Was wondering if anyone had any info on this. I have a leaking/failed rear main that needs to be replaced. My truck is an 03 4x4 with a body lift and superlift. Has anyone been able to drop the trans w/out removing the rear cross member (w/ a body lift)? Also had a question about the shift linkage and how that comes uncoupled. Thanks.

 

Not sure about the linkage.

Drop the trans cross member its a real pain if you dont.

I had to use about 3 feet of extensions and ratcheting box ends to get the trans out. You may have more room with a body lift.

Just a heads up. Also use a trans jack, not floor jack.

 

As for the linkage just unbolt the nut on the selector arm on the trans and wiggle the arm off. Its really simple. But you have to take the forward bracket off the trans also as it holds the shift cable. Its a total of one nut and two bolts. All of which are 14mm IIRC

 

I have almost everything out, the trans is next. Checked the output shaft play and was wondering if anyone knew what would be considered excessive. Prior to disassembly, I did a road test and determined that the TC Clutch is the cause and therefore will be replacing the TC. Would anyone have any suggestions regarding a TC? I'm not looking for anything with a high stall and would prefer the stock stall speed, but the OEM Part is going to run $700 from the dealership; no can do.

Been thinking about a full rebuild too. Have buddy that is trained and ASE Certified, and will do it for $500+parts. When I dropped the pan, fluid color was normal, no burnt fluid just normal clutch residue.No pieces of broken metal, etc. I have diligently changed fluid, with Lucas Additive every 15 to 20k. Last fluid change was at 105k, truck now has 120k. O/D Light was flashing on and off. Slipping was encountered at higher speeds (above 70mph) twice, and out of 1st gear, once. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

There is a few on evil bay or a various shops round the net. The stock stall is around 2500 believe it or not.



https://www.google.com/search?q=5r55...=1920&bih=1049

 

Trans doesn't need a rebuild according to ASE Tech. Torque converter rebuild cost me almost $300 on Oahu. Have a question about the gasket between the trans and t-case. My gasket disintegrated when I separated the trans from the t-case. Dealership wants almost $100 for a cardboard gasket. Does anyone know where I could get this item for a whole lot cheaper? Also, looking for an oil filter to block gasket since mine is leaking. Who sells this? This part is on back order from the local dealership, if I were to order it. Thanks

blhde, thanks for all the input. It has helped.

 

I would use black rtv on it if the cardboard one is really bad, that price is just stupid.

The block to oil filter adapter looks to be an o-ring and cheap at that.

2003 FORD RANGER Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring

 

Went to a second dealership, in fact the place where I purchased the truck from, and got the gasket for $6.58. Trans went back in with some challenges. As blhde recommended, drop the cross member when you drop the transmission. Because of the SL, and the fact that I would have to drop the t-bars and the mounts, and realign the vehicle, I decided not too. Because of the bodylift, I was able to get the trans out, without the torque converter, through the back. It took some manuvering, but it only took me an extra 10 mins or so to do this and wasn't that much of a pain to put back in. I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you can handle the weight of the trans, which I can/did. What also helped in this case was using two ratchet straps as slings to support the trans, when it was put back in. Both were tied up around the frame rails and cradled the trans, which allowed me to align it by pressing it and by using a transjack. The pain in the *** was aligning the torque converter studs with the gaps in the flywheel. That probably was the most challenging. That took 20 mins or so to do. Hopefully, she's up an running by the end or today. Thanks bldhe for the input.

 

Vehicle is finished. Trans shifts strong w/out slippage. Just need to complete a band adjustment and I should be all finished. The TCC code 0741 typically is the result of a failing torque converter clutch and/or the torque converter solenoid. I replaced both, due to the failure/wear of both. No problems to note as of yet.