re-gear/locker quick q - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 11-25-2006
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re-gear/locker quick q

few questions quickly..

1) im planning on re-gearing my rear diff, i heard that if i use Ford parts, ford racing im guessing? i dont need to shim them.. is that true or bull?

2)on the detroit lockers, on the 4WP website, they have 3 kinds, C-Lockers, Soft Locker, and a true trac. i know the True trac is basically a L/S...

but whats the TRUE locker? the C-Locker? if so whats a soft locker?

Thanks
-Matt
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2006
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you should have to shim still to get the coast and pull right
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Old 11-25-2006
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1. you most likely have to shim......it just depends on your backlash readings and pinion bearing preload....there is a certain range that it has to be in....here is some info on changing gears...

Backlash and Pinion bearing preload, along with bolt torque#'s....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...Axle_Setup.htm

gear install instructions....
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html

setting the backlash and preload in a 8.8....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...g_backlash.htm



2. you will need the C-locker.....it will be a true locker just the C-Locker means it works on c-clip axles........the true trac is nothing but a fancy limited slip......and the soft locker is a true locker, but it is quieter when it engages......Detroit dont make a soft locker for a Ford 8.8, so you will have to go with the C-Locker for your application....

different locker info....
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...erComparo.html
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Old 11-25-2006
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is the gear install something i can do in my driveway w/ the axle still bolted to my truck or is it gonna b a pain in the a$$ bc i have to drop it? nvm, ill read the links..

but one more q, and i may or may not find it on the other pages....
im taking a class for shts and giggles. its marine lower unit repair.. in there we learned how to shim the drive shafts, w/ both setups we used special gauges to measure the backlash... im guessing ill need to find those somewhere?
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Old 11-25-2006
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you can leave the axle in.....you have to remove the break drums and pull the axle out of each side.............if you have never done it, i would see if there is someone who has that can help you......it isn't for in-experenced to do by themselfs.....gears is something that can cost some serious money if they are not installed correctly........
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Old 11-25-2006
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It's a pain if you have to reshim the pinion because you have to press the bearing on and off to test and reshim it.

The alternative is to measure your current pinion bearing when you remove it, and your new one. You can then sand or grind a bit on the inner hole in your old bearing so it slips on and off the new pinion easily. Then you can shim to fit and substitute the shim pack with the new bearing (and add/remove shims if the bearings are different thicknesses) when you're done.

That's for pinion depth. For lash, the shims all go in the sides and it's not so bad because on an 8.8 the shims go on the OUTSIDE of the pressed on bearings fortunately.

Even with Ford parts, guys have found the pinion depth changes a bit on high ratio gearsets (4.56 and up).

You can do it under the truck. Yes, it will be a pain, lol -- but it's doable and saves quite a bit of green.

Here's my experiences with it. I had help with mine, but I've done others since.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6064
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Old 11-25-2006
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A haynes manual should be able to help you alot with the install. Pick one up if you don't have one already... best $20 I've spent in a long time!
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Old 11-25-2006
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You will need a dial indicator and holder. I have the Harbor Freight ones, which I believe are on sale right now.
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Old 11-25-2006
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i have a buddy that has regeared/helped people regear i think 3 mustangs w/ 8.8s


any brand reference? i know if i buy cheap or do it wrong ill b really screwed...
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Old 11-25-2006
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I used Yukon and they were fine...so far, lol. Did it about 2 years ago and it's been fine.
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Old 11-29-2006
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aight, ill probably go Ford Racing gears unless its excessivly priced... then get a detroit C-Locker
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Old 11-29-2006
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Are you not planning on doing the front at the same time?
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Fear
Are you not planning on doing the front at the same time?

I'm pretty sure he is, he has the front diff out already

(info from PMs...)
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
I'm pretty sure he is, he has the front diff out already

(info from PMs...)
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
I'm pretty sure he is, he has the front diff out already

(info from PMs...)
Thanks for your help with that too man, i didnt take off anything but the upper ball joint when i did it the second time. it just made wresling w/ the passenger CV joint a lil more "fun"

i got it back in.. had to go to class, 25 miles away, it didnt fall out haha... if i only get the rear gear for xmas, or if i can get money for the rear, ill do the rear only for now... i currently dont got wheeling much so it doesnt really matter... soon my truck will have A LOT of down time...

if i manage to get a locker, a winch and gears ill be pretty well set for a while..

over all, its a pain in the a$$ to get it out.. but atleast i know how and its not a huge pain. getting it in is the worst..
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Old 11-29-2006
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Ford Racing gears are usually pretty pricy! call 4 wheel parts.....i got mine front and rear with master install kits for $379 to my door!
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Old 11-29-2006
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what brand?

and ur still interested in that carrier right? after xmas ill let u know im crossing my fingers for a locker.. doubt ill get it though
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2006
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genuine gear.......

yup still interested in the limited slip...
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2006
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summit is cheaper, that is where i got mine. genuine gear and Yukon
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
genuine gear.......

yup still interested in the limited slip...

10-4 ill let u know after xmas, and i dont get it then, ill let u know when im clear of all my legal $hit and have the money
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  #21  
Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
It's a pain if you have to reshim the pinion because you have to press the bearing on and off to test and reshim it.

The alternative is to measure your current pinion bearing when you remove it, and your new one. You can then sand or grind a bit on the inner hole in your old bearing so it slips on and off the new pinion easily. Then you can shim to fit and substitute the shim pack with the new bearing (and add/remove shims if the bearings are different thicknesses) when you're done.

That's for pinion depth. For lash, the shims all go in the sides and it's not so bad because on an 8.8 the shims go on the OUTSIDE of the pressed on bearings fortunately.

Even with Ford parts, guys have found the pinion depth changes a bit on high ratio gearsets (4.56 and up).

You can do it under the truck. Yes, it will be a pain, lol -- but it's doable and saves quite a bit of green.

Here's my experiences with it. I had help with mine, but I've done others since.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6064


cant you put the shims behind the bearing.
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