Ive searched this and everyone says torque to spec but what is the torq spec?
Im installing it today and i also wondered what kind of gear oil i should use its a 00 ranger and im doin the front pinion seal any help would be great thanks

 

i just did my rear seal the other day. i didnt torque it, i just tightened it until i thought it was good. it takes 80w-90 gear oil. im pretty sure the front take 4 pints.

 

Mke sure you torque it correctly. Ford didn't torque mine correctly so my pinion seal kept on leaking and now my diff is making a clunking sound.

 

thats what im trying to find out the torque specs.

 

If it's anything like my old XJ Cherokee, it's an insanely high torque number.....like 200ft/lb range! Sorry...can't help ya on the torque spec for our ap's. wtf...haynes has NOTHING in there about the pinion seal.

 

i believe the torque spec is 245 lb

 

yea i know haynes has nothing thats why i was asking on here :) i thought that was really weird

 

Between 200 and 250 ftlbs of torque. A torque wrench is not going to get it up there. You need and impact wrench. I don't care who you are you are not getting it torqued correctly without an impact wrench.

Mine is at about 180 ftlbs. I drive it as little as possible and I am waiting on an impact wrench before I wheel with it again.

 

haha....yea the chilton's says nothing about the pinion nut either. Don't even mention the pinion period. lol.

Bob Rwenzinger! Mr Ranger dictionary.

 

so how do you know if its torqued down properly with an impact?

 

The pinion nut affects backlash and pinion bearing preload settings so the torque spec will not always be consistent. When I did mine though I just impacted the hell out of it and haven't had any problems.

 

so pretty much just guess at it then lol

 

it really should be that tight? does the rear pinion seal have to be just as tight?

 

When I did my cherokee gear swap, I used an air impact as much as i can at home with my craftsman comp. Then went over to a friends shop that has an AWESOME air system and finished it up. I got it as tight as i could. No clue on the torque reading. lol.

 

I've always just used a 250ft/lb impact and hit it till it stopped moving for a couple of seconds. If you have it shimmed right, it has always worked for me.

 

ok well i think i have a good idea on the torque spec now lol. impact the **** out of it and call it a day, then cross your fingers and put it back together n hope n pray :)

 

the pinion nut torque specs are usually done in inch lbs. I believe the recommended setting for the 8.8 are between 18 and 25 inch lbs, but I'm not sure about the front. Its probably similar. And as stated by John if the gears have already been set and shimmed correctly then you'll probably be ok just throwing it back on.

If you get the nut too tight it will toast your pinion bearing, but no one is going to measure pinion depth, backlash, and bearing preloads to replace a pinion seal so it really is kind of a guessing game. Get it nice and tight and you'll be fine, but don't overdo it.

 

ok sounds like a plan :) prob jump on that tomorrow

 

My snap on torque wrench goes to 250ftlbs so yeah its possible.

 

the torque for a pinion nut is not consistent from vehicle to vehicle, you set it and then check the pe-load with a bar type torque wrench and adjust it accordingly.

easiest way to do it...
measure the depth of the nut on the stud with a vernier caliper, and mark on one of the flats of the nut and on the pinion flange, that way when you put it back together you can make the depth the same and put the nut back exactly where it was by the marks on the nut and the pinion flange....do not mark the nut and the pinion stud, when you back the nut off, it will remove the paint on the threads where you just marked it