Clutch hydraulic problem
Clutch hydraulic problem
Hello all.
2011 Ranger 2.3l 2wd 5 speed.
My slave cylinder failed on me. I pulled out the transmission and replaced the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. I replaced the slave cylinder and put it all back together. Well the new slave cylinder had a bad spring clip in the hydraulic line fitting.
I pulled out the transmission and put in a new slave cylinder. Again. Second time in a day.
The master cylinder failed about 10k miles ago and that was replaced. I used the Luk prebled master.
After putting it all together and gravity bleeding there was not much feel in the pedal. Still wouldn’t go in gear when running and couldn’t get first with the engine off.
I pulled the master cylinder and reservoir up in a vertical position to get any air out of that just like in the YouTube video of bench bleeding the master.
I put that back where it belongs and gravity bleed it some more. Nothing. I then tried the having a helper push the pedal after I loosened the bleeder and then release after I tightened it.
After a few reservoirs of fluid it will go into first with key off but still nothing with the engine running.
Is there a possibility that the pushrod is not allowing enough travel to disengage the clutch?
Everything I replaced had 150k miles on it. The new master has about 10k in it.
I’m about to just buy another prebled master cylinder. But how can I know if the slave isn’t holding air?
Im sure that with enough blood sweat and f-bombs I could use an open wrench on the bleeder screw with a clear hose… but I’ve just been using a socket and no hose.
Thanks all.
2011 Ranger 2.3l 2wd 5 speed.
My slave cylinder failed on me. I pulled out the transmission and replaced the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. I replaced the slave cylinder and put it all back together. Well the new slave cylinder had a bad spring clip in the hydraulic line fitting.
I pulled out the transmission and put in a new slave cylinder. Again. Second time in a day.
The master cylinder failed about 10k miles ago and that was replaced. I used the Luk prebled master.
After putting it all together and gravity bleeding there was not much feel in the pedal. Still wouldn’t go in gear when running and couldn’t get first with the engine off.
I pulled the master cylinder and reservoir up in a vertical position to get any air out of that just like in the YouTube video of bench bleeding the master.
I put that back where it belongs and gravity bleed it some more. Nothing. I then tried the having a helper push the pedal after I loosened the bleeder and then release after I tightened it.
After a few reservoirs of fluid it will go into first with key off but still nothing with the engine running.
Is there a possibility that the pushrod is not allowing enough travel to disengage the clutch?
Everything I replaced had 150k miles on it. The new master has about 10k in it.
I’m about to just buy another prebled master cylinder. But how can I know if the slave isn’t holding air?
Im sure that with enough blood sweat and f-bombs I could use an open wrench on the bleeder screw with a clear hose… but I’ve just been using a socket and no hose.
Thanks all.
The aftermarket hydraulic parts for these trucks (Luk included) are pure garbage and it's literally a game of a chance as to whether you get a good part or not. If the new master doesn't solve it, it's the slave. That's the only good thing about this system, there isn't much that can go wrong.
Keep in mind that Rangers are prone to wearing out the pivot bracket for the clutch and brake pedals, which can cause decreased pedal travel. Grab the clutch pedal and try and move it left to right and up and down. If you have alot of movement, the pivot bracket assembly is worn out and needs to be replaced (they're available aftermarket now).
Keep in mind that Rangers are prone to wearing out the pivot bracket for the clutch and brake pedals, which can cause decreased pedal travel. Grab the clutch pedal and try and move it left to right and up and down. If you have alot of movement, the pivot bracket assembly is worn out and needs to be replaced (they're available aftermarket now).
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