L/S, no slip, lock rite - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 01-26-2012
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L/S, no slip, lock rite

doing some reading-cant find the answer to this question.
i have manual hubs which can be a pain in the *** because you got to get up and lock them in to use 4x4. i find myself in many situations where all i need the 4x4 to be on is in a small hill where i parked or ill just use it for 10 seconds and be done. i dont want to keep the hubs locked in all winter because gas is bad enough-ya im one of those...so looking for a locker that will give me power to both wheels when i need it so if im trying to park on a lil mound of snow my back right tire doesnt just slip when the other rear has perfect traction to get me up all the way. so many differ kinds of lockers and l/s and no slips and i just get lost. and i have a hard time switching to a 8.8 simply becuase my 7.5 is brand new and i hate to get a used 8.8 and have it break and be screwed.
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Old 01-26-2012
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As much as you dont want to replace your rear end, its the best choice. If you get an Explorer axle it comes stock with a L/S. Mine cost me $150 and the thing looked brand new inside.

But if you really dont want to switch it you can get either a Locker or a L/S. Pros and cons to both.
The locker (if its a full time) will lock up when ever one wheel starts to slip. This can be bad because when you go around a corner the outside wheel will lock and skid until you straiten out. Its going to add extra wear to your system. You can get an E-locker and then its only on when you want but that will cost you around $600 new.

The L/S is great but not worth putting in a 7.5 IMO. Its going to be pretty pricy but will do the job great. The decision is up to you.
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Old 01-26-2012
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If you want a locker, get something that is selectable on or off because being fully locked isn't very road friendly and after seeing you drive last weekend the *** end of your truck will bounce around on turns lol.

My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
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Old 01-26-2012
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Well It would be cheaper to spend an extra $20 in fuel than $400 on a locker. Those lunch box lockers can be sketchy in the snow and cause you to spin out in 2wd. I thought about putting in a selectable locker but it is too expensive for the amount of time I would use it.
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Old 01-26-2012
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Originally Posted by leadfoot View Post
Well It would be cheaper to spend an extra $20 in fuel than $400 on a locker. Those lunch box lockers can be sketchy in the snow and cause you to spin out in 2wd. I thought about putting in a selectable locker but it is too expensive for the amount of time I would use it.
x2 i kept my hubs locked during the winter. Not that big of a difference really
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Old 01-26-2012
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Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
If you want a locker, get something that is selectable on or off because being fully locked isn't very road friendly and after seeing you drive last weekend the *** end of your truck will bounce around on turns lol.

My truck had a LS from the factory in the 7.5 and when i blew it up and went 8.8 i bought a new ford racing LS on summit for $195. Easy to put in.
$195? Damn that almost what it cost to rebuild one...
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Old 01-26-2012
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haha what do you mean how i drive? im an awesome driver...
and the 8.8 in rangers(except the level II's) stock are really not any better than the 7.5's there pretty much the same size. the shafts and width as well as spline count is the same. and the down side with the expo rears are...it looks like alot of fabrication to get them to work-mounting pads, shock mounts, if you blow a shaft your tire can fall out. wtf! + you have to weld the outer shaft to the diff. because i guess the inner clips can fail...idk
and i think if i did go locked-i think the selectable ones are the best, i agree! unfortunantely like you said there 600+ new. i need an electric eaton for $920 new. for that ill get off my *** and lock in the hubs.

i mean with the 8.8 expo were talking tube welding, pad cutting and welding, shock mount relocation, new driveshaft, pinion angles, and disc brakes, new u bolts. sounds like alot of money? i mean i could be wrong

Last edited by Kris03; 01-26-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 01-26-2012
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Originally Posted by Kris03 View Post
the down side with the expo rears are...it looks like alot of fabrication to get them to work-mounting pads, shock mounts, if you blow a shaft your tire can fall out. wtf! + you have to weld the outer shaft to the diff. because i guess the inner clips can fail...idk
My expo took me 2.5 days to put in only because I sanded the whole thing down, painted it, and took it to a shop to have them weld it for me. It really is not hard at all...
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Old 01-26-2012
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thats not too bad. when all said and done-how much are we talking?
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Old 01-26-2012
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All depends on how much you want to spend.
Expos come with L/S as stated.
Ox-Locker, switchable, the heaviest duty diff on the market can be either controlled by a lever/cable setup or ann electric actuation kit - $850 to 900 for just the diff.
ARB - Air actuated switchable locker, HD. $800

An Aussie Locker or other locker that stays in can raise havoc on the street in the winter so unless you like fighting the @ss-end of the truck think on these a little harder. $300 ~

Good Limited Slips put you in the same spot as the Aussie and the like ones, once you start to slip. $300

Then there is the gears - $200, a rebuilding kit $40, wheel bearing $75 plus install.

