Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

How to install a limited slip unit

  #1  
Old 02-16-2006
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How to install a limited slip unit

I just got my limited slip unit, and I was wondering how to install this baby.

Also, how do i refill the differential with fluids after I installed the unit? Wouldn't it just leak back out?

Lastly, what else do i need for the install, besides the unit itself and differential fluid.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 02-16-2006
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it didn't come with instructions?

What kind of unit is it? I think most L/S units you just open the housing, remove the open carrier, put in the new L/S, seal it up with some gasket material, close it back up, and then put in your gear oil and friction modifier.
 
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Old 02-16-2006
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hold on hold on, you're in a world of hurt, I would not advise doing this yourself at this point. to install the L/S carrier you have to remove your carrier, swap the ring gear onto the L/S carrier, then reinstall the carrier setting the gear backlash and contact pattern. if you don't set it up perfectly correct you are going to blow your rear end to pieces right quickly. if you don't know how to do either find someone who does and has dont it before with success to give you a hand, or take it somewhere and pay to have it installed. if it si not done right and you blow your rear end up it will end up costing you ALOT more in the long run.
 
  #4  
Old 02-16-2006
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Originally Posted by Gearhead61
it didn't come with instructions?

What kind of unit is it? I think most L/S units you just open the housing, remove the open carrier, put in the new L/S, seal it up with some gasket material, close it back up, and then put in your gear oil and friction modifier.
that's pretty much it, minus a few important steps in between. Since you've got your rearend open you might as well let it drain completely out then reservice when you're done, which can be done throught the service and inspection hole on the front, drivers side of the housing. you will see a screw like think with a square cut into it. it's for a 3/8 rachet. you just pull that plug to inspect or in your case service it.

as for changing it, just jack the *** end up, put it on jackstands, chock the front wheels and put the truck in neutral so you can spin the wheels freely.
take off the diff cover, remove the cross shaft via a 5/16 bolt that's holding it, remove the spider gears, push in on the driver's side axle, remove C-Clip, repeat for passenger side, slide axles partially out of the tube to get them out of the way, remove carrier, remove ring gear, put ring gear on new carrier, reinstall carrier, check gear lash, and shim accordingly. Then reinstall everything, add gear lube and friction modifier.

this is very abbreviated....

make sure to give this unit at least 3-4 days to get broke in before you get rough with it!!! it needs to be broken in like a new motor before you start working with it or towing.
 
  #5  
Old 02-16-2006
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Originally Posted by TireIron
hold on hold on, you're in a world of hurt, I would not advise doing this yourself at this point. to install the L/S carrier you have to remove your carrier, swap the ring gear onto the L/S carrier, then reinstall the carrier setting the gear backlash and contact pattern. if you don't set it up perfectly correct you are going to blow your rear end to pieces right quickly. if you don't know how to do either find someone who does and has dont it before with success to give you a hand, or take it somewhere and pay to have it installed. if it si not done right and you blow your rear end up it will end up costing you ALOT more in the long run.


this is the smartest advice on this matter in my opinion!!! there is ALOT that has to be done and if not done right, you are talkin alot of money!!!
 
  #6  
Old 02-16-2006
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Read the how to on changing gears on RPS before you decide to do it yourself. It's very informative on how your differential works. I know you're not changing the pinion but, it contains the information needed to change the carrier. You can make an informed choice then.
 
  #7  
Old 02-16-2006
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yea, for a frame of reference I've unbolted and/or changed everything on my truck except for the motor (havent had any issues in 300K miles yet and am not expecting any) and I won't even do gears yet. I do not feel comfortable with my knowledge to set up pinion depth or backlash or contact pattern. when I get to the point where I need to go to 4.56s for 33s I'm going to find someone that can help me out and has experiance with it and go spend a weekend with them and give em some money to get it done... but yet when i get my hands on another motor I'm gonna rebuild it myself and swap it in and throw a belt driven accessory or two on it to make it breath right... but I still wont do gears.
 
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