My transfer case blew
#27
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i would run a 1354 from a '95-'97 Ranger....stronger t-case than the 1350.....and it doesn't have a slip joint in the t-case.....the only difference in the '97 1354 and '98+ 1354 is the front driveshaft connection...
ok, id need more then that
cause right now, the 1350 is FREE and sitting in my garage (with 2 front driveshafts) and a 1354 will COST me money
#28
Maurice, thanks for the info. Getting the speedo to work would be very nice indeed. It would make my error "worth it". lol. The next question (probably for rwenzig) is whether the speed output sensor would adapt to the 2004 electronics. There is some issue with a square weave signal, I remember reading that from him a while back with someone else. Even getting an aftermarket speedo would be fine. At this point the only working guages are tach and fuel level. Converting them all over to aftermarket would be pretty cool in itself.
#29
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
all Rangers from i think '95+ has the BW1354 t-case......IF he gets a 1354 from a '95-'97 Ranger, then yes he will need a new front driveshaft to mate to the double cardon joint at the driveshaft, BUT if he gets a 1354 out of a '98+ EVERYTHING will bolt up just like normal......including the front and rear driveshafts.....
and i can't remember which years, but i believe that Rangers and 1354's had the speed sensor in the t-case.....so if he gets that year t-case, then he could also solve his speed sensor problem also.....even if it ment a new front driveshaft so he would have the double cardon, it would solve his speedodomer issue (if he already hasn't)
and i can't remember which years, but i believe that Rangers and 1354's had the speed sensor in the t-case.....so if he gets that year t-case, then he could also solve his speed sensor problem also.....even if it ment a new front driveshaft so he would have the double cardon, it would solve his speedodomer issue (if he already hasn't)
I found one in e-bay. Any guess on speed sensor (was the explorer sensor in the rear end?) Also, does the pic show which front driveshaft is needed?
Here is what it shows to fit:
90-95 FORD EXPLORER 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
Up for auction is one used TRANSFER CASE. It will fit any
90-95 FORD EXPLORER 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
90 FORD BRONCO II 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
94 MAZDA B2300 3000 4000 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
91 MAZDA NAVAJO 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
90-94 FORD RANGER 4X4 WARNER 1354 TRANSFER CASE
If you have any questions feel free to contact me.
Last edited by graniteguy; 08-26-2008 at 11:08 AM.
#31
Originally Posted by graniteguy
Except a 13-50 from a Bronco II. It was wierd. The 13-50 had a plug where the front drive shaft should connect. Did they put these in 2wd and 4wd Bronco II's? Never seen anything like it.
Originally Posted by ScottG
im just looking into the pro's and cons of running a 1350 on a 98+ 4x4
Some owners have retrofitted the 13-50 behind a 4.0L. The factory never did though. That might be a clue...
#32
#33
Originally Posted by graniteguy
Maurice, thanks for the info. Getting the speedo to work would be very nice indeed. It would make my error "worth it". lol. The next question (probably for rwenzig) is whether the speed output sensor would adapt to the 2004 electronics. There is some issue with a square weave signal, I remember reading that from him a while back with someone else. Even getting an aftermarket speedo would be fine.
98~2003 Rangers are different. They use one of 3 modules to read a low voltage wave from a sensor at the rear axle or transmission, depending on the year. That frequency of that wave is used by the module to calculate and output a 12VDC square wave for the speedometer and other "users" like the speed control and 4x4 Module. Correction factors for tire diameter and axle ratio can be flashed into the module.
1995~2003 Ford electric speedometers are standardized to an 8000 pulses/mile 12VDC square wave. That's why you can easily swap speedometers among those years.
For 2004+, things change again. In your truck, the signal from the trans sensor (OSS) is read by the PCM and a corrected square wave is sent to all other user modules EXCEPT the speedometer. Vehicle speed info for the speedometer is sent from the PCM separately over the SCP bus of the Module Communications Network. Since it is a separate signal, I have to believe that it is in a completely different format.
So, to get to the point, I don't see how you could make the 2004 Ranger speedometer work with the 95~97 signal generator. However you should be able to get it working if you install a 95~97 Ranger transfer case and find an aftermarket speedometer that is compatible with the 8000 pulse/mile square wave.
#34
aftermarket speedo is no problem. Thanks for the info. The 200 miles i drove it with out a speedo, the GPS unit did just fine. If I have to stick with that I can work with it.
Reading between the lines-- the dummy 1350 unit from the Bii. There's one at the pick 'n pull for $65. Sounds like I can mount that to my truck and not connet the front driveshaft. The rear drive shaft will bolt on? no adapters or driveshaft swap needed for the rear?
That could get me back on the road again. get the new tranny debugged- shifting correctly, etc. Once I find a real transfer case at a decent price I'm back with 4x4.
Reading between the lines-- the dummy 1350 unit from the Bii. There's one at the pick 'n pull for $65. Sounds like I can mount that to my truck and not connet the front driveshaft. The rear drive shaft will bolt on? no adapters or driveshaft swap needed for the rear?
That could get me back on the road again. get the new tranny debugged- shifting correctly, etc. Once I find a real transfer case at a decent price I'm back with 4x4.
#35
#36
no the rear output of the 1350 and 1354 are identical, they both use companion flanges. It's the FRONT outputs that are different. Id say to go for a 1354 from a 90-97 ranger or a 91-96 explorer and get a front driveshaft from a 95 or 96 explorer as it will be the correct length for that style 1354 and the IFS D35.
#37
Originally Posted by TireIron
no the rear output of the 1350 and 1354 are identical, they both use companion flanges. .
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
do NOT get a 1350.....you will have to redo your rear driveshaft setup.....the slip joint is in the t-case, not the driveshaft.......you would much rather have it in the driveshaft...
#38
#40
I have the 1350 "dummy" case in my hands. I had to swap the rear output adapters to make it fit my driveshaft. That was easy enough. The big question:
Does it need oil? lol. Serious question though. This is a dummy case. There is no front driveshaft connection. Apparently Ford put this case in 2wd BII's so the same driveshaft and same odometer cable output could be used.
No drain or fill plugs on the unit.And it is LIGHT in weight. Wow. what a difference between the two.
Does it need oil? lol. Serious question though. This is a dummy case. There is no front driveshaft connection. Apparently Ford put this case in 2wd BII's so the same driveshaft and same odometer cable output could be used.
No drain or fill plugs on the unit.And it is LIGHT in weight. Wow. what a difference between the two.
#41
#46
no. I managed to drive 200 miles without oil in the original case.lol. Not bad I guess.
All went well. I didn't push it because there is an open hole in the top where the speedo cable attaches. I just drove it a couple of miles.
I had tightened the TV cable based on the 200 mile run. The shift into second is now about right. Before it was shifting too soon.
All went well. I didn't push it because there is an open hole in the top where the speedo cable attaches. I just drove it a couple of miles.
I had tightened the TV cable based on the 200 mile run. The shift into second is now about right. Before it was shifting too soon.
#47
#49
Originally Posted by graniteguy
no. I managed to drive 200 miles without oil in the original case.lol. Not bad I guess.
All went well. I didn't push it because there is an open hole in the top where the speedo cable attaches. I just drove it a couple of miles.
I had tightened the TV cable based on the 200 mile run. The shift into second is now about right. Before it was shifting too soon.
All went well. I didn't push it because there is an open hole in the top where the speedo cable attaches. I just drove it a couple of miles.
I had tightened the TV cable based on the 200 mile run. The shift into second is now about right. Before it was shifting too soon.
so do you like it? glad you did the swap? anyway to compare this to the 5R55E