Grabbing brakes
#1
Grabbing brakes
Hey all, long time no post.
I've noticed that my truck's front driver brake tends to grab under heavy braking or braking on slick surfaces. The other three seem ok.
If's fine under regular braking, they perform fine. This usually happens when I brake hard. I noticed it does it on ice and rain slick streets too.
I took off the tire and did a visual check. Everything looked fine. I made sure all bolts were tight, slider pins were lubed no leaking fluid or kinked hoses either.
The pads were replaced last summer, but it was doing this before.
Could it be a bad caliper?
I've noticed that my truck's front driver brake tends to grab under heavy braking or braking on slick surfaces. The other three seem ok.
If's fine under regular braking, they perform fine. This usually happens when I brake hard. I noticed it does it on ice and rain slick streets too.
I took off the tire and did a visual check. Everything looked fine. I made sure all bolts were tight, slider pins were lubed no leaking fluid or kinked hoses either.
The pads were replaced last summer, but it was doing this before.
Could it be a bad caliper?
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes could be caliper or flexible brake line is starting to break inside, usually not visible on the outside.
Do both front tires seem to spin the same, tight bearing on one side could cause easier braking on that side.
Feel if one side is warmer than the other after driving awhile, bearing or dragging brake pads will heat up the wheel, warmer brake parts grab faster
You could pull caliper and leave it hooked up, put a piece of wood in it so it can expand out but not pop out, and press down brake pedal to expand it out, then open bleeder to push it back in all the way, repeat, trying to remove any sticky spots.
Flex hose you just change on speculation, lol, no real test for those
Do both front tires seem to spin the same, tight bearing on one side could cause easier braking on that side.
Feel if one side is warmer than the other after driving awhile, bearing or dragging brake pads will heat up the wheel, warmer brake parts grab faster
You could pull caliper and leave it hooked up, put a piece of wood in it so it can expand out but not pop out, and press down brake pedal to expand it out, then open bleeder to push it back in all the way, repeat, trying to remove any sticky spots.
Flex hose you just change on speculation, lol, no real test for those
#3
Thanks for the tips.
No difference in temp. I jacked it up and spun the tires, both seem to spin freely too.
I'm gonna pick up a rebuild kit and new hose. The rebuild seems easy enough, and if I find something wrong during the rebuild, I'll get a new caliper. Easy enough.
Now let's talk brands of calipers. I'd rather use a local store than online shop due to the core return.
No one around here carries Motorcraft calipers on the shelf except for the dealership, along with their mark up. What's a good brand? Centric and Cardone (local shops), Brake Best (oreilly's), Duralast (Autozone) and NAPA, but I'm not sure who rebuild theirs.
No difference in temp. I jacked it up and spun the tires, both seem to spin freely too.
I'm gonna pick up a rebuild kit and new hose. The rebuild seems easy enough, and if I find something wrong during the rebuild, I'll get a new caliper. Easy enough.
Now let's talk brands of calipers. I'd rather use a local store than online shop due to the core return.
No one around here carries Motorcraft calipers on the shelf except for the dealership, along with their mark up. What's a good brand? Centric and Cardone (local shops), Brake Best (oreilly's), Duralast (Autozone) and NAPA, but I'm not sure who rebuild theirs.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
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