Clutch line disconnect collar stuck and breaking
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Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 236
Likes: 42
From: East Greenville, PA
Clutch line disconnect collar stuck and breaking
I have done some searching and it seems that the common thread is that, "I've never seen these fail". Well, chalk one up. I have the proper disconnect tool but that collar is so buggered up and brittle that it collapsed the moment I applied any pressure. It won't slide around like I've seen in the videos and certainly won't press in to release the fitting. I don't have a "known good" here to compare, but it looks to me like it may be swollen. I'd say it's got some rust jacking, but the fitting is brass, is it not?
I have hit the fitting with some PB Blaster to see if I could free it. It's been a couple of days so I'll try again later, but I'm concerned that there is simply not enough of the collar left to disengage it.
What are my options here? I'm trying to disengage it because the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I'm hoping it is a bad master but I won't know until I can get it out. I could cut the line but that pretty much guarantees that I'm putting in a clutch unless there is some other way to release it once I get the line away from it. Would old school feeler gauges slide in to disengage the teeth? Grasping here, of course.
Tips, tricks or suggestions? I'm no stranger to auto repair and such, but this is my first Ford. My 79 Toyota had a hydraulic clutch but the fittings were like standard brake lines and the slave was external. I considered putting some wheels in a circle around the truck bed and chanting, but only as a last resort.
I have hit the fitting with some PB Blaster to see if I could free it. It's been a couple of days so I'll try again later, but I'm concerned that there is simply not enough of the collar left to disengage it.
What are my options here? I'm trying to disengage it because the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I'm hoping it is a bad master but I won't know until I can get it out. I could cut the line but that pretty much guarantees that I'm putting in a clutch unless there is some other way to release it once I get the line away from it. Would old school feeler gauges slide in to disengage the teeth? Grasping here, of course.
Tips, tricks or suggestions? I'm no stranger to auto repair and such, but this is my first Ford. My 79 Toyota had a hydraulic clutch but the fittings were like standard brake lines and the slave was external. I considered putting some wheels in a circle around the truck bed and chanting, but only as a last resort.
Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 393
From: Everett, WA
From a few of the threads I have read here,
Getting it apart is the easy part
Getting the new and old connectors to connect and seal is the hard part, seems like it's usually best to replace both master and slave.
Getting it apart is the easy part
Getting the new and old connectors to connect and seal is the hard part, seems like it's usually best to replace both master and slave.
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
They can be a real bear to get off if the release collar is chewed up from someone else buggering around with it.
You may be able to find just the collar an auto wrecker, my collar was removable, so if you could find a good one if yours is too chewed up...
Here's a video on how it's supposed to work, go to around 2:24
You may be able to find just the collar an auto wrecker, my collar was removable, so if you could find a good one if yours is too chewed up...
Here's a video on how it's supposed to work, go to around 2:24
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