Hard to get in gear & shift
#1
Hard to get in gear & shift
Hey guys, so I have a 2001 4.0 with a manual transmission that's hard to get into first gear from a stop, and can be hard to get into the other gears too. 2nd especially is hard and 4th is worse than 3rd, but if it's warm outside it's a lot better. It's been around 55 in the morning and that's not warm enough to make shifting decent. I read some forums and found out I can hold the clutch pedal down for 4 or 5 seconds and it'll go into first easily from a stop, but if I try to shift straight to first without holding in the clutch for a few seconds, sometimes it just plain won't go in. Even when I can get it in first, I have to jam it into 2nd if it's cold. Can't really help it with traffic what it is. Anyway, what do you guys think I'm dealing with? Are my synchros bad? My slave cylinder? My clutch was replaced 8k ago but nothing changed in regards to this problem.
Last edited by rangerguy24; 09-19-2019 at 10:00 AM.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You have air in the hydraulic clutch system, common issue on hydraulic systems, like brakes
Could be Master has air at the top or there is a small leak in the slave or Quick Connect fitting at the slave and reservoir was run dry
So check reservoir first
Then get a friend to help you Bleed the system
It is not a transmission issue
Did they replace the Master when they put in the new clutch and slave?
If not then master may be the issue, not hard to change these, or expensive
Also check the pivot point for the clutch pedal, there is a bushing that can wear out and you don't get full travel in the pedal so clutch can't disengage fully
The way a clutch works
The Transmission is directly connected to rear wheels, no disconnect for that
So when rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, stopped, then transmission is at 0 RPMs, simple as that
At idle the engine is at, lets say, 750 RPMs
So when stopped when you push in the clutch pedal and try to shift into 1st(or any gear) then transmission input shaft and clutch disc must be slowed down from 750rpm to 0rpm to MATCH the RPMs in the transmission
Same when shifting gears, Clutch disc must be free to MATCH transmission RPMs(rear wheel RPMs)
If the slave is not opening fully then the clutch disc will rub on the flywheel or pressure plate, so you have a 10" clutch disc that you are trying to slow down using a 4" synchro, very hard to do if there is ANY rubbing
If there is ANY air in the system then clutch disc will rub, or if master doesn't have full travel then slave doesn't open fully, so disc rubs
Could be Master has air at the top or there is a small leak in the slave or Quick Connect fitting at the slave and reservoir was run dry
So check reservoir first
Then get a friend to help you Bleed the system
It is not a transmission issue
Did they replace the Master when they put in the new clutch and slave?
If not then master may be the issue, not hard to change these, or expensive
Also check the pivot point for the clutch pedal, there is a bushing that can wear out and you don't get full travel in the pedal so clutch can't disengage fully
The way a clutch works
The Transmission is directly connected to rear wheels, no disconnect for that
So when rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, stopped, then transmission is at 0 RPMs, simple as that
At idle the engine is at, lets say, 750 RPMs
So when stopped when you push in the clutch pedal and try to shift into 1st(or any gear) then transmission input shaft and clutch disc must be slowed down from 750rpm to 0rpm to MATCH the RPMs in the transmission
Same when shifting gears, Clutch disc must be free to MATCH transmission RPMs(rear wheel RPMs)
If the slave is not opening fully then the clutch disc will rub on the flywheel or pressure plate, so you have a 10" clutch disc that you are trying to slow down using a 4" synchro, very hard to do if there is ANY rubbing
If there is ANY air in the system then clutch disc will rub, or if master doesn't have full travel then slave doesn't open fully, so disc rubs
#3
You have air in the hydraulic clutch system, common issue on hydraulic systems, like brakes
Could be Master has air at the top or there is a small leak in the slave or Quick Connect fitting at the slave and reservoir was run dry
So check reservoir first
Then get a friend to help you Bleed the system
It is not a transmission issue
Did they replace the Master when they put in the new clutch and slave?
If not then master may be the issue, not hard to change these, or expensive
Also check the pivot point for the clutch pedal, there is a bushing that can wear out and you don't get full travel in the pedal so clutch can't disengage fully
The way a clutch works
The Transmission is directly connected to rear wheels, no disconnect for that
So when rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, stopped, then transmission is at 0 RPMs, simple as that
At idle the engine is at, lets say, 750 RPMs
So when stopped when you push in the clutch pedal and try to shift into 1st(or any gear) then transmission input shaft and clutch disc must be slowed down from 750rpm to 0rpm to MATCH the RPMs in the transmission
Same when shifting gears, Clutch disc must be free to MATCH transmission RPMs(rear wheel RPMs)
If the slave is not opening fully then the clutch disc will rub on the flywheel or pressure plate, so you have a 10" clutch disc that you are trying to slow down using a 4" synchro, very hard to do if there is ANY rubbing
If there is ANY air in the system then clutch disc will rub, or if master doesn't have full travel then slave doesn't open fully, so disc rubs
Could be Master has air at the top or there is a small leak in the slave or Quick Connect fitting at the slave and reservoir was run dry
So check reservoir first
Then get a friend to help you Bleed the system
It is not a transmission issue
Did they replace the Master when they put in the new clutch and slave?
