ok today i started removing everything on the passenger side beam, nuts, keys, springs the works why? cuz i want to replace the ujoint while im doing the manual hub conversion. so i got the spindle off and managed to get the loner part of the axle shaft off and removed the u-joint, now how do i get the rest of the shaft out???? heres a pic to show.




can anyone tell me on how to get the shafts out? and yes i will be doing the u-joint mod as shown on TRS, for those who dont know
.....http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...t_snapring.htm

 

are ttb front diffs c-clip? if so, you have to pull the cover, and clips out of the case.

 

but doesnt the front diff bolt to the driver side beam?

 

that's what i was thinking! i know on newer rangers there are no c-clips, so a little bit of pressure from a pry bar slides them right out...

on the older ones i would just drop the front diff and do the work on a bench..

 

wait i think i got it, so as in my case the diff bolts up to the beam and the driverside shaft runs through the beam, now if i unbolt the spindle and loosley unbolt the diff after the spindle is off and everything from the driver side that shoud allow the diff to slide out to the RIGHT (passenger side) right?

 

according to the diagram i found on TRS, the passenger side has a c-clip

 

try this tutorial. its got a couple links to exploded diagrams, but some say its got c clips, and some dont.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...28Rebuild.html

 

when it says right side does that mean drivers side?


Note: i checked the xploded view and on the drievrs side there is no clip, so im assuming you pull the driverside shaft out first and then bolt the diff and should just drop out. then remove the c-clip from in the diff and out comes the passenger side shaft. (i hope)

 

when talking about sides, the easiest way to remember is think about what side it is when you're sitting in the drivers seat looking forward

 

this is from the TRS link.





1) Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.

2) Raise the front of the vehicle. Securely support the front with jack stands and remove the wheels.

3) Remove the front brake calipers by removing the caliper retaining pin and slide off the caliper. You will probably have to remove the pin by squeezing it with pliers to fit in the groove, and then driving it out with a punch and a hammer. Hang the caliper out of the way with wire to avoid any strain on the brake line.

4) Remove the locking hubs, wheel bearings and locknuts.
a) Remove the retaining washers from the wheel stubs and remove the locking hub.
b) Remove the snap ring, axle shaft spacer, and bearing spacer.
c) Remove the lock nut with a 4 prong hub tool.
d) Remove the inner wheel bearing lock nut and wheel bearing.

5) Remove the nuts securing the spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the spindle with a small hammer to jar it free. Remove the spindle.

6) Remove the splash shield.

7) On the right side of the vehicle, pull the shaft and joint assembly out of the carrier.

8) Working on the right side, remove the metal clamps from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft. Slide the rubber boot onto the stub shaft and pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.

9) Repeat these steps on to remove the axle on the opposite side.




its hard to see but i fyou save it you can expand it and see what i mean, there is no clip on the drivers side and it says to remove the right side first so thats why my guess was the drivers side being the right side, it could also be the ride side when looking straight at the truck. this stuff can be soo confusing.

 

yes no maybe so??

 

to actually get the shaft out of the passengerside you have to pull the driverside shaft out and unbolt the diff pumpkin from the beam and then pull the clip off the inner passengerside axle then the axle can come out. a lot of people tend to get good at changing that u-joint with it still in the vehicle, but if you go through the hasstle of taking the entire pumpkin out and are planning on using the spring on teh outside of the slip joint on the passengerside shaft then you do not need to reinstall the clip inside the diff when you put it all back together for the passengerside because the spring will hold the passengerside shaft into the diff. this was originally thought up because the lock-right for the D35 does not have access to use a c-clip with it so someone figured out a way to eliminate the need for the clip by using the spring on the slip shaft to keep the inner shaft engaged with the diff.

 

So where is the spring supposed to go if you were going to eliminate the c clip? can you do this even if you dont have a lock right in the front?

 

wow back from the dead... yes you can do this even without a locker in the front if you dont want the inner clip thats in the diff anymore. On the passengerside shaft there is a slip joint, the spring would go inside the boot but on the outside of the slip joint. This spring will keep pressure on the 2 seperate shafts keeping them pushed apart but being a spring it will still let them compress when needed. This keeps the inner shaft section pushed into the diff.

 

what sized spring will this need to be? i snapped my passenger axle so i will be replacing the whole assembly from the differential out. is this a reliable way to reinstall it or would it be better just to reuse the c clip?