TL;DR: Two- part question. Shifting is difficult, need to identify most likely culprit & Can repairing the master and/or slave cylinder compromise an unchecked transmission?

Hello everyone, I am not the most technically savy with my 96 Ford Ranger (XLT 2.3L RW drive). I need all the info I can get so I included as much info as I could give. I thank all that read this in advance, I'll answer your questions to the best of my abilities!
In warm Midwest weather (August) my clutch shifts hard, I must pump the brake a few times to shift into 1st gear with slight difficulty as I shift upward. The clutch pedal always returns to its neutral position, but the clutch "catches" very low. Now that the weather is colder I have a slightly easier time shifting but I have decided to repair the clutch anyway. Based on the info, is it the Slave and/or Master cylinder or something else? A few threads have blamed the Master cylinder and their logic is that the Slave cannot be problematic because it is not as mechanically intensive. Perhaps I will repair both one day but I need to chose one to be repaired first and soon. My bonus question is if repairing the clutch could affect an unchecked transmission? I hear a rumor where it is advised to leave a transmission unopened if you do not know it's service history. I am at 142xxx miles now and I wonder if I can still do service to it or if it is best to leave the transmission (Pandora's Box) unopened? Would getting the clutch repaired require opening up my transmission or no?

 

Welcome to the forum

You have an M5OD-R1 transmission often called an M5R1
These were used in Rangers from 1988 to 2012, last Ranger, a good transmission

It uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission, Mercon V
There is a Drain hole and a Fill hole both on drivers side of trans, it holds 2.8quarts bone dry so drain and fill will use slightly less

Its a hydraulic clutch so can get air inside causing less travel for the slave
The slave expands to release the pressure on the clutch disc, this allows you to shift gears
If slave doesn't expand all the way then clutch disc rubs on the flywheel and that makes it hard to get into gear when stopped, less noticeable when moving but still an issue

Hydraulic fluid is used because it doesn't compress under pressure, so when you push down on the pedal/Master cylinder then that exact same pressure/volume is transferred to Slave and it expands to it's maximum travel
If there is any air in the system then the air compresses and you don't get maximum travel at the slave, so hard to shift

Read up on Bleeding Ranger clutch
Check the clutch reservoir in the engine bay, if its dry, or ever ran dry, then you have air in the system

Because of the angle of the Master cylinder air can get trapped at the top, you need to pull out the master to get that air out

 

Thank you, glad to be amongst my Ranger brethren!

I understand, I will try the bleed before proceeding with a part replacement. As for the transmission, I am operating on the assumption that it has not been serviced the entire 143xxx miles of its life. In your opinion would you recommend I do the maintenance no matter what or shy away from messing with the transmission?

 

I would check the fluid level and color by opening the Fill Plug, I think its a 24mm head size(15/16)
If ATF looks OK then I would leave it as is
If its a darker color or smells burnt then change it

Fill and drain shown here, its an R2 but R1 is similar: http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/2...lsize/m5od.jpg