If not then master may be the issue, not hard to change these, or expensive
Also check the pivot point for the clutch pedal, there is a bushing that can wear out and you don't get full travel in the pedal so clutch can't disengage fully
The way a clutch works
The Transmission is directly connected to rear wheels, no disconnect for that
So when rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, stopped, then transmission is at 0 RPMs, simple as that
At idle the engine is at, lets say, 750 RPMs
So when stopped when you push in the clutch pedal and try to shift into 1st(or any gear) then transmission input shaft and clutch disc must be slowed down from 750rpm to 0rpm to MATCH the RPMs in the transmission
Same when shifting gears, Clutch disc must be free to MATCH transmission RPMs(rear wheel RPMs)
If the slave is not opening fully then the clutch disc will rub on the flywheel or pressure plate, so you have a 10" clutch disc that you are trying to slow down using a 4" synchro, very hard to do if there is ANY rubbing
If there is ANY air in the system then clutch disc will rub, or if master doesn't have full travel then slave doesn't open fully, so disc rubs
One more thing. If the master is the problem or if theres air in the system, is there any reason it would shift better when its warmed up? Or that the problem would come and go to a degree?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Most manual Transmissions get easier to shift when they warm up, however you have an M5OD-R1 transmission which used ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission.
So its not all that thick when cold, you may notice a difference, but wouldn't be much
I would check trans fluid, there is a fill plug about 1/2 way up on drivers side, take out the plug and see if a little fluid leaks out if not put in a finger to feel its level and see its color.
Should be RED like any ATF
If its a different color or looks odd drain it and refill, only uses 2.8quarts bone dry so maybe just over 2 quarts to refill, uses Ford Mercon V or equivalent
More than a few oil change places will "top up" these transmissions with 80w gear oil, used in most manuals, and this can cause harder shifting because its thicker oil
You can get a pump like this to add fluid to transmissions and differentials:
Never used that pump, just using it as an example, I have a 12volt electric oil pump from my boating days to suck the oil out of inboard motors, lol
So its not all that thick when cold, you may notice a difference, but wouldn't be much
I would check trans fluid, there is a fill plug about 1/2 way up on drivers side, take out the plug and see if a little fluid leaks out if not put in a finger to feel its level and see its color.
Should be RED like any ATF
If its a different color or looks odd drain it and refill, only uses 2.8quarts bone dry so maybe just over 2 quarts to refill, uses Ford Mercon V or equivalent
More than a few oil change places will "top up" these transmissions with 80w gear oil, used in most manuals, and this can cause harder shifting because its thicker oil
You can get a pump like this to add fluid to transmissions and differentials:
Never used that pump, just using it as an example, I have a 12volt electric oil pump from my boating days to suck the oil out of inboard motors, lol
Last edited by RonD; 09-19-2019 at 11:37 AM.
#5
I actually did change the transmission fluid about a week ago. I didn't drain the transfer case though. I used Mercon V to fill it but it hasn't made any difference. I did the same thing about 15k ago, which helped at the time, so I'll try again. The previous owner probably never did it. Maybe it just needs the fluid changed a few times? Thanks for the pump tip, I actually have one 👍
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Good deal
If transmission shifts OK engine off then its pretty much down to clutch issue, or lack of full travel in the slave, so start with new master and if possible get it pre-bled, so already full of fluid
Should come with resrvoir attached and line that goes down to slave with Quick connect
Can't do much more than that without pulling back the transmission
If transmission shifts OK engine off then its pretty much down to clutch issue, or lack of full travel in the slave, so start with new master and if possible get it pre-bled, so already full of fluid
Should come with resrvoir attached and line that goes down to slave with Quick connect
Can't do much more than that without pulling back the transmission
Last edited by RonD; 09-19-2019 at 01:44 PM.
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Also check clutch pedal to make sure its not loose at the top, the bushing that can wear out
This video shows how air can end up at the top of master and then can't get out by bleeding at the slave.
Not that you want to do this, but you can, lol, the pushrod is not meant to come off once its inserted so hard to do this
You can pull out the master and flip it upside down, so any air goes to the bottom which is now the top, then have someone open the bleeder on the slave so you can push in the pushrod forcing that air into the hose to slave, then keep bleeding to get it out, keep reservoir topped up
This video shows how air can end up at the top of master and then can't get out by bleeding at the slave.
Not that you want to do this, but you can, lol, the pushrod is not meant to come off once its inserted so hard to do this
You can pull out the master and flip it upside down, so any air goes to the bottom which is now the top, then have someone open the bleeder on the slave so you can push in the pushrod forcing that air into the hose to slave, then keep bleeding to get it out, keep reservoir topped up
Last edited by RonD; 09-19-2019 at 01:51 PM.
#10
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#11
Just thought I'd post an update for anyone who may be curious about what happened. I noticed the transmission vibrating a lot and making noise while the truck was in neutral. I could only tell from the outside, so I'm assuming it's been happening and I just didn't know. I took the truck to my mechanic, who's a friend from high school, and he said the input bearing could be going out. They pulled the transmission and long story short, I'm having it rebuilt. I should have it back in a few days, so I'll post what happens when I get it back.
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