SAS Guys: What did you do for a front driveshaft? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-14-2008
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
SAS Guys: What did you do for a front driveshaft?

Title says it all.

StaggeringGenius (Adam) just PM'd me about what I did -- but I haven't done anything with it yet myself but need to.

I'm particulary interested in those who did Dana 44's in front and used a stock t-case. Like for instance:

1. What driveshaft did you use to start?
2. How did you modify it if you did? What did you need to buy?
3. What u-joints did you use at each end?
4. What length was it collapsed and extended (if you know)?

Any pics would be considered helpful also. It's very hard to wade through the SAS project logs and the search feature doesn't take you to specific pages. We'd appreciate any posts in this "specialty" SAS topic, thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-14-2008
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
most are using the '97 or older BW1354 driveshaft and then having it lengthened.....the only modification to the axle end would be making the larger u-joint fit (i dont think the Dana 44 u-joint is all that much larger than the Dana 35 TTB's).....

you shouldn't have to have the front driveshaft lengthened unless you are running excessive amounts of lift with the SAS....
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-14-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
I used a driveshaft from a 96 Jeep XJ and had it shortened. my shaft will work fine with the D44 yoke, just need to change the Ujoint over.

I measured for my shaft and i only needed 4 inches of travel in the driveshaft and i have like 12" of droop in the front. the stock travel in the shaft was fine.

i then used one of these adapters from the t-case. made by neapco and i have posted the part number before just need to find it again.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-14-2008
Staggering_Genius's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 29
Sweeeeeet.

For the 9" im usin in the rear I'll be running a 1330-1350 U joint conversion. I've gotta double check the sizes, but I'm pretty sure those are right.

I'm figureing a stock driveshaft could be used for most apps. A friend told me to invest in a set of F150 axles and have them lengthened accordingly and balenced by a good shop.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-14-2008
EdGe_wannabe's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
Posts: 4,306
I'm going to hopefully getting something similar made next week. (Jey's truck)

Name:  55bacfcb.jpg
Views: 17
Size:  25.9 KB

Name:  9b459ed6.jpg
Views: 20
Size:  25.9 KB

Name:  6e39f51f.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  36.8 KB

Brenton
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-14-2008
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staggering_Genius View Post
Sweeeeeet.

For the 9" im usin in the rear I'll be running a 1330-1350 U joint conversion. I've gotta double check the sizes, but I'm pretty sure those are right.

I'm figureing a stock driveshaft could be used for most apps. A friend told me to invest in a set of F150 axles and have them lengthened accordingly and balenced by a good shop.
we're talking front shaft here.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-14-2008
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdGe_wannabe View Post
I'm going to hopefully getting something similar made next week. (Jey's truck)







Brenton
i would suggest to put the splines closer to the t-case.....that way if you slap a rock with the lower part of the shaft, it will not screw a spline up...
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-14-2008
EdGe_wannabe's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
Posts: 4,306
I live in nothing but flat land. lol Mud is the only thing we have here, so I should have no issuses with rocks.

Brenton
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-14-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
i would suggest to put the splines closer to the t-case.....that way if you slap a rock with the lower part of the shaft, it will not screw a spline up...
bah it should be fine. it would take alot to mess them up. leaf spring guys axles must run in a much different travel than mine. i dont need much travel in the shaft.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-14-2008
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North GA
Posts: 590
I've got a stock from D-shaft.... Nothing special to it...
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-14-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staggering_Genius View Post
Sweeeeeet.

For the 9" im usin in the rear I'll be running a 1330-1350 U joint conversion. I've gotta double check the sizes, but I'm pretty sure those are right.

I'm figureing a stock driveshaft could be used for most apps. A friend told me to invest in a set of F150 axles and have them lengthened accordingly and balenced by a good shop.
where did you find these numbers for the Ujoints?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-14-2008
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
If your radius arm or rear leaf spring mount is about where the t-case output is, you need very little change in length.

If the arc and length of the radius arms (in the coil spring case) is close to the arc of the driveshaft as the front cycles, then very little length change is needed.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-14-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
If your radius arm or rear leaf spring mount is about where the t-case output is, you need very little change in length.

