Clutch
Honestly any reputable brand clutch you buy will be fine.
"Self adjusting" clutches are clutches with a pressure plate that "self adjusts" during use. The idea is that the adjustment it does on its own keeps the engagement point and "feel" of the clutch the same throughout the life of the unit. There are a number of benefits of them, but for a stock replacement I didn't see any real benefit.
The stock clutch system is a self adjusting component, and should be organic. A clutch made of kevlar is meant to increase friction disc grip. The tradeoff is kevlar has a more aggressive engagement feel, and can be harsh at times from a stop. It is also almost impossible to deglaze once they have been glazed over, and lose almost all of their "grip" once you reach that point.
I would replace the slave cylinder while you are in there, or at least the throw out bearing. Swap the pilot bearing as well.
Other notable repairs to do at this time are to replace the EGR and water neck gaskets, largely inaccessible unless the transmission is out of the truck. The heater core bypass coolant tube is another component to inspect and consider replacing, the plastic 3 way tee that sits above the starter is known to burst, and the hose assembly is all one piece.
"Self adjusting" clutches are clutches with a pressure plate that "self adjusts" during use. The idea is that the adjustment it does on its own keeps the engagement point and "feel" of the clutch the same throughout the life of the unit. There are a number of benefits of them, but for a stock replacement I didn't see any real benefit.
The stock clutch system is a self adjusting component, and should be organic. A clutch made of kevlar is meant to increase friction disc grip. The tradeoff is kevlar has a more aggressive engagement feel, and can be harsh at times from a stop. It is also almost impossible to deglaze once they have been glazed over, and lose almost all of their "grip" once you reach that point.
I would replace the slave cylinder while you are in there, or at least the throw out bearing. Swap the pilot bearing as well.
Other notable repairs to do at this time are to replace the EGR and water neck gaskets, largely inaccessible unless the transmission is out of the truck. The heater core bypass coolant tube is another component to inspect and consider replacing, the plastic 3 way tee that sits above the starter is known to burst, and the hose assembly is all one piece.
Clutch Throw Out Bearing (the OEM is plastic. It's generally more cost effective to replace both the slave and the TOB as they are generally sold as one. The TOB is serviceable on its own, but it's usually the same cost as an entire slave)
Rear Main Seal
EGR gasket
Water Neck Gasket
Items that I would inspect first, and then determine if they are uesable or suspect as follows. If there is ANY doubt in your mind that the parts could be wearing out, I would just bite the bullet and get new
Clutch (pressure plate/friction disc)
Concentric Slave Cyl
Heater bypass hose system (large hose system that crosses over the transmission from the passenger side coolant recovery tank, under the manifold, to the driver side thermostat housing and EGR via 3-way T)
Resurface or replace flywheel
I recommend replacing the coolant crossover tube as a rule if the OEM one is still installed. Like mentioned above, the OEM component has a 3 way plastic T junction that is non serviceable, and is known to split over time. Dorman Part number626528, or CLICK HERE to view the part on RockAuto. For anyone else looking, this component should fit all 2.3NS rangers from 2001.5 to 2010. It is a better part than OEM. Its kind of a royal PITA to replace when the transmission is in, so if you're going to do it, now is the time.
I can't think of any other things I would swap out. But keep in mind the age of the truck, and the age of the hoses. If you think its been long enough, it's probably time.
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