Hi again,
We have a 1996 Ranger 2wd. Manual trans, with rear drum brakes. Recently the driver side rear was loosing breaks and we noticed fluid gushing out upon pedal depression. Pulled drum and found the adjuster laying in the drum and seal popped out on the cylinder. Brakes were well past needing changed as they had little pad left.
The drum has the fins on it so believe this is the 9inch brake setup. We purchased all 100% new hardware, cylinders, brake pads and drums.
Installed all components and brake pads. However, the drums will with some finagling go on, but are to tight to turn.

We have shifted the setup front and back on the pivot to gain alignment for the drum to go on which helped on the passenger side some.
Adjustment wheels are all the way in
All parts were purchased at O'Reilly's.
Have double and triple checked that components are the same as oe.
Break lines are removed to ensure no pressure is building
Have followed a number of how to videos on the rebuild and everything seems to be in order.

Please help on how to get the drum to slide on and allow us to set brakes.

Thanks

 

"Tight to turn" is typically not a problem with new shoes and drums. As lok as you can turn them by hand. The shoes will quickly seat themselves with a few miles of driving.

 

Thank you. However, the passenger side turns but with considerable resistance. The driver side will not turn even with some assistance. Just seems off in some way.

 

Cut a 4" x 9" strip out of a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper and fold it into thirds. Sand the inside of the drum by hand to remove any coating left by the manufacturer. Remove the sanding dust with brake cleaner.

 

This will then allow the drum to turn over the pads? Ok we'll try it and report back.

 

Drums have shoes. Disc brakes have pads.

You should also lightly sand, then clean the shoes.

 

+1 On sanding the shoe lining
Shops have a machine that does that, it "grinds" off a bit of the lining and also matches its curve to brake drum
Brake shoes are mass produced so thickness and curvature will not be the same on all, close but not exactly the same

Just for re-cap
Shoe with smaller lining goes to the front
Star wheel has a left and right side, needs to be on correct side of vehicle
Star wheel needs to be all the way in

New shoes should be tight, very tight on the drum, the fact you can even get the drum on means its OK, lol
Driving it after getting the drum on will do what the shop machine does, it trues the lining to make curve correct for the drum and thickness even over the entire surface of lining

 

Ok great. We will do some sanding and then go with. On your recap we have verified those elements.

Thanks all

 

Rear brakes self adjust when you back up and stop, using brake pedal
Or each time you set the Parking brake
That's what the star wheel is for, there is a lever that tries to move it each time you backup and stop or set parking brake, if it doesn't move then shoes are touching the drum so expanded enough, no adjustment needed

You have a manual trans so probably set/use the parking brake
People with automatics often don't use parking brake as much and often don't brake when backing up they just shift from R to D, lol
You can adjust rear brake shoes by holding out the park brake release handle and then pumping the parking brake pedal, you will feel it get tighter and tighter as the star wheel adjusts to the proper level, shoes touching drum

 

But my issue is the shoes are touching already with adjuster all the way in. Tonight will sand shoes and drum and give it a go. The parking brake trick won't loosen brakes will it?

 

No, it won't