Rear diff locker
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Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
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From: Auburn, AL
Rear diff locker
I have a 02' 4.0 4x2 Edge and want to be able to lock my rear axle. What are my different options depending on price, ease of installation, effectiveness, etc.?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
First figure out what you have by looking at the axle tag on the cover or the door tag under the axle code. From there we can figure out if you need to buy an open carrier or not.
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 586
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From: WI
I got the Richmond/Powertrax No-Slip.
Price~$380
Install~ Easy- 3hrs for a kid who didn't even know how to do brakes.
Effective~ 10/10
Streetability~ 7/10 corners smooth and quiet. But from a stop to making a immediate sharp turn under power it will scuff the inside tire. When ur driving along and you hit the gas u can feel that locker grab the road like a beach.
Traction bars help abunch with the handling issues.
The main dividing line on lockers is the cornering ability. You can get a Lock Right for $300 but they make alot of noise ... clicking and popping around corners. Manual lockers are the way to go if ya got $850 layin around. Auburn ECT is the better one.
Price~$380
Install~ Easy- 3hrs for a kid who didn't even know how to do brakes.
Effective~ 10/10
Streetability~ 7/10 corners smooth and quiet. But from a stop to making a immediate sharp turn under power it will scuff the inside tire. When ur driving along and you hit the gas u can feel that locker grab the road like a beach.
Traction bars help abunch with the handling issues.
The main dividing line on lockers is the cornering ability. You can get a Lock Right for $300 but they make alot of noise ... clicking and popping around corners. Manual lockers are the way to go if ya got $850 layin around. Auburn ECT is the better one.
I have an ARB. they discontinued it for the 28spline 8.8 though, i just got one that was in stock. It took two days two install because I didn't have shims at the time. The ARB is expensive too, especially if you don't already have oba.
That's news to me. Sucks for the 28 spline guys. If I were to get a locker I would get a 31 spline axle first.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Auburn, AL
The stock l/s in my truck is wearing out. I can go around a corner and smash on the gas and it will one tire fire all day. But if I launch hard from a stop it will spin both tires.
no to ARB
no to Eaton
probably no to Auburn..
those are all for 31 spline axles last time i checked.
you don't need on board air for an ARB, hell i would recommend AGAINST it! thats just more hoses/wires/relays/fuses/switches to go wrong, hell the compressor itself can go out..
my buddy ran his off a 7 gallon air tank, then borrowed my power tank and it worked just fine.
no to Eaton
probably no to Auburn..
those are all for 31 spline axles last time i checked.
you don't need on board air for an ARB, hell i would recommend AGAINST it! thats just more hoses/wires/relays/fuses/switches to go wrong, hell the compressor itself can go out..
my buddy ran his off a 7 gallon air tank, then borrowed my power tank and it worked just fine.
Eaton Elocker, Auburn ECTED (glorified limited slip) are your options for 28 spline lockers.....I hdd the Elocker, loved it.
I had the No Slip before the Elocker, also loved that thing but selectable is better....more $$$ though.
I had the No Slip before the Elocker, also loved that thing but selectable is better....more $$$ though.
you don't need on board air for an ARB, hell i would recommend AGAINST it! thats just more hoses/wires/relays/fuses/switches to go wrong, hell the compressor itself can go out..
my buddy ran his off a 7 gallon air tank, then borrowed my power tank and it worked just fine.
my buddy ran his off a 7 gallon air tank, then borrowed my power tank and it worked just fine.
yea, when i posted that i hadn't refreshed the page in a few hours.. then i hit post and there were like 6 new posts lol.
i just like stuff being as simple as it can be.. wires, relays, fuses, switches etc are just more things to malfunction. Doing it with an air tank you have have 2 valves.
i just like stuff being as simple as it can be.. wires, relays, fuses, switches etc are just more things to malfunction. Doing it with an air tank you have have 2 valves.
I like having things simple as well, but more than once I had wished I had a compressor. Usually it is when I get a little horn happy on the way to the trails, they tend to use a lot of my air.
That is partially true. It's not that bad when cornering. I considered the No-Slip but I decided against it. More $$$ and more parts. If a little bit of clicking and occasional popping when making a corner is that big of a deal I don't think a locker is for you. Maybe an expensive selectable locker would suit you best. For $300, the results are outstanding! The extra $$ for the no-slip is to make it more corner friendly, both work fine I don't see the need to spend the extra money.
