I have a 1993 ford ranger 2.3 5 speed 2wd I recently changed the alternator because the voltage on the dash was jumping I changed it thinking it would fix it it didn’t so I drive it down the road not having any problems a few hours before changing the alternator and on my way back home it started miss firing bad and spark knocking in the rpm’s so i changed the plugs didn’t help it then I when on to changing the fuel pump / fuel filter and regular and injectors didn’t help change the icm and crank shaft position sensor no charge i checked all my grounds didn’t help it please help

 

Welcome to the forum

I think you covered too much ground on your post
So you had a voltage issue and its fixed now?????

Vehicle voltage first, as that effects spark and fuel systems
You need a Volt Meter
Key off
Test battery voltage, 12.3v to 12.8v is acceptable, under 12.3v is a drained battery or failing battery if over 5 years old
Start engine
13.5v to 14.8v is acceptable, and stable no jumping around

If under 13.5v or not stable, then alternator is not working, shut off engine
Use volt meter to test voltage on B+ terminal, its the bigger wire on the back of alternator, leave it connected, should have "battery voltage", exactly what you see when testing battery, if no voltage then fusible link is blown

Unplug the 2 or 3 wire connector on alternator
Test the Yellow wire, should see battery voltage, if low/no volts the fuse is bad
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts

Turn on key/engine off
Re-test green wire, should see battery volts, 0.2 less is OK

If all 3 wires test as OK. the the vehicle "charging system" is OK
Plug connector back in

Start engine
Test battery voltage again, if still under 13.5v or "jumpy" then alternator is bad, even new alternator can be bad right out of the box

If you have stable voltage now, then confirm that and post what current issue is?
You changed fuel pump
You change spark plugs
You changed Crank sensor
You changed injectors

So problem now is too many NEW parts
New means NEVER EVER TESTED, new no longer means "it works", that was 30+ years ago when there was Quality Control
Each new part installed was never touched until you opened the box, you are the quality control department for who ever made the new part, thats what the warranty is for

So you have got yourself into a bit of a pickle with all these new parts, new parts are NOT a good idea unless you known specifically that a part has failed

You said "it started miss firing bad and spark knocking"
Is that the current state of engine operation
Does it matter if engine is cold or warmed up?

 

Thank you for the reply


It miss fires at idle and in the rpm’s but only spark knocks in the rpm’s the voltage don’t jump no more and the only codes it’s throwing is a 334 code a 327 code and a 224 code it will idle with a miss then dies I probably shouldn’t have threw parts at it like that but it’s my daily driver and I need it but I may have made the problem worse

 

Just so we are on the same page, these are the Ford OBD1 codes
224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems

327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low
334 (O,R,M) EVP sensor is/was high

327 and 334 would account for the pinging/knocking(spark knock)
EGR system cools the cylinders helping to prevent pinging on Regular gas(87 octane), just put in 89 octane until you fix it and pinging should go away, might need to go to 91 octane
You will most likely have to clean the EGR valve and its metal tube to exhaust manifold, EGR system can be a real pain to work on
I doubt its stuck open and causing a misfire because if it was you probably wouldn't have the pinging, but not off the table

224 is the misfire
I would first check the spark plug wires on each coil pack
There is one coil pack for exhaust side and one for intake side
And the spark plug wires are arranged in PAIRS, 1/4 and 2/3, because there are only 2 Coils in this coil pack

Picture here of 2.3l coil pack: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/im.../CoilPack2.jpg
3 wire connector position tells you what side of the coil pack should have 1 and 4 spark plug wires and what side is 2 and 3
If 3 wire connector is facing you, 1/4 is always to the left, 2/3 to the right
Doesn't matter if its 1/4 or 4/1 they BOTH spark at the same time, so doesn't matter at all

Unplug intake side(passenger side) coil pack's 3 wire connector, so its off line
Follow each of the exhaust sides spark plug wires to its cylinder, 1 thru 4, to make sure wires are correct, in PAIRS, 1/4, 2/3
Start the engine
2.3l engine ran on just 4 spark plugs from 1974 thru 1988, so it runs just fine on 4 spark plugs
See if it has the misfire
If so then that coil pack may be bad
Swap coil packs, makes sure spark plug wires still in correct order
Start engine
If you still have the misfire, and you think spark plugs are OK, then the new ICM is not working
If there is no misfire now then the other coil pack is bad, but...............this is a long shot because as said this engine runs just fine on 4 spark plugs, so to have a Spark Related misfire BOTH spark plugs in one cylinder must be bad

There is no alternating spark, the point of dual spark plugs is more power, so BOTH spark plugs fire or there would be no point in having 2 spark plugs in one cylinder
So it would be very unusual to have TWO Coil packs fail in the same way, disabling 1 cylinder

 

I checked all my voltage it is fine I checked my coils they seem to be fine and wires are fine it’s all reading in spec it acts like it’s on of time but it’s not I’ve checked the timing 3 times all marks like up perfectly

 

You can't test a coil, or an ICM for that matter
There is no such thing as a "good coil test", the ohms are too low on the primary and too high on the secondary to be tested in any meaningful way
You can visually inspect a coil pack for cracks, but thats about it

Just do the tests I described

 

It don’t have no compression in 3-4 but 1-2 have 150

 

Then you found your problem
Pull the head and find out why

 

Found the problem

 

I would go out on a limb and AGREE, you found the problem