this may sound like a dumb question,is it possible to use the 4x2 conversion
kit on a 2008 ranger 4x4 with automatic locking hubs.if this is possible then
you how much gas savings is there.in your opinon which type of hubs are
more reliable locking hubs or automatic hubs.sorry for all the questions ,but i
am new to the 4x4 scene and this is a very interesting subject.

 

i dont understand what you want to do do you want to convert to manual hubs or what

 

Your 2008 does not have automatic locking hubs. It has a live axle and to convert it to manual hubs will require you to use the CV shafts and wheel bearing assemblies from a 98-00 model ranger, then you will still need the hubs themselves. You looking at a cost of between $500-$1000 and then you'd be using inferior parts. You might save a couple MPGs.


BTW considering your 2008 has a live axle, you don't have to worry about how reliable the hubs are. If the time comes that they won't engage, then your truck probably won't have the front wheels on it anymore.

 

Also you have to factor in the fact that you have just paid more for a 4x4, and now you want to pay even more to put inferior parts into it. You would be at a loss regardless. If you want a 4x2, then Id suggest selling your truck, and buying a cheaper 4x2

 

i dont understand people that buy a 4wd and try and take the front end apart on them i dont get it you bought a 4wd for a reason

 

I don't get how you consider the parts to be inferior. It's pretty much the same parts that the live axles have. I'm planning to do this conversion myself.

 

A full manual hub conversion would save you in the long run, at the expense of the inconvenience of not being able to casually shift in to 4WD. You'd have to get out and lock your hubs.

It'll save some wear on your front driveshaft and CV's also if you could get manual hubs on it.

 

I figure if I'm out on a trail I will lock the hubs at the beginning and unlock them at the end. No biggy.

 

Honestly the only reason I consider the parts to be inferior is because the CVs use a snap ring to hold it to the hub rather than an axle nut like the new CVs . Not really a big deal to most, but to me it is because the design overextends the CVs when used in conjunction with the RCD.


The only real advantage that I see is the fact that if you break a CV you'll be able to unlock the hubs and still drive it home. Whereas with the live axle you're pretty much boned.

 

I didn't know that they used a plastic snap ring.

I doubt I will be putting any lift on my truck.

 

Me neither. My D44 has manual hubs and I'd have it no other way.

Other than the extra weight, my truck is a 4x2 when it's on the street still. I get about 15 mpg average with all the extra weight my truck is carrying, 35" tires, and all. Not bad really.

 

What is up with that overextension when you use the RCD kit? Is there a remedy?