How's it going everyone, my name is Scott and I'm new here. I wish I had joined the Ranger- Forums due to better circumstances but I'm thinking it'll end up being a good thing all-in-all! Well, down to business.... A couple nights ago, I jumped in my 03 Ranger 3.0L-FF 2WD w/AT to hit the store. I've been running with a trouble code since I got the truck a couple years back(not sure of the #, but it has a gutted thermostat from P.O. and when it's cool out it doesn't reach hot enough temp for the ECM to run in an 'open loop') without incident. I started her up and dropped it in Drive and it felt like it 'popped'(like when a standard pops out of gear kinda). Truck proceeded to 'protect' mode(rev-limiting and rough idle)... or so I thought. Not the case upon further investigation(I think)- whatever happened caused the O2 sensor preheat circuit to blow the fuse(power dist. box , slot#41) and now it pops a new one instantly or as soon as you put juice to that circuit(turn key to 'run' pos.). ECM/TCM is dropping 11 codes now, 10 are 'new'. 6 codes are tranny related- P1747, P0743, p0750,755,760 and 765. When truck is placed in any forward gear on the column selector, it seems as it's in the same gear(maybe 3rd or 4th?) no matter the selector position(be it D, 2 or 1) although Reverse seems 'normal'. The other 4 are engine related to the other, simultaneously occurring 'new' problem, which involves the O2 sensor preheat fuse blowing. This is causing the truck to run RICH to the point of stumbling/very rough idle and the exhaust smoking(unburned fuel). I let the truck 'warm up' for about 5-10 mins and it seems to run better after the sensors are heated(that's my guess anyways LOL). When I get home later today, I'll check out the VSS and check that ABS light is lit + anything I may have forgotten to detail. Thanks for reading my novel- Scott

 

Welcome to the forum Scott

Yes, P17XX or P07XX are transmission codes
Since you have already looked the codes up it would be great if you could post what each one was, saves others(me) the time of having to look each one up
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction

What were the engine codes?
Be specific

Here are the wiring diagrams for your transmission
Check Fuse 41 in engine fuse box, it powers all those solenoids

And because O2 sensor heaters are also effected I would look near exhaust system for burnt wires.

Replace that thermostats, ASAP, it is costing loads of money in MPG, and long term engine wear as well

 

Hey Ron- Thank you for your input/response! I will re-scan or pull codes off the scanner as soon as I get home from work and post the specifics. And yes, #41 20A is toast and instantly pops a new one. I will also check the harness(and inspect/clean/DE grease the plugs on the trans) and any related wiring also after I list remainder of TC's. Looked at top-side O2 sensors I could see and nothing evident but I'll re-check and 'feel' around on wiring to rule out a possible short/damage, etc. Thanks for the welcome and Ill be cerain to post the info requested ASAP!

 

So Fuse 41 is why trans isn't shifting and why you have all those codes, and it also powers O2 sensor heaters.

Should be a Light Blue/orange stripe wire from fuse 41 to O2 sensors and Transmission connector, it also powers the EVAP system solenoid and vent.

You can unplug Fuse 41, then turn on the key, use a Volt meter to see which terminal in the fuse holder has 12volts, thats the Power leg of the fuse.
So the other terminal is the Load leg, and it is the one with the short.
Turn off the key
Switch Volt Meter to OHMS
Ground one of the Meter's probes and put the other probe in that Load terminal, because there is a short to Ground you should see 0 ohms or a very low number.
Move wiring around and see if number changes, if there is a wiring short it usually will change a bit.
Now.......unplug each O2 sensor connector, there are 3, don't forget the one in the back behind the Cat converter, and its wire.
The rear O2 sensor has the longest wire so most chance of getting a short so i would start at that end and move forward.
If one of the O2s has an internal short then unplugging it's cable will cause OHM Meter number to go very high, high OHMs is no short.

Last be not least, unplug the transmission connector, you could have an internal short inside the trans, long shot be can happen