Inner Wheel bearing - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 12-26-2007
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Inner Wheel bearing

My inner bearing on the front right tire exploded. Now I've got a replacement and its all fine but then I can't get the part that actually touches the spindle off. Its suppose to slide on and off but it doesn't. Anyone know anything that will get it off.
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2007
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If you mean the inner bearing race , I just heat it a little with a torch then use a cold chisel and ball peen hammer. Try to spin it on the spindle. If it doesn't loosen I cut it in half with the chisel.
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Old 12-26-2007
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yep, it's galled to the axle. I hope the heat and hammer and chisel gets it turning because your not likely to cut it with a chisel, they are very hard and I have had to cut them off with a acy/oxy torch and that is some delicate work.

If you can get a space between the back of it and the axle you may get it off with a puller and heat.
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Old 12-26-2007
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I have cut them with a chisel.It's not exactly a cut but they're brittle so you can crack it.But be sure to wear safety glasses and keep the chisel sharp as some pieces will flake off.
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Old 12-26-2007
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ok, I have a torch to cut with if its going to be a pain I just don't want to screw up the spindle at all. I'll give it a try with a propain torch first and see where that gets me then try the chisel.
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Old 12-27-2007
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prepare yourself. you may need a new spindle. there not that expensive.
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Old 12-27-2007
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Air hammer and heat......
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Old 12-27-2007
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Yep, there is more than one way to skin a spindle.
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Old 12-27-2007
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well I'm not going to buy a spindle. I know that much. I"m just going to get it off not matter what I have to do it. I know that a hub for my truck is not cheap.
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Old 12-27-2007
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You'll probably get it off, just keep trying.
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2007
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Try a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. Dont try to cut all the way through just about halfway or so and then smack it with a cold chisel...Should pop it in half. BUT BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES....HIGH SPEED PROJECTILES ARE NOT FUN IN YOUR EYE!!!
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Old 12-27-2007
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yeah using a chisel by its self wasn't working so I use the air cut off tool. I'm pretty much through it but I didn't want to get to fustrated with it. So I'm going to finish it tomorrow. I don't want to hit the spindle with the cut off tool so I'm going slow.
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Old 12-28-2007
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Cutoff wheel and air tool is good choice. You may still have to heat it to open it enough to get it off. On the other hand the hammer and chisel may free it up.
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Old 12-28-2007
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yeah I'm going to cut it down as much as I can and then take the air hammer and get it off. I'm pissed that its this much trouble to get the friggen thing of. I mean come on its a wheel bearing.
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  #15  
Old 12-29-2007
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DaGGer, I guess you know that wheel bearings give warnings before they self destruct. There should have been some noise. The reason the inner race is stuck is it was spinning on the axle for a while. It was probably a little blue wasn't it? You'll have clean the metal welded to the spindle before you put the new bearing on it. Use the new bearing to tell when it is clean.

I don't know what the Ford recommendation is but at least every time you put brakes on the front bearings should be cleaned, inspected and repacked and seals replaced. Replace any bad bearings at that time.

I prefer to do it about every 50K miles. If they sound noisey I pull and check them.
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Old 12-30-2007
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no it wasn't blue at all, there was no noise. not that I could have heard but then again I have a flowmaster 40 series dumped with a few exhaust leaks lol.
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  #17  
Old 12-30-2007
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Man, that's strange, most times there is some rumble and feeling in the steering wheel when a bearing goes.

Have you got the race off and the shaft cleaned up?
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Old 12-30-2007
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yeah I got everything back together. I hit the shaft a little but I got it as nice and smooth as I could. It took a little force to get it on there but I'm going to go and check everything out on thursday again on both sides and re torque everything.
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2007
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You should have used a file or embry cloth to take the high spots off so the bearing would slide on. Since it is tight I would torque it and then smack the outside of the rotor to drive the bearing on all the way and then loosen and retorque it. You don't want the bearing going farther on the axle and loosening up the torque setting, the bearing may fail again.
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