2001 ranger 2wd 4.0 intermittently wont move. Occasionally cold start I put the truck in drive and it won’t move. Sometimes I’m driving and I stop at a light or stop sign and when I hit the gas truck wont move. I can put it in reverse 1 or 2 or even park and then back in drive and everything is fine again. This can happen one time per day or 2-3 times per day and even be fine for a couple days then act up again. This was initial problem. I had tranny rebuilt and 3 days later same problem all over again. Took it back to tranny shop. They said nothing is wrong with it. Week later took it back they looked at it again by that point I was on the internet and came to conclusion it was solenoid. Bought the solenoids and new valve body and they put it in. Week later same problem all over again. Took it back again and they kept it for about 2 weeks. Shop swore it’s not a tranny issue. Guy goes out of his way and installs another tranny. 2 days later same issue. Says it’s not the tranny. Took it to another shop since the od light comes and flashes after hitting higher speeds (50-60+) for them to run diagnostics. Guy says he can only scan have the truck. That part of the ecm is bad. Truck doesn’t slip gears and there’s no loud noise and everything function like it’s supposed to. Could the ecm cause this transmission problem. If not what could possibly be the problem for this intermittent issue. Called several places and they said electrical issue and several places said tranny problem and one place specifically said sprag is bad. Im confused and need help.

 

I have similar, 2010 2.3l rwd. I have been working on bringing the truck back, long story it was empty or extremely low on all fluids when I had it towed to my drive. I now have it running and have fixed a very bad trans leak. I have a similar issue, intermittently it just won't go. Usually when it is hot and when I slow down, stop. Give it gas it will not go, take it out of gear to reverse or park, put it back in gear it runs fine. Transmission shop said nothing wrong, with transmission. Taking it to a shop next week to have a scan with a better scanner than I have. I will be following closely on this.

 

Let me know what they say. Just dropped mine off today. I was told the ecm and Tcm are all in one. Waiting to see the results of what they say the problem is!!

 

So had it checked at a transmission place and a general machinic garage. Nothing wrong with my electronics, and the transmission place said nothing obviously wrong with my transmission. After talking to the transmission place, my solenoids or valve body might be contaminated or have varnish. so the next step is a complete flush of the transmission to try to eliminate possible contamination. I have the thought that when the previous owner had the transmission replaced it was a junk yard transmission that was not properly flushed. will find out once I have enough cash to get it done.

 

Ahh yes...the word "flush" comes 'round again.
Is one or multiple transmission fluid Drain & Fills a flush?
Is a fluid pump-out via a disconnected colling line a flush?
Is hooking your poor transmission up to a dreaded, high -powered "flushing machine" a flush?

The answer is: All of the above!
Do you do any wrenching yourself? If so, then I respectfully request you drop the pan and change the filter while you're there.
You can inspect all you can (color of fluid, goop in the pan and magnet and condition of filter) so you can more accurately determine your next step.
I had a replacement transmission pan with a drain plug ready ($11 then- -probably more today) when I dropped my original pan. This makes subsequent Drain & Fills super easy.
If your fluid is hideously filthy you can do a pump-out to get your fluid close to clear red.
This would be your best shot at an easy cleaning.

Some will try a cleaner product being that you're draining fluid anyway. In my experience, a Mopar dealership used a solvent cleaner in a relative's Jeep.
I've never needed to use a cleaner, but I know such cleaners are out there. I'm under the impression they work sometimes.

I type all this because these are affordable steps you might be able to do yourself.

 

I do a ton of wrenching, mostly on everything BUT automobiles. I have already dropped and serviced the filter, also double checked the torques on the valve body, and checked the seating of the solenoids. In this case the flush is hooking up to the dreaded machine that is designed to get all the old fluid out, getting all ten quarts out is the goal. The first fluid I dropped out was very bad, it also had contaminates that suggested that I drive it for 1k an do it all again. The second time I did the service the fluid was better but still had a lot of contaminates.
I know the transmission was replaced, but I also suspect it was a junk yard find that when installed should have been hooked to a machine and fully flushed and adjusted, which I doubt happened. I am really trying to avoid dropping the valve body, and solenoids because correct reinstallation required three special guides which the price is more than i really want to spend on a one time use tool. So a detergent and a real flush came to mind. I also suspect that the transmission was over heated at some point in the pasts which would cause varnish, another reason I am considering the detergent.
The new pan with drain plug, will be here in the next few days, it was $59 the prices have went up. I also have a actual ford gasket which is a big improvement over the ones you can get aftermarket.

I am open to any suggestions, I do not have the required tools to do a full rebuild or that is what I would be considering, the tools would cost me more than paying the local custom transmission shop.

 

Sounds like you got it covered.
Having a junkyard 5R44E/5R55E rebuilt is risky enough. Installing one untested is more so.
Best of luck

 

2nd transmission place said nothing wrong with electronics. They are going to drop the pan and take a look. Seems like no one is gonna find the issue on the 2nd transmission in 3 months still having the original issue.

 

that really sucks. I am still waiting to do the other crap on mine, the main vehicles and motorcycles took a lot of cash recently. I did a PCM memory clear. you can look it up on you tube, it did not fix my transmission problem but it did help with some issues I was having with the engine. What it did do to the transmission is made it more predictable. I am 75% sure mine has to do with contaminates, and/or a loose solenoid. Checking my solenoids this weekend when I replace the transmission pan.

 

if anyone is interested I am still tinkering when I have time with mine. the issue, besides the fluid I think still needs flushed is that the pressure solenoid was not fully installed it did not have the bracket on it. It would not come out when the pan was installed but it was not fully seated, popped right out when I pulled the pan. Now fully seated and will see if that makes a difference.