l Ecoboost runs 9.5:1 so also needs knock sensor

The Ranger 2.3l Ecoboost declares 280HP and 310ft/lb torque
Mustang boasts 310HP and 350ft/lb from the 2.3l Ecoboost

Not sure the M5R1 would last too long, in the past, if there was a problem inside the M5R1 it was most likely the input shaft, it either broke or stripped its gear, so that seems to be a weak point, I would inspect that on any M5R1 you end up with

 

Do you think I could find a input shaft that'll fit but support at least 400+ft/lbs, I turbocharged my engine with 4 psi pushing up to 10.2-10.4 ratio, I'm mixing 60% 91 with 40 100

 

No, never ran across that for the M5R1

T5 would be better choice if going above 300HP
Tremec T-56, 6-speed would be even better, there is an adapter for the 2.3l Ecoboost

Problem with these is the shifter location, it way back on the trans

 

I'll have to see if I can mount the motor up further and move the radiators fans to front of the grill

 

I use my middle seat though a lot and things would get difficult if I missed it, and cut out for the shifter but if I have to then I will

 

Not with shifter relocation kits, or the MDL T5Z front shift tail housing that I bought....



GB :)