Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Big brakes??? I cant stop on 36's!!!

  #1  
Old 07-25-2006
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Big brakes??? I cant stop on 36's!!!

Does anyone know any company that makes bigger front brakes for 01-06 rangers? I already know about the rear brake upgrades, but the front is just not slowing these big *** tires now!!!
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Suprise suprise?

I dunno, if there's a way to increase pressure in the front brakes lol.


You might be a lil shocked but ranger brakes aren't meant to handle 36s!
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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I replaced my rotors with oem replacements and got carbonmetallic pads instead of semi-metallic oem style. They work alot better but still gotta take it easy. I've only got 32's...and they're a son of a gun to stop.
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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nope you currently have the biggest. slow down your driving and brake sooner, plus your running 15" rims you cant go any bigger with out going larger rim
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Originally Posted by l2en
I replaced my rotors with oem replacements and got carbonmetallic pads instead of semi-metallic oem style. They work alot better but still gotta take it easy. I've only got 32's...and they're a son of a gun to stop.
you on crack or your truck must really suck mine can stop my 32's in no time at all....and remeber you drive a truck not a sports car it handles like a oh what you call it oh ya TRUCK
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Duh! I know that. My grrl hardly ever sees 3k rpm's, much less high speeds. It's just that it's getting heavier, the more sh*t I pile on this thing. I might as well armor plate it and become a mercenary.

Anyone got a flareside bed mounted .50 cal they wanna get rid of?

Back on topic....what gears are you running??
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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WEll, you could go with some Hawk pads and PowerStop Cryo rotors and some stainless steel braided lines. That will improve the stopping power during long trips ( short for me, I drive 45min to get to work/home) and city driving (stop and go).
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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how about rear disk brakes...

i know you said you know, but it WILL help. or better yet, just swap out to a sploder 8.8 right off the bat...

other than that, crossdrilled and slotted, rotors maybe? new pads?
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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I have friction master pads up front and explorer rear disc in the back. Let me tell ya, I can stop pretty quick with no fade on 35s.
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Discs on the back would help greatly if....you started driving backwards?

Also rolling downhill backwards rear disc brakes would be sweet.
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
Discs on the back would help greatly if....you started driving backwards?

Also rolling downhill backwards rear disc brakes would be sweet.
Yes braking in reverse is also greatly improved. But most noticeably the difference is with bigger tires, I would say it stops better now than it did when stock.
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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rear disc brakes will help you going forward or reverse. Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are, I believe, more helpful for extended use of braking (i.e. autocross, racing, etc. when you use your brakes hard and often.) The added surface area of the slots and holes allows air to pass over the brakes and cool them better, reducing brake fade. I've also heard they provide a better way to vent some sort of gas that is emitted by the friction of pads on rotors. Either way, it's not my understanding that they improve your normal braking performance, but are aimed more at increasing brake performance over long periods of heavy use. Kind of see what I'm saying?
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Originally Posted by Gearhead61
rear disc brakes will help you going forward or reverse. Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are, I believe, more helpful for extended use of braking (i.e. autocross, racing, etc. when you use your brakes hard and often.) The added surface area of the slots and holes allows air to pass over the brakes and cool them better, reducing brake fade. I've also heard they provide a better way to vent some sort of gas that is emitted by the friction of pads on rotors. Either way, it's not my understanding that they improve your normal braking performance, but are aimed more at increasing brake performance over long periods of heavy use. Kind of see what I'm saying?

well when brakes are starined they heat up and the cooling helps with brake fade. allegedly.

I would think that slipping brakes would cause a lot of heat...
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
well when brakes are starined they heat up and the cooling helps with brake fade. allegedly.

I would think that slipping brakes would cause a lot of heat...
What do u mean by slipping? Cause the idea of brakes is friction. So that's a given.

Aaron
 
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Old 07-25-2006
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I have no problem stopping I have Wagner rotors and pads up front!
 
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Old 07-26-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
What do u mean by slipping? Cause the idea of brakes is friction. So that's a given.

Aaron
he means when brakes heat up from excessive use (IE: trying to stop 36's in city driving) causes them to "slip" being that the Friction piont on the pads to rubber isnt as good and they arnt "grabbing" as the get hot.
 
  #17  
Old 07-26-2006
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Slotted rotors or slotted & drilled. A good set of high performance pads that have a high coeffiecient of friction that work from "cold" and won't eat up the rotors - not race pads in other words.
 
  #18  
Old 08-10-2006
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What is the Ranger proportioning valve set to? 70/30 or 60/40?
 
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Old 08-10-2006
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im gunna guess 70/30 because when i was finishing off my tires, i could brake stand until i ran out of gas or rubber...
 
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