If the arc and length of the radius arms (in the coil spring case) is close to the arc of the driveshaft as the front cycles, then very little length change is needed.
yep, mine only changed an 1" in this attempt to get measurements

Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-14-2008
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
next time i drive my truck to work, i am gonna fork lift flex it....
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-14-2008
redranger4.0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Firey depths
Posts: 15
When ever I get to the point of making a front Dshaft, Im going to make a square tube shaft.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 02-14-2008
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0 View Post
When ever I get to the point of making a front Dshaft, Im going to make a square tube shaft.
can you specify why what is the advantage of it over a round drive shaft? or is it that you already have the square tubing?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-14-2008
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
Here's a good topic and on page 3 or around there is information on the Neapco part numbers. They're actually mentioned 3 times. Obsolete and current part numbers.

Zach showed a nice pic of his flange adaptor, and there's information in the topic on what we're talking about.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=40605
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-14-2008
Roach2004's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,320
A square driveshaft cuts out the splines so it will always spin. You know instead of breaking the splines and it just spinning
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-14-2008
redranger4.0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Firey depths
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
can you specify why what is the advantage of it over a round drive shaft? or is it that you already have the square tubing?
Its one giant slip yoke. all you need is two peices of square. 2.5" .25" wall flashout tubing and 2" .25" wall flash in tubing. The 2" fits inside the 2.5" and you then put what ever yoke you need on each end. My front pinion has a 1350 UJoint and my Tcase is what ever CV the old 1354 Manuals use. The thick wall square Tubing is Extremely strong.

Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-14-2008
Staggering_Genius's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
where did you find these numbers for the Ujoints?
I was over on FSB.com and a guy told me he had swapped a 9" into a 93 ranger. Those were the numbers he gave me. I'm not sure if we had same apps but it's something to work off of
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 02-14-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staggering_Genius View Post
I was over on FSB.com and a guy told me he had swapped a 9" into a 93 ranger. Those were the numbers he gave me. I'm not sure if we had same apps but it's something to work off of


oh ok. i would love to find a chart or how to find this out. ive got a D60 and D44 hoping to convert the Ujoints lol
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 02-14-2008
Roach2004's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0 View Post
I had squared driveshafts on my zuki that could extend like 6 inchs
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 02-14-2008
EdGe_wannabe's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
Posts: 4,306
Would this give you a 'harsh' ride while in 4WD with the square tubing?

Brenton
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 02-14-2008
99ranger4x4's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12,198
it all depends how the trucks gonna be used i guess.. if your one of the people using 4x4 at 70 onthe highway, you may want to think twice about using a square one.. but trail ***** and trucks where 4x4 will only be used on the trail i dont see a problem with a square one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EdGe_wannabe View Post
Would this give you a 'harsh' ride while in 4WD with the square tubing?

Brenton
depends how you make it.. my friend says he cant feel his when its put together right.. but you can lay the whole truck down on the drive shaft and it'll only eat away at the rock or destroy the t-case before the drive shaft goes lol


i have seen a yoda with dual square drive shafts and it wobbled pretty good at only like 15 on a trail lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0 View Post
When ever I get to the point of making a front Dshaft, Im going to make a square tube shaft.
good choice! lol
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 02-14-2008
redranger4.0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Firey depths
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdGe_wannabe View Post
Would this give you a 'harsh' ride while in 4WD with the square tubing?

Brenton
It will but with a truck such as mine Im not concerned about it. I just dont have the cash to shell out for two "nice" driveshafts.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Want to Trade: My Aluminum Driveshaft for your Steel Driveshaft - WA wellcom2knoxvile Engine & Drivetrain 2 08-23-2010 08:17 AM
did you see what i just did there? SVT01RANGER Snapshots 17 04-30-2010 11:30 AM
SAS front driveshaft dangeranger01 Drivetrain Tech 8 02-09-2009 01:34 PM
where did you get you shift extension? BL howells Suspension Tech 3 12-28-2008 02:26 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:27 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.