My transfer case blew
#76
#78
Got the truck back from the alignment shop. Wow. No more steering wheel vibration. Very nice.
The problem was moved temporarily to the rear wheels. The wheel that was on the front (out of alignment) got moved to the back. I get a nice bop,bop.bop out of the rear now. Hopefully the tread will even out over the next couple 100 miles.
Shocks will be in Thursday. I never thought about new u bolts from taking out the blocks. Thanks Zach. That would have been a project killer. Hopefully a parts store will have them..
The problem was moved temporarily to the rear wheels. The wheel that was on the front (out of alignment) got moved to the back. I get a nice bop,bop.bop out of the rear now. Hopefully the tread will even out over the next couple 100 miles.
Shocks will be in Thursday. I never thought about new u bolts from taking out the blocks. Thanks Zach. That would have been a project killer. Hopefully a parts store will have them..
#80
Originally Posted by graniteguy
Shocks will be in Thursday. I never thought about new u bolts from taking out the blocks. Thanks Zach. That would have been a project killer. Hopefully a parts store will have them..
glad you got her back and she is driving good now!
#82
#84
You're probably right. We'll see. The spring shop is on the other side of town. It's out of my way.
Talked to my Tranny guy who sold me the trany. The shifting issue is a TV cable adjustment. Sounds like I don't have enough tension on the cable while the Throttle body is closed. he doesn't want me driving it until I can check it and adjust it. I made sure all the cable was pulled out at WOT, but he says the cable needs to have between a 1/4' and 1/2" of pull out while the throttle is closed. Thats how it resets itself. He thinks the valve is stuck in a closed position.
Easy enough once I get an hour to tinker with it.
Talked to my Tranny guy who sold me the trany. The shifting issue is a TV cable adjustment. Sounds like I don't have enough tension on the cable while the Throttle body is closed. he doesn't want me driving it until I can check it and adjust it. I made sure all the cable was pulled out at WOT, but he says the cable needs to have between a 1/4' and 1/2" of pull out while the throttle is closed. Thats how it resets itself. He thinks the valve is stuck in a closed position.
Easy enough once I get an hour to tinker with it.
#86
yea thats a standard 1354 electric shift. It has a yoke front output and a flange rear ouput and yes thats a speedo cable coming out of it as in '93 they were mechanical speedometers. If you want an electric shift case then 150 isn't too bad of a price for a complete case especially if the electric shift motor works... If you go and look at it, just spin the input and output shafts and check the end play in them to make sure everything feels good and tight. It's very rare that these cases go bad and very difficult to destroy them so if it's in good shape then all you will need is a front driveshaft from a 95-96 explorer to bolt right in or to shorten a shaft from a 91-97 ranger or 91-94 explorer.
#87
I got it and installed it. I had to swap out the rear output flange and the electric shift motor cause it had a different plug.
I got the driveshaft with it but haven't tested it for fitment. If I read you right, the length is too long on a 93? Anyways, I have it all installed except front driveshaft. The 4x4 light comes on when I flip the switch so it seems that it is all functioning.
One last thing- there are extra wires in the case. There's a plug at the speedo cable area and a large brown wire that goes into the case. None of these are on the original case. Any idea what they do?
I got the driveshaft with it but haven't tested it for fitment. If I read you right, the length is too long on a 93? Anyways, I have it all installed except front driveshaft. The 4x4 light comes on when I flip the switch so it seems that it is all functioning.
One last thing- there are extra wires in the case. There's a plug at the speedo cable area and a large brown wire that goes into the case. None of these are on the original case. Any idea what they do?
#88
My recollection is that some of the early brown wire mods were done on the 95 -96 which have 2wd/4auto/4low so that you can get 2wd low range.
The brown wire mod prevents the transfer case clutch from engaging when the current is switched off (by disconnecting the brown wire). So it should work with your truck.
The part that is different compared to the 97 -01 trucks is they do not have a vacuum disconnect for the front diff. However, 2wd low should work the same.
The brown wire mod does not work on the 5.0L AWD trucks because the AWD system is mechanical only and is always engaged.
The 4.0L Control Trac 4WD is referred to as 4Auto in the service manual and the 5.0L 4WD is called AWD.
The brown wire mod prevents the transfer case clutch from engaging when the current is switched off (by disconnecting the brown wire). So it should work with your truck.
The part that is different compared to the 97 -01 trucks is they do not have a vacuum disconnect for the front diff. However, 2wd low should work the same.
The brown wire mod does not work on the 5.0L AWD trucks because the AWD system is mechanical only and is always engaged.
The 4.0L Control Trac 4WD is referred to as 4Auto in the service manual and the 5.0L 4WD is called AWD.
dont know if that means anything for you
#90
#91
That site confused me.It covered 1995+, I'm dealing with a 1993explorer 13-54 with a brown wire, but am unsure what it does and if is needed for 4wd to function.
The other two wires seem to feed a sensor at the speedo cable. This was posted here:
I have a speedo cable and a 2 wire sensor where the cable comes out. I wonder if this is what Rwenzig is describing?
The other two wires seem to feed a sensor at the speedo cable. This was posted here:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
95~97 Ranger speedometers read directly from a gear driven "signal generator" on the transmission or transfer case. It is adjusted for axle and tire diameter errors using a range of small interchangeable gears, similar to how a cable driven speedo would be corrected. The output pulse is wired directly to the speedo/odo.
#92
yes the 93 front shaft should be too long by about 2 inchs, however you can just measure the distance from yoke to yoke and take it to a driveline shop and have it shortened and balanced. If you plan to do that though, might as well go ahead and replace the 3 u-joints in it first.
Any extra wires should not affect how it works because you used your shift motor which is still controlled by the same wires that were always there. As long as you have a 1354 and not the AWD 4404 or 4405 then everything should work fine. Can you get a picture of the extra wire/wires and that extra plug? on the older cases (like mine) they had a cable driven speedo which also had two wires going to it for the OBD-1 style VSS. But if you can get a picture of those wire/s plug then it should help to figure out what it is.
Any extra wires should not affect how it works because you used your shift motor which is still controlled by the same wires that were always there. As long as you have a 1354 and not the AWD 4404 or 4405 then everything should work fine. Can you get a picture of the extra wire/wires and that extra plug? on the older cases (like mine) they had a cable driven speedo which also had two wires going to it for the OBD-1 style VSS. But if you can get a picture of those wire/s plug then it should help to figure out what it is.
#93
I'll get some pics. Two of the wires sound like what you described. The other is a brown wire. ScottG posted a link about the brown wire. It sounds like this was a part of the active 4wd on some Explorers. The brown wire allows the vehicle to kick in and out of 4wd instantly to regain traction in bad weather.
#94
#95
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