Lock-Right and Trac-Lok Coming
Lock-Right and Trac-Lok Coming
I bought a Lock-Right from Richmond Gear and a Trac-Lok from Ford on eBay this week. Just wondering if anyone had special tips on installation or whatnot. Justin (Toreador4x4) will be helping me with it and he's quite experienced.
I know the Trac-Lok requires me to resetup the backlash if I read correctly. I'm also getting the bearing kit to replace it all while I'm in there.
Thanks.
I know the Trac-Lok requires me to resetup the backlash if I read correctly. I'm also getting the bearing kit to replace it all while I'm in there.
Thanks.
Tracklok for the rear? I didnt think they made a lock right for the front though.
no need to adjust anything for the lock-right really, just toss it in and go. that is what i did. but if you are replacing bearings then you will need to check that stuff. I wouldnt replace the bearings unless they are scared. which i doubt they are unless it is or was full of water at some point.
trac-loc shouldnt be bad but i am assuming its a new carrier which will require everything to be checked out.
no need to adjust anything for the lock-right really, just toss it in and go. that is what i did. but if you are replacing bearings then you will need to check that stuff. I wouldnt replace the bearings unless they are scared. which i doubt they are unless it is or was full of water at some point.
trac-loc shouldnt be bad but i am assuming its a new carrier which will require everything to be checked out.
Tracklok for the rear? I didnt think they made a lock right for the front though.
no need to adjust anything for the lock-right really, just toss it in and go. that is what i did. but if you are replacing bearings then you will need to check that stuff. I wouldnt replace the bearings unless they are scared. which i doubt they are unless it is or was full of water at some point.
trac-loc shouldnt be bad but i am assuming its a new carrier which will require everything to be checked out.
no need to adjust anything for the lock-right really, just toss it in and go. that is what i did. but if you are replacing bearings then you will need to check that stuff. I wouldnt replace the bearings unless they are scared. which i doubt they are unless it is or was full of water at some point.
trac-loc shouldnt be bad but i am assuming its a new carrier which will require everything to be checked out.
As far as the front, Richmond lists that they sell a Lock Right for the D35 so lets hope it works. It was actually an eBay auction linked from this site. I also don't place on doing anything with the front bearing or anything. Just install and go from the cheap instructions I've seen so far. lol
if it does work, which i really cant remember which ones do in the front it will be fairly simple. remove the carrier, pull the spiders out and drop in the locker, its pretty easy over all.
idk i suppose new bearings on the rear but its not really needed unless the oil is never changed, though it will be just as easy since you have a new carrier. should have got another loc-rite for the rear. :)
idk i suppose new bearings on the rear but its not really needed unless the oil is never changed, though it will be just as easy since you have a new carrier. should have got another loc-rite for the rear. :)
I'm not sure if the part number for a standard d35 if the same for the ford ifs. I would double check.
Also I'm not sure what you paid, but the aussie is normally cheaper.
But it will be cool either way. Install on the locker is super easy. When you pull the diff you can do it without removing both wheels. Pull one side CV out of the wheel hub/bearing, and the other side can pop out of the diff while moving the diff away. It will save a few minutes anyway.
Also I'm not sure what you paid, but the aussie is normally cheaper.
But it will be cool either way. Install on the locker is super easy. When you pull the diff you can do it without removing both wheels. Pull one side CV out of the wheel hub/bearing, and the other side can pop out of the diff while moving the diff away. It will save a few minutes anyway.
I'm not sure if the part number for a standard d35 if the same for the ford ifs. I would double check.
Also I'm not sure what you paid, but the aussie is normally cheaper.
But it will be cool either way. Install on the locker is super easy. When you pull the diff you can do it without removing both wheels. Pull one side CV out of the wheel hub/bearing, and the other side can pop out of the diff while moving the diff away. It will save a few minutes anyway.
Also I'm not sure what you paid, but the aussie is normally cheaper.
But it will be cool either way. Install on the locker is super easy. When you pull the diff you can do it without removing both wheels. Pull one side CV out of the wheel hub/bearing, and the other side can pop out of the diff while moving the diff away. It will save a few minutes anyway.
And that's how we got the differential in if I recall. My truck used to be 2wd :)
Well you can't beat $90! That's great!
The front locker isn't much fun in the snow, fyi. It is still drivable but it is definitely different and you need to be careful with it on snow covered roads. I found it fine on the open highway, but it was almost easier to move around turn in 2wd. I remember driving through a town with snow covered roads and switching from 4x4 to 4x2 a lot.
If your truck use to be 2wd, you are going to love the traction of a locker. The limited slip is nice on mild roads, but the locker is just awesome.
Consider keeping spare CVs and oil close by.
The front locker isn't much fun in the snow, fyi. It is still drivable but it is definitely different and you need to be careful with it on snow covered roads. I found it fine on the open highway, but it was almost easier to move around turn in 2wd. I remember driving through a town with snow covered roads and switching from 4x4 to 4x2 a lot.
If your truck use to be 2wd, you are going to love the traction of a locker. The limited slip is nice on mild roads, but the locker is just awesome.
Consider keeping spare CVs and oil close by.
I'm guessing you're selling the 4.56 gears? I want to buy them so so bad but the funding doesn't permit me to.
And the traction I'm going to have will be awesome. I live in BFE so I won't really have to worry about sharp turns or whatnot.
And the traction I'm going to have will be awesome. I live in BFE so I won't really have to worry about sharp turns or whatnot.
But with a rear locker it was very capable even in 2wd. I still think the ideal setup would be a locker in the rear and limited slip in the front, but you don't get that option with a ranger.
That's good. It seems like after I had the front locker I used 4x4 less often since the steering was much heavier and I was worried about breaking stuff.
But with a rear locker it was very capable even in 2wd. I still think the ideal setup would be a locker in the rear and limited slip in the front, but you don't get that option with a ranger.
But with a rear locker it was very capable even in 2wd. I still think the ideal setup would be a locker in the rear and limited slip in the front, but you don't get that option with a ranger.
a LSD in the front would be sweet, I put one in Evans dana44, and that is alot different compared to my locker. much smoother and transfers the power very differently.
I haven't driven anything with a front limited slip, but it's got to be better than an aussie up there. Don't get me wrong the traction was awesome offroad, but for a daily driver and being around snow, it is different.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ial-guide.html
It needs to be updated, but it has links to the differential I'm talking about.
Well the Traction-Lok is here. Had a little scare with it though, the plastic bag it was in inside the box was labeled as a 8.8 31 spline but I made sure to count them and sure enough it's a 28 spline like the auction said. So now I'm waiting on the front locker. Yay!
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