Can someone help me find rear axle bearing and seals for my 7.5 rear end 01' XLT - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 05-03-2016
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Icon2 Can someone help me find rear axle bearing and seals for my 7.5 rear end 01' XLT

My passenger side axle seal is leaking fluid into the drum brakes, so I want to replace both the bearings since I already removed the axles and remove the seals.

Problem is I can't figure out what I need. I am on rockauto web's site and see that there are rear axle bearings

TIMKEN 5707 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} 1.4016 in. Bore; 0.698 in. Width Info
Rear; 7.5" Ring Gear

TIMKEN 8660S {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Rear; 7.5" Ring Gear


For some reason ring gear doesn't sound right to me or is that correct? If I go under drivetrain, they have rear axle bearing.

Just want to make sure I order the correct thing.

Thanks much,
-Nigel
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Old 05-03-2016
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8660S is the axel seal.

5707 is the axle bearing.
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Old 05-03-2016
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Awesome!

thank you for the clarity! Ordered and should have it by the weekend.

Surprisingly I thought it would be much harder to remove the rear axles. The seals look original because they were heavily rusted and not coming out.. took me a while to get them out. Pulling the old bearing out with a slide hammer took about 5 minutes and they didn't appear damaged at all. Will be replacing though since I have everything apart.


-Nigel
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Old 05-04-2016
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Did you inspect your axles ? the old seals and bearings can cause damage to the axle where the seal rides the axle and where the bearing rides the axle.

If both spots are not damaged you should be fine, yet at Rock Auto the sell repair bearings which have a built in seal if the axle has damage to the area the bearing rides.

I am sure you know this but it may help others that did not know.
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Old 05-04-2016
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I don't see any damage at all on the axles. I ran my fingers where it sits in the bearings and did not feel any indentations or scratches.

The old seals and bearings have to be at least from 2001...lol The bearings looks perfectly fine, no scoring, no nicks..etc. I would have kept them in but honestly since I am replacing the seals I figure why not and just replace them with timken. It took me a while to get the seals out actually. They were rusted and pretty much seized in there from rust.

Hoping to get my stuff here in the next couple days so I can get it all installed.

-Nigel
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Old 05-04-2016
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Was the any pitting on the axle?
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Old 05-04-2016
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Icon2

Nope no pitting at all.

I do actually have a question on the bearing. I wasn't paying super close attention when removing them however when looking at this stock bearing it appears that one side is slightly more round than the other... Does it matter which way the new bearing will go in once I get it?

I've taken a couple crappy pictures, hopefully one can tell... but just wondering now as I would hate to put the new ones in if the slightly more curve should be on the inside..etc.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 05-04-2016
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First I might add if you had a leaking seal without a worn bearing, make sure to check the vent on the casing to make sure it is not plugged up.

If the rear end cannot breath the lube will push past a new seal also.

Normally when I install rear end bearings I try and install them with the bearing number facing out.

If the number is on both sides and one side is obviously rounder on one side, I would put that side in toward the gears.

I think they do that to make it easier to start the bearing into the housing.

Make sure to coat the roller bearings and seal face with fresh lube before installing, I also coat the axle where the seal and bearing will ride with fresh lube.
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Old 05-04-2016
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Awesome! Thank you.

I don't believe the vent tube is clogged but that is definitely a thing to check. Honestly I believe it started to leak because of the brittle rubber... these seals have to be from the factory and also the bearings from 01', which I really believe just time/weather has taken it's tool on the rubber. The rubber was very hard and not pliable at all when removing these. The outer parts were so rusted to the shaft it took a lot of kroil and finesse to get them out with out scratching the inside of the shaft.

I believe you are right now looking at the bearings that the more rounded side should go in, makes sense that it would be easier to drive it in, so that is what I'll be doing. Excellent point about using lube on the rollers before installing. This can be new diff fluid right? I saw a video on YouTube and the person looked to have used actual grease, on the rollers and I thought that might not have been a good thing mixing in with diff fluid? I had planned on coating everything in new Amsoil synthetic diff fluid before filling it with the same fluid.

Appreciate the info! I can only imagine what the inspection place would have quoted me to do this...lol He asked if I wanted a quote and I told him nope. He quoted some poor dude 90 bucks to change a serpentine belt PLUS the cost of the belt which they were charging another 90 for...eeek!


EDIT: While checking the vent tube it wasn't clogged but there was definitely some **** in there on the metal nipple. I took it off and shot some air through it to clean it out. It had what appeared to be a small plug in it, though I could blow air and it would slowly come out, now it's much better.

-Nigel

Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 05-07-2016 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 05-05-2016
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I just double checked with Alldata they claim you should use lube ( diff fluid ) on the bearings and grease on the seal.
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