finally......getting the solid piece driveshaft
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
they should.....like i said before, i can't believe that your driveshaft didn't just bolt up.....whenever i put my 1 piece in, it bolted up with no problem.....
Originally Posted by fletch12518
i think thats because your steel shaft was the same size as your old 2 piece shaft correct? The "OD" diameter. beings the aluminum shaft is like 2-3 times bigger, thus needs the bigger flange, u-joints etc......
there isn't a different part #'s for ujoints between the steel and aluminium shafts.......a manufacture makes installs as easy as possible....that way they dont have to have 5 or 6 different transfercase output flanges for a certain year Ranger.....they can have 1 transfer case with different driveshafts though......
even the manual shift t-cases have the same output shaft...
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
flanges & u joints are the exact same.....the diameter of the shaft is just for strength on the aluminium shafts.......
there isn't a different part #'s for ujoints between the steel and aluminium shafts.......a manufacture makes installs as easy as possible....that way they dont have to have 5 or 6 different transfercase output flanges for a certain year Ranger.....they can have 1 transfer case with different driveshafts though......
even the manual shift t-cases have the same output shaft...
there isn't a different part #'s for ujoints between the steel and aluminium shafts.......a manufacture makes installs as easy as possible....that way they dont have to have 5 or 6 different transfercase output flanges for a certain year Ranger.....they can have 1 transfer case with different driveshafts though......
even the manual shift t-cases have the same output shaft...
Originally Posted by n3elz
There are two different size flanges in use, from what I have heard, though I've only encountered the larger ones. This is especially true on the axles.
the larger flanges are on the rear ends.....there are 2 different ones....the older 7.5 axles had a smaller flange that the 8.8.........the newer 7.5 axles have the same flange that is on the 8.8's........my steel 1 piece driveshaft came off a '00 truck with a 7.5 axle.......
are you sure you had the driveshaft in there the truck the corret way Shane? i know it is a dumb question, but it is possible.......the slip yoke goes up by the tranny no the rear end....
are you sure you had the driveshaft in there the truck the corret way Shane? i know it is a dumb question, but it is possible.......the slip yoke goes up by the tranny no the rear end....
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
the larger flanges are on the rear ends.....there are 2 different ones....the older 7.5 axles had a smaller flange that the 8.8.........the newer 7.5 axles have the same flange that is on the 8.8's........my steel 1 piece driveshaft came off a '00 truck with a 7.5 axle.......
are you sure you had the driveshaft in there the truck the corret way Shane? i know it is a dumb question, but it is possible.......the slip yoke goes up by the tranny no the rear end....
are you sure you had the driveshaft in there the truck the corret way Shane? i know it is a dumb question, but it is possible.......the slip yoke goes up by the tranny no the rear end....
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you will have to trim about 1/4" off the gas tank skid plate......because whenever you flex it will rum the plate and make a horrible screaching noise........when you are sitting on level ground, it is fine but not when flexed...
crawled under and saw a nice etch all the way around the drive shaft.. then couldnt figure out how, and my friend poined out the gas tank skid.... prob is it rubs where one of the supports is, how do u shave that??
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
yea i had that noise once.. couldnt figure it out
crawled under and saw a nice etch all the way around the drive shaft.. then couldnt figure out how, and my friend poined out the gas tank skid.... prob is it rubs where one of the supports is, how do u shave that??
crawled under and saw a nice etch all the way around the drive shaft.. then couldnt figure out how, and my friend poined out the gas tank skid.... prob is it rubs where one of the supports is, how do u shave that??
theres about alil more than a 1/4" lip before you get to the arm holding the skid plate up. but thats mine. dont know bout 99's
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
yea i had that noise once.. couldnt figure it out
crawled under and saw a nice etch all the way around the drive shaft.. then couldnt figure out how, and my friend poined out the gas tank skid.... prob is it rubs where one of the supports is, how do u shave that??
crawled under and saw a nice etch all the way around the drive shaft.. then couldnt figure out how, and my friend poined out the gas tank skid.... prob is it rubs where one of the supports is, how do u shave that??
1. take the skit plate off and do it with a torch....
2. leave it on and use a cut off wheel in a air tool.....mark a line and follow it....
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
there are 2 ways......
1. take the skit plate off and do it with a torch....
2. leave it on and use a cut off wheel in a air tool.....mark a line and follow it....
1. take the skit plate off and do it with a torch....
2. leave it on and use a cut off wheel in a air tool.....mark a line and follow it....
ur using a torch.. while the skid is ON THE TRUCK??
dude take the bolts out and do it safely haha, that and u dont have to worry about molten metal falling on you..
if it wasnt frozen over here, i would go out and look lol
dude take the bolts out and do it safely haha, that and u dont have to worry about molten metal falling on you..
if it wasnt frozen over here, i would go out and look lol
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
ur using a torch.. while the skid is ON THE TRUCK??
dude take the bolts out and do it safely haha, that and u dont have to worry about molten metal falling on you..
if it wasnt frozen over here, i would go out and look lol
dude take the bolts out and do it safely haha, that and u dont have to worry about molten metal falling on you..
if it wasnt frozen over here, i would go out and look lol
That or a grinding wheel (throwing sparks in the right direction) more than likely. If you take the bolts out. they have nuts on the back side of em an will be a huge PITA when you go to put them back on. I looked at that 2 weeks ago. I was like wtf
it would be a heck of a lot safer to through the sparks.......heck i used a grinder to grind off my rivits on the spring hangers a couple weeks ago......had the bed off so the filler neck hung down almost in the way.........
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
that sucks.....mine have the clip nuts that clip around the frame........
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you better punk......if you dont do this on friday and post pictures, i am going to drive up there bonk you on the head and take your aluminum driveshaft...
lol Thats why I'll start it friday. That way I have allllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll weekend. The biggest thing now is hoping the splines match up.........




