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Horrible grinding noise coming from flywheel starter area. I replaced the starter and it's still doing it so from what I've seen on here it's probably the flywheel needs replaced and I'm wondering how to go about that and or what tools I'll need. I'm no mechanic by any means but if anythings doable. 1990 2.9 v6 automatic
Basically need a tranny jack or a friend to help you belly it out. Only way i know of to replace the flexplate/flywheel is to remove the trans. Pretty easy access at that point. May consider a new rear main seal too while you're in there. Basic hand tools and a torque wrench should suffice to get the job done.
I would first pull out starter again and look at the Ring Gear on flywheel to see if its damaged, or remove inspection plate to see Ring gear
The starter motors gear is made of a softer metal than the Ring gear, so if there is a misalignment the starters gear gets worn down not the Ring gear
Ring gear can be damaged just more likely to be starter gear
Grinding noise is misalignment between the two gears
This was a common issue with 2.9l engines and starters
There is a thin metal Block Plate between engine and bellhousing that is there to align starter motors nose to the Ring gear
Its often forgotten after new clutch is installed, lol, so never gets put back on
Block Plate looks like this: http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/w..._163700534.jpg
Or plate just gets worn out if starter bolts get loose and starter can shift positions
Many replace the ring gear/flywheel and still have the problem because its an alignment issue not starter motor or ring gear issue
Google: ford ranger 2.9l starter motor grinding
Literally 100's of hits for that, as said common issue
You can shim the starter to re-align it
Because the bolt holes in the starter can be too large for the bolts it makes alignment tough, I have read of people shimming the inside of bolt hole on one side to force starter alignment so it can't shift after tightening
It could be the ring gear is worn out, but I would look at other issues first
If you do decide on new flywheel then get a new Block Plate as well if you can find one
RonD - Ever heard of a double layer of aluminum for shimming the starter? My original block plate got cut down lower than the (3) starter holes.WRONG: It got cut above the starter 3 holes. I was struggling to rebolt the oil pan back in (long story) and needed access in back. So, I dremeled off the block plate down lower. I started another thread dedicated to getting a replacement block plate and found one on ebay. It came yesterday. Younger, less experienced guys took starter off engine/transmission and I didn't get to see how the starter was shimmed to transmission.
Basically, wondering if the block plate is proper/enough to align starter AND get the starter in the correct forward to aft positioning for correct engage with flywheel. OR should i use this other aluminum ring (that came off in pile the boys left me with) along with the used one I got yesterday. It is identical shape at the starter 3 through hole area. I believe both the old plate and the extra aluminum shim where used together. I need to talk with the more experienced boy for the story.
Used plate with mockup shown in attachment. I'll add the extra aluminum piece picture in later today. Thanks