My transfer case blew - Page 4 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #76  
Old 09-18-2007
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The drive is much better after detorquing them. I'm hoping the rear will be the same once the new shocks go on and I get it to the correct adjustment for ride quality.
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  #77  
Old 09-18-2007
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swweet!
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  #78  
Old 09-19-2007
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Got the truck back from the alignment shop. Wow. No more steering wheel vibration. Very nice.

The problem was moved temporarily to the rear wheels. The wheel that was on the front (out of alignment) got moved to the back. I get a nice bop,bop.bop out of the rear now. Hopefully the tread will even out over the next couple 100 miles.

Shocks will be in Thursday. I never thought about new u bolts from taking out the blocks. Thanks Zach. That would have been a project killer. Hopefully a parts store will have them..
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  #79  
Old 09-19-2007
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Yeah it would be a project killer. I have forgotten about them before, luckily a spring shop close by can bend them up on the fly.
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  #80  
Old 09-19-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy
Shocks will be in Thursday. I never thought about new u bolts from taking out the blocks. Thanks Zach. That would have been a project killer. Hopefully a parts store will have them..
most parts stores (O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa) wont have them.....that is something that you have to either get made or from a dealer....

glad you got her back and she is driving good now!
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  #81  
Old 09-19-2007
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If you have trouble getting some I can have some made for 24 bucks total.
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  #82  
Old 09-19-2007
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lucked out. Popped into Advanced Auto parts and they had the U-bolts. They had about 5-6 sizes in stock. 7" would work based on the measurements I took. I got 1/2" x 3" x 8".
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  #83  
Old 09-20-2007
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3" ? wouldnt it be 2.75? I thought the 28 spline was 2.75. Either way that is only an 1/8" per side i guess.
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  #84  
Old 09-20-2007
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You're probably right. We'll see. The spring shop is on the other side of town. It's out of my way.


Talked to my Tranny guy who sold me the trany. The shifting issue is a TV cable adjustment. Sounds like I don't have enough tension on the cable while the Throttle body is closed. he doesn't want me driving it until I can check it and adjust it. I made sure all the cable was pulled out at WOT, but he says the cable needs to have between a 1/4' and 1/2" of pull out while the throttle is closed. Thats how it resets itself. He thinks the valve is stuck in a closed position.

Easy enough once I get an hour to tinker with it.
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  #85  
Old 09-23-2007
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Look what I found close to the house. Isn't that a speedo cable above the flange?

http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/424178020.html
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  #86  
Old 09-24-2007
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yea thats a standard 1354 electric shift. It has a yoke front output and a flange rear ouput and yes thats a speedo cable coming out of it as in '93 they were mechanical speedometers. If you want an electric shift case then 150 isn't too bad of a price for a complete case especially if the electric shift motor works... If you go and look at it, just spin the input and output shafts and check the end play in them to make sure everything feels good and tight. It's very rare that these cases go bad and very difficult to destroy them so if it's in good shape then all you will need is a front driveshaft from a 95-96 explorer to bolt right in or to shorten a shaft from a 91-97 ranger or 91-94 explorer.
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  #87  
Old 09-24-2007
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I got it and installed it. I had to swap out the rear output flange and the electric shift motor cause it had a different plug.

I got the driveshaft with it but haven't tested it for fitment. If I read you right, the length is too long on a 93? Anyways, I have it all installed except front driveshaft. The 4x4 light comes on when I flip the switch so it seems that it is all functioning.

One last thing- there are extra wires in the case. There's a plug at the speedo cable area and a large brown wire that goes into the case. None of these are on the original case. Any idea what they do?
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  #88  
Old 09-24-2007
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Quote:
My recollection is that some of the early brown wire mods were done on the 95 -96 which have 2wd/4auto/4low so that you can get 2wd low range.

The brown wire mod prevents the transfer case clutch from engaging when the current is switched off (by disconnecting the brown wire). So it should work with your truck.

The part that is different compared to the 97 -01 trucks is they do not have a vacuum disconnect for the front diff. However, 2wd low should work the same.

The brown wire mod does not work on the 5.0L AWD trucks because the AWD system is mechanical only and is always engaged.

The 4.0L Control Trac 4WD is referred to as 4Auto in the service manual and the 5.0L 4WD is called AWD.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ght=brown+wire


dont know if that means anything for you
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  #89  
Old 09-24-2007
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You're the king of thread remembrance. Is that a word? Rememberance?
I'll look through it.
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  #90  
Old 09-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy
You're the king of thread remembrance. Is that a word? Rememberance?
I'll look through it.

man, how can i forget this one, its call "brown wire mod"




oh, and if only i could get a job (that pays) as a Thread Remembrance Guy, id be good at it
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  #91  
Old 09-24-2007
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That site confused me.It covered 1995+, I'm dealing with a 1993explorer 13-54 with a brown wire, but am unsure what it does and if is needed for 4wd to function.

The other two wires seem to feed a sensor at the speedo cable. This was posted here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
95~97 Ranger speedometers read directly from a gear driven "signal generator" on the transmission or transfer case. It is adjusted for axle and tire diameter errors using a range of small interchangeable gears, similar to how a cable driven speedo would be corrected. The output pulse is wired directly to the speedo/odo.
I have a speedo cable and a 2 wire sensor where the cable comes out. I wonder if this is what Rwenzig is describing?
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  #92  
Old 10-01-2007
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yes the 93 front shaft should be too long by about 2 inchs, however you can just measure the distance from yoke to yoke and take it to a driveline shop and have it shortened and balanced. If you plan to do that though, might as well go ahead and replace the 3 u-joints in it first.


Any extra wires should not affect how it works because you used your shift motor which is still controlled by the same wires that were always there. As long as you have a 1354 and not the AWD 4404 or 4405 then everything should work fine. Can you get a picture of the extra wire/wires and that extra plug? on the older cases (like mine) they had a cable driven speedo which also had two wires going to it for the OBD-1 style VSS. But if you can get a picture of those wire/s plug then it should help to figure out what it is.
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  #93  
Old 10-02-2007
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I'll get some pics. Two of the wires sound like what you described. The other is a brown wire. ScottG posted a link about the brown wire. It sounds like this was a part of the active 4wd on some Explorers. The brown wire allows the vehicle to kick in and out of 4wd instantly to regain traction in bad weather.
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  #94  
Old 10-02-2007
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that brown wire mod is for the 2nd and 3rd gen explorers and is totally different, it is for the 4404 and 4405 AWD t-cases. the 1354 is a completely different case and a 93 would be a 1st gen explorer anyway.
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  #95  
Old 10-02-2007
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Yeah. Thats what confused me reading the "brown wire" link that scottG posted. Nothing in it related to a first gen explorer.

I'll get pics later. It's definately a thick brown wire all by itself.
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  #96  
Old 03-21-2008
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hey, old thread bump


did you ever get rid of the dummy transfer case from the b2?
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  #97  
Old 03-21-2008
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I still have it.
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