Clutch issue
Clutch issue
Here awhile back with my 03 I noticed my clutch was funky. I checked the fluid and it was empty. Put new fluid in and it was fine. Fast forward to about 2 months later when it started getting cold I was losing pressure on my clutch pedal. It got to be to where I could barely get it into gear. Started up today and had to pump the clutch a bit and was hard shifting then I pulled up to my house and it has no resistance what so ever. Tried to bleed it still had no change in pressure and when I loosened the bleeder valve nothing came out just dripped. I did how ever notice and with the screw loose and I pressed the clutch the fluid was black but when it would just drip out it was normal color. And still no pressure cause I'll push the clutch in and can't go into any gear. There is no visible leaks anywhere
Welcome to the forum
The Master is the most likely issue, not hard to change, it should come with hose to slave and hose with new reservoir attached
Also new pushrod will be attached
My reason for thinking Master is because the Slave inside the bellhousing doesn't really have much that can break, there are no valves or anything, its just a cylinder that expands when you pump fluid into it, and no fluid is coming out of its bleeder, or dripping out of the bellhousing
Master has a valve and 2 seals
The valve allows flow from reservoir into the master, but when you press down the pedal it BLOCKS the flow into reservoir so all the pressure goes to the slave, and thats not happening
There are also 2 O-ring seals on the piston inside the master, they prevent fluid pressure from pushing fluid past the piston and to the top of master.
Here is a drawing of the whole system: https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...1600x1200.jpeg
There is a switch on the pushrod under the dash that must be removed
Diagram here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/autom...2217_CPP_1.jpg
It has a sliding tab that you release and it comes off
Remove the push rod to pedal bolt/pin
In the engine bay
Unbolt the reservoir and drain it
On the Master there are 2 bolts, remove them
The Master has a "twist lock" into the firewall, so twist it counter clockwise a 1/4 turn or so and it will pull out........IF you have unbolted the pushrod, lol
On the bellhousing is a Quick Connect fitting, these can be a pain in the A**
You need a tool like this: http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net...nnect_tool.jpg
Auto parts store have them or make one
The Master is the most likely issue, not hard to change, it should come with hose to slave and hose with new reservoir attached
Also new pushrod will be attached
My reason for thinking Master is because the Slave inside the bellhousing doesn't really have much that can break, there are no valves or anything, its just a cylinder that expands when you pump fluid into it, and no fluid is coming out of its bleeder, or dripping out of the bellhousing
Master has a valve and 2 seals
The valve allows flow from reservoir into the master, but when you press down the pedal it BLOCKS the flow into reservoir so all the pressure goes to the slave, and thats not happening
There are also 2 O-ring seals on the piston inside the master, they prevent fluid pressure from pushing fluid past the piston and to the top of master.
Here is a drawing of the whole system: https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...1600x1200.jpeg
There is a switch on the pushrod under the dash that must be removed
Diagram here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/autom...2217_CPP_1.jpg
It has a sliding tab that you release and it comes off
Remove the push rod to pedal bolt/pin
In the engine bay
Unbolt the reservoir and drain it
On the Master there are 2 bolts, remove them
The Master has a "twist lock" into the firewall, so twist it counter clockwise a 1/4 turn or so and it will pull out........IF you have unbolted the pushrod, lol
On the bellhousing is a Quick Connect fitting, these can be a pain in the A**
You need a tool like this: http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net...nnect_tool.jpg
Auto parts store have them or make one
No.
There is nothing in the slave, its just an expandable tube, so can't force pedal up or down
Springs on the pressure plate will push slave's piston(cylinder) back into closed position, which should push pedal back up, but there is a spring inside the Master that does that as well
There is nothing in the slave, its just an expandable tube, so can't force pedal up or down
Springs on the pressure plate will push slave's piston(cylinder) back into closed position, which should push pedal back up, but there is a spring inside the Master that does that as well
Try Googling : ford ranger clutch prefilled master cylinder
Example here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRE-FILLED-...-/162211902176
These are already bled so only air left will be in the slave which will gravity bleed easily
Always open the slave bleeder when installing the master's hose on it
Example here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRE-FILLED-...-/162211902176
These are already bled so only air left will be in the slave which will gravity bleed easily
Always open the slave bleeder when installing the master's hose on it
On the 2003 it probably has a plastic clip, there should be a ring that slides toward the push rod and then you pry plastic piece out of the metal pedal arm
Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/5wx7...-firewall.html
Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/5wx7...-firewall.html
I have a question pertaining to this subject. Please excuse me if I’m not using proper forum etiquette. I didn’t know if I should create a new thread or use one that already existed. I have a 1996 Ranger xlt 4.0 V6 4X4. I have already determined that my clutch master was bad so I replaced it. I bench bled it before putting it on the truck and also while on the truck I pulled the push rod and piston out and let the fluid over flow before putting the piston back in. I also gravity bled the slave cylinder. I have pressure in my pedal and the clutch engages and disengages just fine, but the height of the pedal when the clutch “catches” has changed. It use to be somewhere around the middle and now it is at the top. It doesn’t slip or anything I’m just not use to it catching at the top. I was wondering what changes the “height” and where should it catch. I can’t really find a straight answer anywhere. Is it catching at the top now because of air? Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Ron you have helped me tremendously in the past and I really appreciate it.
It should be in the middle area if the Pressure Plate is self adjusting
If you just changed the master and not clutch/pressure plate then it is odd pedal is now at the top.
Is pushrod firmly seated on the piston, nothing slipped in between.
Open bleeder on slave, without pressure on the pedal, to make sure there is no pressure in the system with pedal up all the way.
There shouldn't be any pressure, if fluid squirts out then there was and now its gone so pedal should be OK again
If you just changed the master and not clutch/pressure plate then it is odd pedal is now at the top.
Is pushrod firmly seated on the piston, nothing slipped in between.
Open bleeder on slave, without pressure on the pedal, to make sure there is no pressure in the system with pedal up all the way.
There shouldn't be any pressure, if fluid squirts out then there was and now its gone so pedal should be OK again
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