I've actually had this thing since like last summer. Never took it in from the shed to see how it matched up with the axle or the t-case.

I haven't checked the axle end, length or whatever, but the double-cardan joint bolts up to the t-case like it was made for it. It has about a 3" slip joint in the driveshaft which will probably be fine.

The guy that gave it to me at work pulled it out of a scrap pile that was going to be melted into new steel. He said he thought it was off a Dodge or something. I have not idea.

If you recognize this shaft let me know. It's probably the basis for my front shaft now.

 

haha nice i love finding stuff like that.

 

sweet. 3" was enough for mine but my arms line up perfect to the driveshaft angle. not sure that would work for you.

 

That is sweet one time when I was offroading broke a driveshaft and I found another driveshaft in the tool box I forgot about (This was in my old zuki)

 

That's one of the main questions. Until I get the t-case mounted and so forth it's hard to tell. Well, having SOMETHING that bolts up is a start. Modifying a shaft is cheaper than building one from scratch. I think probably it's long enough -- but it's a total guess and wishful thinking, lol.

 

That shaft looks to me from a mid to late '70's chevy half ton. The squareish flange bolts to the transfer case.

 

do you know what Ujoint is on each end? isnt the tcase end a 1310? I have not found what a Stock Ford yoke is yet.

 

I literally have no idea, lol. It fits. I'll figure out the rest later I suppose.

Well, I need to take that flange off and see how the u-joint fits up to the yoke on the D44. There are several yoke ends available for the 44 so it might just be I have to change yokes. I know they make those adapter u-joints with different sizes on the two cross axis.

Somebody school me here: is is best practice to put the double cardan up at the t-case? I'm surprised that on the Chevy axle it would be down at the diff. I can't remember which is supposed to be best.

 

i would think it would be better up high and out of the dirt.

plus with the ranger setup that double cardon adds some length right where you need it so that the driveshaft does not rub the tranny cross member.

 

nice find John...

 

My OEM double cardain in the front is up top, and the Tom Woods in the rear is also at the tcase (Jeep). I noticed that about the flange and cardain end also....weird.

 

Thanks. It's a blessing for sure.

Don't know if that's what it is or not, but that square flange doesn't match the holes on the rear driveshaft flange. I'm not sure if the front and rear flanges were different or not.

Okay, well it's going to mount with the double-cardan up top then for sure. I'll figure out the rest later. Still have to drop the tranny and change the tailshaft.

I ordered the rest of the stuff to make my 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM tie rod and track bar since the drag link came out so nice. I'll be doing the "tie rod flip" when I do it and mounting it on top, and dumping the drop pitman arm I just put on (mo' money, mo' money [wasted])...well, not wasted. The truck is such a pleasure to drive until I get the rest done it's worth the $65 or whatevr I spent on it.

 

i retract that statement above....not that i remember correctly, the front shaft on the '97 and older have the u-joint cups, not a flange.......

geeze, haven't had my truck for a weekend and I am already forgetting thigns

 

Ha ha! Well, I've taken apart an A4LD for practice, and I have the ATSG manual on it, so we'll see...I also have the "shift improver" kit (which in the case of the 5Exxx is really more of a "remedial" kit) going in as well when I do it.

I'm nothing if not foolish...I mean BOLD -- I'm nothing if not bold, yeah, that's what I meant...

 

I like that exhaust riser from the drivers side -- mine does not arch like that and will be in the way of the driveshaft at full stuff -- yet one more thing to change, lol.

Thanks for the pics! I'm pumped!

 

To minimize vibration, a driveshaft with a conventional u-joint on one end and a constant velocity on the other should be installed like this, with a zero angle at the end with the conventional joint:



Obviously, depending on the geometry of the suspension, this may not be possible throughout the entire wheel travel. So, I would say that the angle should be optimized for the most common loaded static ride height.

 

I had a problem on my zuki if it was flexed out and I just gunned the hell out of it the driveshaft would come flying out! Sucks looking for half of it in the mud!! lol

Now you just need to find that 302 somewhere in your garage.

 

Good stuff, Bob -- thanks.

 

This is a good resource for driveshaft geometry. Click "Tech info".
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

 

I just went out and measured the front yoke on the D44 and it uses a 1330 u-joint. 1310's are about 3.25" long, and 1330's are about 3.625" (3-5/8") long. I didn't measure the ones on the other end of that shaft last night. I will when I get home today.

 

So you have not had a front shaft in at all?

 

Pointless since I don't have the t-case in yet, lol. I have to drop the tranny and replace the tailshaft with one I "rescued" from an A4LD from an Exploder.

But as soon as I get a break in the weather I'm taking some days off and dropping that puppy, rebuilding it, modifying the exhaust, and putting it back in there. I already have a good rear 4x4 driveshaft. I'll probably sell the 4x2 rear driveshaft for whatever I can get for it. Anyone need an aluminum driveshaft for an extended cab 4x2?