Title says it all.

StaggeringGenius (Adam) just PM'd me about what I did -- but I haven't done anything with it yet myself but need to.

I'm particulary interested in those who did Dana 44's in front and used a stock t-case. Like for instance:

1. What driveshaft did you use to start?
2. How did you modify it if you did? What did you need to buy?
3. What u-joints did you use at each end?
4. What length was it collapsed and extended (if you know)?

Any pics would be considered helpful also. It's very hard to wade through the SAS project logs and the search feature doesn't take you to specific pages. We'd appreciate any posts in this "specialty" SAS topic, thanks.

 

most are using the '97 or older BW1354 driveshaft and then having it lengthened.....the only modification to the axle end would be making the larger u-joint fit (i dont think the Dana 44 u-joint is all that much larger than the Dana 35 TTB's).....

you shouldn't have to have the front driveshaft lengthened unless you are running excessive amounts of lift with the SAS....

 

I used a driveshaft from a 96 Jeep XJ and had it shortened. my shaft will work fine with the D44 yoke, just need to change the Ujoint over.

I measured for my shaft and i only needed 4 inches of travel in the driveshaft and i have like 12" of droop in the front. the stock travel in the shaft was fine.

i then used one of these adapters from the t-case. made by neapco and i have posted the part number before just need to find it again.

 

Sweeeeeet.

For the 9" im usin in the rear I'll be running a 1330-1350 U joint conversion. I've gotta double check the sizes, but I'm pretty sure those are right.

I'm figureing a stock driveshaft could be used for most apps. A friend told me to invest in a set of F150 axles and have them lengthened accordingly and balenced by a good shop.

 

I'm going to hopefully getting something similar made next week. (Jey's truck)







Brenton

 

we're talking front shaft here.

 

i would suggest to put the splines closer to the t-case.....that way if you slap a rock with the lower part of the shaft, it will not screw a spline up...

 

I live in nothing but flat land. lol Mud is the only thing we have here, so I should have no issuses with rocks.

Brenton

 

bah it should be fine. it would take alot to mess them up. leaf spring guys axles must run in a much different travel than mine. i dont need much travel in the shaft.

 

I've got a stock from D-shaft.... Nothing special to it...

 

where did you find these numbers for the Ujoints?

 

If your radius arm or rear leaf spring mount is about where the t-case output is, you need very little change in length.

If the arc and length of the radius arms (in the coil spring case) is close to the arc of the driveshaft as the front cycles, then very little length change is needed.

 

yep, mine only changed an 1" in this attempt to get measurements

 

next time i drive my truck to work, i am gonna fork lift flex it....

 

When ever I get to the point of making a front Dshaft, Im going to make a square tube shaft.

 

can you specify why what is the advantage of it over a round drive shaft? or is it that you already have the square tubing?

 

Here's a good topic and on page 3 or around there is information on the Neapco part numbers. They're actually mentioned 3 times. Obsolete and current part numbers.

Zach showed a nice pic of his flange adaptor, and there's information in the topic on what we're talking about.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=40605

 

A square driveshaft cuts out the splines so it will always spin. You know instead of breaking the splines and it just spinning

 

Its one giant slip yoke. all you need is two peices of square. 2.5" .25" wall flashout tubing and 2" .25" wall flash in tubing. The 2" fits inside the 2.5" and you then put what ever yoke you need on each end. My front pinion has a 1350 UJoint and my Tcase is what ever CV the old 1354 Manuals use. The thick wall square Tubing is Extremely strong.

 

I was over on FSB.com and a guy told me he had swapped a 9" into a 93 ranger. Those were the numbers he gave me. I'm not sure if we had same apps but it's something to work off of

 

oh ok. i would love to find a chart or how to find this out. ive got a D60 and D44 hoping to convert the Ujoints lol

 

I had squared driveshafts on my zuki that could extend like 6 inchs

 

Would this give you a 'harsh' ride while in 4WD with the square tubing?

Brenton

 

it all depends how the trucks gonna be used i guess.. if your one of the people using 4x4 at 70 onthe highway, you may want to think twice about using a square one.. but trail ***** and trucks where 4x4 will only be used on the trail i dont see a problem with a square one.

depends how you make it.. my friend says he cant feel his when its put together right.. but you can lay the whole truck down on the drive shaft and it'll only eat away at the rock or destroy the t-case before the drive shaft goes lol


i have seen a yoda with dual square drive shafts and it wobbled pretty good at only like 15 on a trail lol

good choice! lol

 

It will but with a truck such as mine Im not concerned about it. I just dont have the cash to shell out for two "nice" driveshafts.