Expo Axle Swap Question
Expo Axle Swap Question
I am about to do an sas to my ranger and im gonna be getting one from a junk yard so what I would like to know is, how long of a life span does the track-lok have roughly if taken care of? Should i look into buying a new posi unit if buying an older axle since i do not wish to deal with a beat posi unit later on? or just wait until it goes out?
I honestly wouldnt even go that route. Just get the 31 spline expo rear end and put a true trac or some time of gear drivin limited slip.
but to answer your question if properly taken care of they will easily go 150,000 miles but id say by 100,000 the clutches are probably starting to go.
but to answer your question if properly taken care of they will easily go 150,000 miles but id say by 100,000 the clutches are probably starting to go.
if your getting it from the junkyard how are you gonna know how it was taken care of?
either way i'm guessing you have to change the gears out on the axle, so you can take a look at it, but more than likely you would be better off putting something else in there, maybe its still good and only have 100k on it, but it could wear out in the next 5k so if you have it apart for gears already...
either way i'm guessing you have to change the gears out on the axle, so you can take a look at it, but more than likely you would be better off putting something else in there, maybe its still good and only have 100k on it, but it could wear out in the next 5k so if you have it apart for gears already...
if this truck isnt going to be a offroad only vehicle I would not lock the rear. The truck is going to suck on the road if you drive it alot. Just get a 31 spline expo axle, and but a gear driven limited slip like a true trac. If its strickly going to be offroad then id prolly lock it but it just depends on how much money you wanna throw at it.
Well if he's SAS swapping I would guess its getting into some off road situations more often than not. I would find an open Explorer axle and put a Powerttrax No Slip or Lock Right in. I drive 90% of my miles on road and love my No Slip. Plus half the price of a True Trac and easy to install.
Yeah a Lock Right is your cheapest route for the rear.
As far as the front, if you lock it you will need manual hubs so you can, you know, turn and stuff.
I would suggest open or LS for the front personally.
As far as the front, if you lock it you will need manual hubs so you can, you know, turn and stuff.
I would suggest open or LS for the front personally.
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