I have a 2003 2.3L Ranger. Every so often I have a problem where it will start and then sputter and die then wont' start for a while. After a while it often starts and runs fine again for a weeks or months. It stranded me today in a WalMart parking lot and I purchased some carb cleaner and sprayed it in the intake and it would start and run for a few seconds just fine...then sputter and die. So this tells me it isn't a spark issue or anything like the IAC. So I am thinking it is some intermittent issue with the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or the inertia switch. Does anyone know what is the most likely culprit with it being intermittent like this? Thanks!

 

You can hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, it is not quiet
Listen for it
Turn key on and off as much as you need to, to either confirm you hear it or confirm you don't hear it, in a No Start situation.

Fuel pump relay is not expensive, just a standard automotive relay, but it is rarely the problem.

Fuel pump is most likely the problem.


In 2003 there is a warning light on the dash for "Check fuel shut off switch"
The computer activates the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds with Key ON
It also has a Monitor wire on the output of inertia switch(fuel shut off switch)

When computer activates Fuel Pump Relay it expects to see 12volts on the Monitor wire which confirms fuel pump relay is working and inertia switch is closed(working).
If computer doesn't see that 12volts for the 2 seconds then it would turn on the dash Warning Light

So if there is no warning light on then fuel pump is most likely the problem

 

Thanks for the info! I new that typically you can hear fuel pumps, but I had never paid attention to it before to realize how loud it was. If it happens again I will definitely know to listen for it because now that it is working I made a point to listen for it today. Also, I had no idea there was a light. I don't remember seeing the light so it is sound like it is indeed the fuel pump.

The manual says to replace the pump I need to drop the tank which seems easy enough (4 bolts for the straps and remove the filler hose). But it seems everyone thinks it is easier to take off the tailgate and the remove the bolts in the bed and slide the bed back. Is there something about dropping the tank that is more difficult than it seems it would be? I am wondering if maybe it is difficult to lower the tank much before the fuel lines have to be removed and there might be limited space to reach up in there and remove them.

 

With Key ON there is a Bulb test for the warning lights, you should check if that bulb is working.
Owners manuals are here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
It should tell you where that warning light is located on the dash


Dropping the tank is what shops do because they have a lift to put vehicle up in the air and they have transmission jacks(tall jacks with wide supports) to lower the tank a bit to release hoses and wiring at the top of the tank before dropping it all the way.
And then the hard part, getting tank back in and lined up to get straps back on, this is very very hard to do laying on your back, even with two people, lol.
So dropping the tank is easy, getting it back in is the frustrating part


Removing or lifting the bed is more DIY driveway or garage friendly
In either method you have to remove the 3 screws holding filler neck
Difference is then 6 bolts holding bed on, and tail light wiring connector.

You really need two people, one on each side, to lift the bed and walk it back a few feet to expose the top of the gas tank, it is not that heavy just awkward

Or you can leave in the two rear bed bolts, loosened about 3/4 of the way, then depending on rear bumper setup, you can lift up on the front of the bed and use 2x4's or ?? to hold front of bed up while you replace fuel pump, the rear bolts keep it from sliding backwards.

There are a few videos on removing or lifting front of bed on Rangers