Think on it before buying.
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Old 01-26-2012
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i dont know from the sounds of it...looks like go big or go home kind of deal. maybe once i get really crazy with the off roading (suspension lifts and coil overs and engine swaps and roll cages, winches and eventually do the 8.8 swap) then ill look into it. thanks guys!
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Old 01-27-2012
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thats not too bad. when all said and done-how much are we talking?
How much for price total? $150 for the unit, $50 for paints-wire disks-tape-and cutoff disks, $20 for the new spring pads, $40 for welding.

Total Cost: $260 but I spent a lil more then you have to...
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Old 01-27-2012
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There are lockers that don't lock up around turns other than e lockers. Look into lock rite lockers, they do not lock up when your not going straight.
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Old 01-27-2012
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260 isnt too bad actually-i gotta find some sources to help me cut and weld of course.


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There are lockers that don't lock up around turns other than e lockers. Look into lock rite lockers, they do not lock up when your not going straight.
so in order for them to lock in-you have to be going straight correct?
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Old 01-27-2012
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so in order for them to lock in-you have to be going straight correct?
More info here: http://www.powertrax.com/lockright.html

From the website:

"The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation. When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need."

I've got the No-Slip (also made my Powertrax) and love it. It functions the same as the Lock-Right...but has better "on-road manners" which you have to pay more for (an extra $80-100). It performs quieter and has better road manners for street usage than the Lock-Right.
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Old 01-27-2012
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260 isnt too bad actually-i gotta find some sources to help me cut and weld of course.
The cutting was just with a grinder and cut-off disks... Took me like 15 min for each but I went slow and careful.
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2012
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the no slip sounds like something that i want. im gunna do some searching...thanks guys

and as for the 8.8-maybe i can find one that came off a ranger fx4 lvl2. cutting doesnt sound like a problem. i have a grinder but the welding im more converned with. not sure of any locations that does welding. my local shop may

found the lock rights-go for about 412 on summit
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2012
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i may have just scored one for 50 bucks. i have no details yet but the guy that has two explorers thats selling me the leaf springs has one but its missing the short side tube? im not sure what he means but this may be good for me!
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2012
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To clear this up, not ALL Explorer 8.8's have limited slip. I almost bought one without limited slip and with the incorrect gearing for my truck a few weeks back. Just so happens that I thought to check the door sticker and look at the axle code. I saved a photo that has all the axle information on my phone and took it to Pull-a-Part with me. I wound up finding the correct 3.73 L/S 8.8 for my truck. You need to ask this guy for the axle codes on those 8.8's and check to see if they are limited slip and have the gear ratio you're looking for.
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Old 01-27-2012
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Ya ill be sure to look at the sticker on the pumpkin. Im hoping its what i think it is but im not sure what the short shaft is. I thought it was equal. It may be the front diff. Idk. I think what ill do is takr ypur guys advice suck it up sell my new 7.5 and get an 8.8
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Old 01-27-2012
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Originally Posted by mthomp1 View Post
To clear this up, not ALL Explorer 8.8's have limited slip. I almost bought one without limited slip and with the incorrect gearing for my truck a few weeks back. Just so happens that I thought to check the door sticker and look at the axle code. I saved a photo that has all the axle information on my phone and took it to Pull-a-Part with me. I wound up finding the correct 3.73 L/S 8.8 for my truck. You need to ask this guy for the axle codes on those 8.8's and check to see if they are limited slip and have the gear ratio you're looking for.
Most explorers have L/S. it's rare to find one without. Also your dumb if you don't check the tags before hand.

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Originally Posted by Kris03 View Post
Ya ill be sure to look at the sticker on the pumpkin. Im hoping its what i think it is but im not sure what the short shaft is. I thought it was equal. It may be the front diff. Idk. I think what ill do is takr ypur guys advice suck it up sell my new 7.5 and get an 8.8
Get one man. You won't regret it. Trust me. Also make sure you crack open the pumpkin when you're checking it out. Check the gears for chips, scratches etc.
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2012
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Originally Posted by Mcleary316 View Post
Most explorers have L/S. it's rare to find one without. Also your dumb if you don't check the tags before hand.



Get one man. You won't regret it. Trust me. Also make sure you crack open the pumpkin when you're checking it out. Check the gears for chips, scratches etc.
Perfect i was wondering what i should look at before i buy. Thanks guys! If i find scratches or chips whats the cost to replace or should i walk away.
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  #23  
Old 01-28-2012
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Originally Posted by Mcleary316 View Post
Most explorers have L/S. it's rare to find one without. Also your dumb if you don't check the tags before hand.
Out of the 20 or so (literally) Explorers that I've come across in junkyards over the past few weeks, only two of them were limited slip.

And *you're.
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Old 01-28-2012
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why not just rebuild the clutches in your 7.5? it's the off road package so it should be L/S. I have lockrite and it work great but sometimes acts like a full open
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Old 01-28-2012
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you would think it would be but when i looked at the tag and the door sill codes it was saying its an open diff.
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