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ECTED is ok, but the clutch packs eventually wear out and then you have to pull it out and send it back to Auburn Gear. They (ECTED) are pretty darn cool though because they allow you to go from LS to full locker w/ the flick of a switch. And, as soon as you call Auburn and tell them that you're sending a unit back to em, they send you a new one out for somewhere in the ballpark of $200 (w/shipping). I've got to admit that their customer service is right on. But, that being said, I am currently going from an ECTED to a No-Slip, simply because the unit (ECTED) has its flaws. It does tend to unlock when under WOT and loss of traction. The electricals are also tempermental and if idiots play with the switch(as did the stevedores who loaded my rig onto a Matson container to ship) they will fry the whole coil system (runs about $150 to replace). My opinion, No-Slip or Lockright because they're cheap, they're strong and they provide as little hassle as possible.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: BC
I have a Detroit Truetrac, made by Eaton. Its gear driven so unlike the trac loc it doesn't wear out clutches or need oil additive. It is also transparent on the street, you don't know its there but mine just doesn't do the 1 wheel spin on wet pavement anymore and when I'm on a gravel road I get two rooster tails when I gun it. They didn't have the No Slip for a 7.5 or I might have got it because its cheaper and I could have installed myself. But that said I'm glad I spent the money because I can just forget its back there until I need it.
There is a model for a 28 spline 8.8 (and here is an example).
Here4's a professional review:
There is a model for a 28 spline 8.8 (and here is an example).
Here4's a professional review:
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 356
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From: Ganado, TX
The TruTrac is nice, don't get me wrong. The problem is it's not a locking differential.
I went the limited slip route when I upgraded over my factory open differential. I went with the Auburn Limited Slip. It was nice when it was new, chirped tires on pavement, but even then it would unload in tough terrain. Limited slips unload and do the one-tire-fire thing when you need 'em to hook up most. Unload a tire (heck not even to the point it's off the ground), and you're limited slip will feel more like an UN-Limited Slip.
I'm in the process of pulling my old Auburn out and putting my open carrier back in. Maybe to be freshened up with a Loc-Rite soon.
To the OP-
The best answer to your question is a Loc-Rite/Aussie drop in locker.
These are the most "effective" for the lowest cost. No more one wheel peel, ever!
They're even easy to install. You won't have to pull the R&P.
I went the limited slip route when I upgraded over my factory open differential. I went with the Auburn Limited Slip. It was nice when it was new, chirped tires on pavement, but even then it would unload in tough terrain. Limited slips unload and do the one-tire-fire thing when you need 'em to hook up most. Unload a tire (heck not even to the point it's off the ground), and you're limited slip will feel more like an UN-Limited Slip.
I'm in the process of pulling my old Auburn out and putting my open carrier back in. Maybe to be freshened up with a Loc-Rite soon.
To the OP-
The best answer to your question is a Loc-Rite/Aussie drop in locker.
These are the most "effective" for the lowest cost. No more one wheel peel, ever!
They're even easy to install. You won't have to pull the R&P.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: BC
Depends what you want. If my truck was being used primarily in the bush I'd go with a locker. But since mine lives mostly on these drizzly Northwest streets and highways I enjoy the better manners of a LS. Auto companies only put LS's in as options because they're easy to operate, don't chatter, and don't chirp the tires like full lockers.
The auburn, while a huge improvement over the trac loc, is still a clutch driven LS and those clutches wear out and need replacement--no easy task. Not sure how the gear driven ones actually work, but from what I've read they're robust, long lived, and engage when you need it. They (Torsen) came stock on some Ranger FX4 level 2s and Hummers.
At any rate all the diff options are potentially good depending on what you want and how much you want to spend. And lots of reviews of each on this forum and online if you're interested.
The auburn, while a huge improvement over the trac loc, is still a clutch driven LS and those clutches wear out and need replacement--no easy task. Not sure how the gear driven ones actually work, but from what I've read they're robust, long lived, and engage when you need it. They (Torsen) came stock on some Ranger FX4 level 2s and Hummers.
At any rate all the diff options are potentially good depending on what you want and how much you want to spend. And lots of reviews of each on this forum and online if you're interested.
Last edited by 07B2300; Nov 20, 2008 at 07:30 PM.
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