Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #26  
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WAIT WAIT WAIT WHAT?????????

you tighten the nut and then back it off? and then what do you do with it after you back it off? your truck is not 2wd with serviceable bearings...serviceable bearings you torque to 10 lb/ft and then back off and torque to 10 lb/in.

your truck, having a SEALED UNIT BEARING, the center nut gets torqued to 184 FT/LB. that is one hundred and eighty four foot pounds of torque...

wonder why you are eating wheel bearings? take a guess...well, ill just tell you...the center nut sets the preload on the bearing...without the right amount of pre-load, in combination with whatever other screwed up stuff you have, will cause them to fail...

Buy a set of Timken bearings, and drop your truck off somewhere to have them installed...you wont ever have to replace them again.

By having the cv axle nuts loose...you are not only a danger to everyone on the road (they will separate without that nut tight, i have seen it happen) you are also a danger to the RF community for advertising it...someone with zero knowledge, like Downey could come on here and read that, and think you are correct and do it to his own truck
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #27  
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Spec is 162 ft/lb, and the nut is not reusable.

Posting at the same time Toreador4x4, not stepping on toes. My 02 ford manual has the 162 spec.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #28  
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04 manual states 184...odd...i looked it up in the workshop manual...either way, he is BACKING THE NUT OFF AFTER HE TIGHTENS IT (im not yelling at you, im raising my voice because of how retarded this is)
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #29  
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No no no. Not backing off like that. They are backed off then torqued to the appropate spec. The impact is set on low. Don't bash. I don't have them set at 10
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4
By having the cv axle nuts loose...you are not only a danger to everyone on the road (they will separate without that nut tight, i have seen it happen) you are also a danger to the RF community for advertising it...someone with zero knowledge, like Downey could come on here and read that, and think you are correct and do it to his own truck
ROFL
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #31  
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If they arent at the right spec, they will fail prematurely...There is no other reason for them to fail beside

1) improper installation
2) burying them in mud all the time
3) running in 4x4 on the pavement, or in 4x4 at all with mismatched gears
4) having super offset mexican rims or steamroller tires
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #32  
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I wouldn't have thought about that. Good call Justin.
I've never seen an Impact with adjustable torque settings. I was always taught to do them by HAND. so whoever said, "do it with an impact" was in the wrong also.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4


If they arent at the right spec, they will fail prematurely...There is no other reason for them to fail beside

1) improper installation
2) burying them in mud all the time
3) running in 4x4 on the pavement, or in 4x4 at all with mismatched gears
4) having super offset mexican rims or steamroller tires
2 and 3 seem to fit well in his case lol
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #34  
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger
I wouldn't have thought about that. Good call Justin.
I've never seen an Impact with adjustable torque settings. I was always taught to do them by HAND. so whoever said, "do it with an impact" was in the wrong also.
on the 2001+ ranger wheel bearings, pre-load is critical...98-00 have a pre-load nut on the back since the CV axle is held in with a snap ring, and TTB rangers are set like normal serviceable bearings.

When i do them, i turn the impact all the way down and put the nut on until it is just seated and then torque them. I have this thing called finesse that 99% of technicians do not...i talk to un-certified retards that call themselves technicians on a daily basis...its frightening to think they work on other cars besides the ones permanently parked on the side of their trailer
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #35  
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Jeebus Christ.

If I saw anyone using an impact wrench to install hub bearings I'd go Vin Diesel on them with a torque wrench.

TORQUE YOUR BEARINGS TO SPECS!!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4
on the 2001+ ranger wheel bearings, pre-load is critical...98-00 have a pre-load nut on the back since the CV axle is held in with a snap ring, and TTB rangers are set like normal serviceable bearings.

When i do them, i turn the impact all the way down and put the nut on until it is just seated and then torque them. I have this thing called finesse that 99% of technicians do not...i talk to un-certified retards that call themselves technicians on a daily basis...its frightening to think they work on other cars besides the ones permanently parked on the side of their trailer
I've seen some scary stuff come into the shop before also.
I knew the Pre-load was pretty important on the 98-00s. I've only ever done like 3. I can do TTB in a heartbeat i've done mine soo many times. I usually just screw the nut on by hand, get out a ratchet and do it all by hand. I'll admit that i don't always torque the bearing nut down on my own truck. I usually just spin the wheel until it feels right (I know, i know. But you just have to trust me) haven't ever had a problem.
Yea, Finesse is something you can't just "pick-up" I learned a bunch of it when i started doing Body work for my old man. recreating body lines and what not with filler is pretty time consuming without it.
 
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