I have a 2011 Ford Ranger Sport 4.0 (125k)
Just had a new clutch, slave, throughout bearing, flywheel, rear transaxle seal , clutch master cylinder, and master cylinder replaced but the engagement with the pedal is like an inch from the floor!
I believe they didn't bleed it correctly so I took it back and they bled it again and it's good, I'm picking it up tomorrow morning but wanted to see if anyone has had any issues like this.
Any thoughts how why the pedal engages the clutch so close to the floor?

 

Did "they" use a self adjusting pressure(SAC) plate?

These cost a bit more but clutch pedal engage/disengage stays close to the middle of pedal travel

If its a regular pressure plate then yes, pedal will be at the floor to engage/disengage because clutch disc is new so THICK
As clutch disc gets worn down the engage/disengage will move up in pedal travel until its at the top and clutch starts to slip
That's just the way they work with internal slaves, in the "old days" there was an external slave and adjustment

Self adjusting pressure plates adjust to the thickness of the clutch disc, so pedal travels stays close to center as clutch disc wears down, until it starts to slip

One is not "better" than the other as far as longevity or performance, but one is cheaper, lol
Its strictly related to pedal travel

Regular pressure plate seen here: https://ic.carid.com/sachs/items/3082654412_1.jpg

Self adjusting seen here: https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...CNm/s-l300.jpg

See the 3 springs around the self-adjusting, thats the difference, they move the pressure plate closer and closer to flywheel as clutch disc gets thinner so pedal travel doesn't change

 

Thanks for the great info!
The other morning it was engaging so close to the floor that it "traveled" when I started it up. So I pulled it out of gear which was difficult and then couldn't get it back into any gear. So I shut it off put it in gear started it and drove off. I gets better as I drive it but it is also mushy at the top. The shop said they'd look at it again and maybe put dye in the fluid to see if there are any leaks because it feels to me like it needs to be bled like there's an air pocket in there. I've replace the clutch on other Rangers I've owned and haven't had this problem but they were older, a '99 was the last one I did and a '96 before that.

 

Hey! I just got quoted for pretty much all the work you just had done. Do you mind me asking how much it cost you in total? The shop gave me a quote around 2700. I thought that was a little steep, and asked for a description of the work / parts, and the pricing still doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks!

 

4x4 Ranger clutch should run $1,000-$1,200, includes, clutch/pressure plate, slave w/throwout bearing, pilot bearing
2WD $200 less
4x4 cost a bit more because you have to remove front drive shaft and usually transfer case as well

Make sure they use a self adjusting pressure plate

In a shop
2wd takes 4 hours
4x4, 5 hours
Clutch kit with self adjusting pressure plate cost $450 retail, $300 direct, the rest is labor

add-ons
Flywheel $170 installed, not usually needed
Master $150 installed, not usually needed
Rear main seal, $80, always good to do, but if its not leaking a judgement call

Yes, $2,700 must include other things not just doing the clutch work, don't even think a Ford Dealer would charge that much

 

$1800 but they also replaced the master cylinder

 

I just got my 96 3.0L done they had to cut the exhaust about then the trans removed got all NEW Motorcraft parts w/labor 1$1100.00
the pedal is very low from the floor when releasing but was told that is factory. So I'm getting used to it. GL

 

So that clutch was crap in 6 months. I took it elsewhere, and it's been 2 years with no problem.
But they showed me, the previous shop didn't replace the flywheel.